New to knives, trying to figure out ideal steel

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Oct 3, 2013
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I dont mean to open a can of worms here, but simply put I'm looking for recommendations on specific steels for blades.

Alright, so my current every day carry knife is a Gerber Instant. I know it's a 35 dollar knife and that most performance knives are much higher than that but we all have to start somewhere right? I initially bought it not thinking I'd use it this much. but I've been surprised by how much I actually use it which is partially why I'm looking to move up. I dont know how much most people use their knives, but I use mine A LOT. I use it at work to cut through zip ties and boxes. I take it camping where I usually start sharpening wood and what not out of boredom as well as food preparation. I use it to cut 16 gauge and thinner wire, plastics, all sorts of things. I know there are wire cutters, and specialty tools but who feels like walking to get it when your knife can do the job?

Like I said, I use my knife a lot for all sorts of things, and I think I did a good job hitting the main things that I think put the most amount of wear. Cutting through plastics is probably one of the most frequent things I do that that in my opinion takes a burden on the edge. And I am talking about think plastic, about 1/4 inch. Now the gerber is serated which is nice for when the blade goes dull, and this is where my issue lays. The blade goes dull relatively quickly. I dont have high end sharpening stones or anything, but from just messing around I've learned my way around steel sharpening rods and I can put a great edge on this thing. Good enough where I can shave my arm and leg with it.

I've been reading on the different steel alloys and there is waaay to much information for me to understand. I've done a lot of reading on the science of adding different elements, and how they effect the steel and I think that is really cool stuff, especially as a physics major. I will definitely be reading more on it, but being as thorough as I am I'm not sure I can read about each specific alloy. I know my ideal blade will be a high chromium based alloy since the blade will be getting a heavy dose of the elements(dirt, water, etc). Given the things I've said whats a good alloy to choose from? The gerber is something I cant recall at the moment but the consensus on the internet has been that its very similar to, and pretty much is a 440A equivalent. From the googling and browsing around on the forums that I've done it seems like S30V is pretty common alloy that is praised. Along with the BG42 though this seems to be more rare these days.

Like I said, I'm just looking for alloy recommendations mostly, but if anyone wants to give a specific knife recommendation I just wanted to make it clear that I wasnt looking for anything "tactical" or all black. I think it's stupid but at times I felt like I was getting unneeded attention because of the gerbers all black look . So thats something for me to consider. Also ambidextrous is a huge plus for a lefty like my self.
 
S30V is a good bet. It will hold an edge way past the Gerber mystery steel. The PM2 by Spyderco would be a good one and you can buy them in blue or even orange to make it less tacticool. The Griptilian in 154CM would even be a great step up from the Gerber.
 
Depending on budget there are several decent options. S30v, 154cm or Cpm154, or s35vn would all do well I would think. If you don't mind a carbon steel D2 may even be an option. As was stated a griptilian in 154cm would be a good budget choice, as would an s30v paramilitary. If you are looking at hard use you could also look into the Zero Tolerance knives. Very tough and great warranty, and an 0200 or 0350 won't break the bank. Kershaw guy also sells blemished ones that are fully functional with just minor cosmetic flaws at great reduced prices.
 
Alot depends on budget. Most of the steels already mentioned can be optained in knives uner $100 from very reputable manufacturers. I will highlight some gateway knives that can get you started on better steels from benchmade/spyderco/buck/ZT/Kershaw and won't jump up in price too too much. Once you break the $100 barrier the sky's the limit, but idk where your budget is right now.

Benchmade:
Griptilian/mini grip (154cm)
Barrage/mini (154cm)
axis Bone Collector/mini (D2)

Spyderco:
Delica/Endura (VG10)
Sage 1 (S30V)
Native frn (S30V)

Buck Vantage Pro (S30V)

Kershaw Blur S30V

ZT 350 (S30V)
ZT 200 (154cm) big knife
 
My favorite steels are as follows:

Cheap AUS-8
Mid range 440C
High end 154CM
Super steel M390
 
All the modern steels are very good. Are you good at freehand sharpening knives? If not I would go to a home depot and pick up a two sided stone course and medium and a Sharpmarker or Lansky 4 Rod Crock Stick box for your sharpening needs. All the steels will invariably get dull and need sharpening so don't neglect that. For something serrated they sell a special serrated rod file to individually sharpen up your serrations. Lansky also makes a "dog bone" multi sharpener that allows you to touch up serrations and a flat side for plain edge. I just ordered one myself.
 
I have knives in 9 different steels. Lately, CPM M4 is one of my top choices for a hard working knife. I've used it to slice through HDPE sheets that were over 5/16" thick.
 
So the kershaw piston and knock back have caught my eyes. I like its simple design. They do however use 14C28N which from research seems to be a steel made specifically for them. It seems like people compare it to the s30v. Although the 14C28N loses its edge a little easier but is easier to sharpen. Is there any reason as to why kershaw didn't just go with the s30v on this knife?
 
My standard recommendation for new folks is for them to find a design you like made by one of the top production houses and let the production house choose an appropriate alloy. They choose knife alloys for a living.

There are so many alloys which will work just fine as a knife blade. I'm a steel junky myself, but I'm the first to say that too much attention is paid to a single design parameter, when there are so many other more important parameters that make a good knife.

Top knife companies include, but are not limited to:
Benchmade
Spyderco
Kershaw
 
Sooner or later they all get dull, learn how to sharpen. Just sayin.

what he said

that , and dont overlook plain old 1095 hi carbon .. or L6 like used in Svord folders .
Just have to learn to keep em clean and oiled tho .

whatever you get you will eventually have to sharpen it .
 
There's a lot to be said for easy to sharpen steels with high toughness. If you don't have proper sharpening equipment then don't bother with high wear resistance alloys. Pick a steel you can reliably sharpen and start there. You can learn what you like as you progress in the hobby. Your tastes will change over time. A lot of people really like Buck's 420HC. It's easy to sharpen, corrosion resistant, and should be decently tough for your tasks. S30V is a good all around steel, but it'll be much harder to sharpen than what you're used to.
 
S30V is a good all-around choice. CPM M4 is another.
I'd recommend the Spyderco Gayle Bradley in M4 as a darned good heavy-duty knife.
In S30V, a Spyderco ParaMilitary 2, which is a favorite of many knife-guys and girls.
Either one can be had for not much more than $100, particularly if you watch the Exchange here, which is where I buy the great majority of my folders.
...and Physics Majors? Yeah, man. Great choice.
 
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One of my favorite work knives (also good at EDC) is the Benchmade Griptilian 550hg. The thumb hole is easy to open or flick open, the axis lock is 100% ambidextrous, 154cm steel, and personally, I like the blade shape and find it useful.

Now, if you don't like the thumb hole, or blade shape, look at the Griptilian 551.
 
Sounds like you use your knives pretty hard so you will want a steel with good toughness as well as good wear resistance. I think D2 would be a good choice. The Benchmade 710 would be a good hard use work knife in D2 that doesn't cost a fortune.
 
Here's my opinion; buy a spyderco endura full flat grind in the color of your choice, a combination 1000/6000 grit Japanese waterstone, a leather strop, and chromium oxide stop compound. The VG10 is a great steel, and the stones and strop will keep that edge hair popping scary sharp. I would also lube the blade with mineral oil you find in the pharmacy b/c it won't get you sick like other lubes like wd40 if you cut food. All together you can buy these things online for less than 150 bucks shipped. And remember, think twice, cut once.

edit - I just want to add that I highly recommend getting a strop. When I discovered stropping it took my sharpening to the next level. And don't forget, think twice, cut once.
 
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First, welcome to the forums! Second, in regards to 14C28N, it's a very good steel. I'd say its close to 440C or VG-10 in terms of edge retention and toughness and it is also nicely stain resistant and easy enough to sharpen to make it a very good choice. I wouldn't quite compare it to S30V's edge retention, but the advantage is that it takes a very keen edge very easily.
 
My standard recommendation for new folks is for them to find a design you like made by one of the top production houses and let the production house choose an appropriate alloy. They choose knife alloys for a living.

First...welcome.

Second....he's right.

Bottom line is this. If one is new to knives, like you say you are, and one buys a S30V knife and by whatever course of events that knife has, in fact, an AUs-8 blade on it...guess what?

One is not going to know the difference at this point in their "knife journey."

Get a knife built with blade shape, blade geopmetry, and ergos for what you want it to do (which is really what you should be asking about), from a major manufacturer (like the ones knarfeng suggested) and you will be golden.
 
S30V is a good all round steel. 154 CPM is also a good all round steel. These are hard, but not too hard to sharpen easily. You can get a BM Ritter mini-Grip in S30V (GPKnives) or any of the Emersons in 154 steel.
 
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