New (to me) sharpening method

ferguson

ferguson

Joined
Feb 21, 2001
Messages
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Steeling and leather stropping have been promoted as the best way to sharpen our Khuks without removing a lot of steel. Looking through the knifemakers catalogs on the net I found a set of 2 sharpening wheels to go on a grinder. I bought a set and love them. The wheels are made of compressed cardboard. One has 240 grit abrasive glued to it. It is for rough grinding and should be used sparingly if at all. You can remove a lot of metal in a hurry. The other however is used by rubbing white polishing compound on it. It is like stropping and will give an incredibly polished edge. It's like stropping for 30 minutes in just 30 seconds. They are sold by Koval's , Texas Knifemakers Supply , and Jantz .
Kovals has 6" and 8". The others have 8".
As with all power tools, BE CAREFUL. Spinning wheels at 3600 rpm and sharp steel can make for deadly accidents. But if you are careful you can put a shaving sharp edge that will also stand up to heavy chopping.
I have no affiliation with any of these stores and as always your mileage may vary.
See ya,
Steve:)
 
Thanks for the info, I need some "rouge" and some buffing wheels. I'll compare prices.
Sam
 
One of our daughters bought me a set of these a few years back. They're still brand new and in the original sack up in the closet and Kelly will never know as I wouldn't hurt her feelings for
anything.
I still prefer doing things by hand whenever possible. I guess maybe I'm just old fashioned in that way too. I do have to admit though that the Grizzly Knife Grinder in the small bedroom that makes up my little shop is quite nice and very quick for sharpening a convex edge and the Grizzly Buffer is great for a highly polished edge on days I'm feeling lazy and modern. :)

They're excellent sharpening tools as Ferguson says, but play hell trying to sharpen a convex edge on them. I agree, YMMV.:)
 
Originally posted by Yvsa
They're excellent sharpening tools as Ferguson says, but play hell trying to sharpen a convex edge on them. I agree, YMMV.:)
Click to expand...

Hello my friend Yvsa! Glad to see you back, I've missed you. Actually I try to get a convex edge by varying the angle when I'm buffing. I like the old ways too, but guess I'm getting lazy in my old age.:)

If you have time, could you detail your method of convex sharpening? I've found the convex edge to be the sharpest, most durable edge that I've ever used. My Marbles Expert 2, Blackjack 1-7, and Jerry Hossom Millenium fighter all have convex edges.
Thanks,
Steve
 
also glad your back Yvsa! missed yah! agree buy hand is the best most the of time,less mistakes that can't be corrected in time[learning curve]
 
Thanks for good help. That should be titled, "all you ever wanted to know about sharpening -- and more!!!"
 
..definitely a most durable edge profile. The convex grind or clamshell grind was adopted by Japanese smiths to offer longer edge retention against the newer trends in metal armor. I call it the "iron drum" grind or "car door grind," as it is this edge that was developed to open up sheet metal, like armor.

Europeans took the short cut and slapped a bunch of flat grind profiles together, leving an obtuse flat grind bevel on the edge. Certainly not razor sharp, but like an axe grind, keeps the edge intact.

Keith
 
Originally posted by Yvsa
For sharpening the conves edges on khukuris simply read the FAQ'a men, read the FAQ's.:)
Click to expand...

See Yvsa, I told you I was getting old. The faq was the first thing I read when I came to the cantina, and I've already forgotten it.:D

Thanks,

Steve
 
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