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thor5624

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I just got some steels for making knives: 1075, 1095 and 1080. I have a dual burner forge on the way and a 2x48 belt sander. I have heard different things about quenching your knives. Is it better to use warm peanut oil, canola or water to quench the steels I have?
 
thor5624 said:
I just got some steels for making knives: 1075, 1095 and 1080. I have a dual burner forge on the way and a 2x48 belt sander. I have heard different things about quenching your knives. Is it better to use warm peanut oil, canola or water to quench the steels I have?
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General Knife Maker's Discussion
 
Check the "Sticky" at the top of this section for answers to Heat Treating....I agree that "Parks 50" is the best quench medium for the steels you specified. All of those oils you mentioned are TO SLOW you need a FAST quench, and Water although it's Fast it will likely Crack your Blades.
 
Isn't the canola oil warmed up to 60°c agreed upon as the best method for simple carbon steels (c < 0.85%) if parks 50 is not available? 1095 is another pair of shoes, but I remember watching a yt demonstration by an experienced knife maker showing a water quench and stating a good (interupted?) water quench followed by immediate tempering won't crack a blade? Stickies are a must and there is at least 50 topics on the forum (google search adding "bladeforum") might give more accurate results.

Salt the water!?
 
FredyCro said:
Isn't the canola oil warmed up to 60°c agreed upon as the best method for simple carbon steels (c < 0.85%) if parks 50 is not available? 1095 is another pair of shoes, but I remember watching a yt demonstration by an experienced knife maker showing a water quench and stating a good (interupted?) water quench followed by immediate tempering won't crack a blade? Stickies are a must and there is at least 50 topics on the forum (google search adding "bladeforum") might give more accurate results.

Salt the water!?
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Certainly "Brine" is an option, but again it's still as Sketchy as Plain Water...I've watched first hand a few Brine quenched blades Crack and the sound is a very distinct "PING"....
 
Thank you fellas for your input. I will look into Park's 50. Anything cheaper? I've seen videos of peanut and canola warmed to 130 degrees Fahrenheit.
 
My forge and belt sander arrive next week. According to Walter Sorrells I have to clean off the scale on my steel from the mill. Is it best to soak in vinegar then scrub with a wire brush or just use the belt sander softly?
 
Not to come off harsh, but you need to spend a couple weeks looking at the stickies for beginners at the top of this page. Then come back with any questions that need answers. I don't mean to sound harsh but I spent a year reading stickies and old posts from multiple knife building forums before I asked the first question. Just saying .
 
thor5624 said:
I just got some steels for making knives: 1075, 1095 and 1080. I have a dual burner forge on the way and a 2x48 belt sander. I have heard different things about quenching your knives. Is it better to use warm peanut oil, canola or water to quench the steels I have?
Click to expand...

1075/1080 CAN be quenched in heated canola oil. 1095 needs parks 50 or DT48. 1075/1080 work better with fast oil, but they will harden in heated canola.
 
I used heated canola for a number of 1095 blades before getting some parks. It’ll work, just not as well.
 
Maxim Oil Co. is located in Fort Worth Texas which is like your "Neighborhood". 5 gallons of P-50 will last you forever...after 100 blades just filter it through some cheese cloth to get rid of the big chunks. It won't go Rancid like Canola/Peanut/Vege oils and you don't have to worry about how to heat it. You have to call to get pricing.
 
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