New (To Me) "Unusual" Gerber MK 1

R

RIBob

Joined
Mar 3, 2025
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26
See here for vendor pix and text: https://www.ebay.com/itm/177219385670 Click on "See original listing" for pix.

Cleaned up a little with minimal and non-aggressive methods. Discoloration on blade and handle is not pitting, but surface only. Paid $205.

Very Dk Brown leather scabbard was "just" starting to crack (very dry), so applied some Pecard's oil inside and out; this will preserve in current state for a Long time. Female snap fastener (Line 20 size) was improperly set (loose), so re-set it using appropriate tools so that snap halves grip the leather tightly and won't tear out.

As received, knife can stand some sharpening, and I will investigate related topics. I have the tools and skill to "do it right". Blade steel IS magnetic.

Serrations on sides of handle and on the guard are well-executed and still sharp. Matching numbers of serrations side-to-side. This serration was done by someone who took care and knew what they were doing, and not your average "Bubba". Kinda scratching my head at locations of serrations, though. Some might think that an "experienced" person would have cut "thumbprints" (a la V-42) into the wider sides of the handle and guard. Less hassle, and better for gripping the blade when blade is in a horizontal orientation. But what do I know?

So, for Questions:

1) Is it genuine or some sort of fake?

2) Is the very low Serial Number credible?

3) Why was the black coating seen on every other Mk 1 knife removed, or was it possibly never applied due to the serrations?

4) What is the likely steel used in the blade?

If It's a valuable rarity, can I carefully sharpen the blade to original edge contour without diminishing whatever value it has?

If it's NOT a valuable rarity, can I gently glass-bead blast the handle, which would remove surface discolorations and provide an ideal surface for Brownell's Aluma Hyde II Epoxy paint?

It may be possible to very gently polish out the surface discolorations on the blade, as well as some edge scratches visible in the pix.

Comments invited, please. If I got screwed, let me know.
 
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polish avenger said:
1...Genuine
2...Credible
3...Coatings are removed for lots of reasons. Boredom, defects, etc...
4...That low of a serial number is likely to be L6

Opinion...some people should never be allowed to touch checkering files.
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TYVM for comments!

I "get" it, but the files used, and the technique used was definitely done by a skilled person, with knife in a vise and skilled usage of cutting implements. If the serrations were in any way "haphazard" I would wonder who did it, and for what purpose. These serrations are [/i]precicise[/i].

Still calling this thing a mystery.
 
polish avenger said:
1...Genuine
2...Credible
3...Coatings are removed for lots of reasons. Boredom, defects, etc...
4...That low of a serial number is likely to be L6
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This.

I've seen quite a few Gerber Guardians, Mark I's and Mark II's with the coating removed from the handle. Usually it's done because the handle gets all scratched up and looks bad.
 
Understood. However, in conjunction will very well executed handle serrations, I am wondering--and guessing.
 
Eventually it'll come to a point where these knives become too hard to find as they disappeared in people's private collections.
Im.not sure if anyone at gerber will be able to help *now* but never hurts to send them an email with photos and ask. If you get too spooked sell it off back on ebay and state authentication can't be 100% verified. That way you dont take the sand for potentially selling off a *maybe* knockoff
 
There was no skimping on that jimping ! :p

I'd guess with the sheath and all , that it is legit . :cool:

But with those mods , collector value is much reduced . ( True of almost any mods , regardless )

Still an interesting piece ,IMO . ;)
 
OK. Thanks so much for replies. All things considered, looks like I probably paid a "kinda" reasonable price for this thing, even if collector value diminished by serrations.

I'm going to contact Gerber about it and see what they say, and will update if Gerber says anything interesting. I'll ask if they can re-coat the handle, and if not, will glass bead blast it myself and paint it with black AH II epoxy paint. Under the circumstances, I will likely try to gently polish out the scratches and surface darkening on the blade itself and carefully sharpen it.

As far as possible painting goes, it appears that the original paint/coating may had some slight "texture" to it, but hard to say if it's the paint/coating of the surface of the handle itself. The handle on this example is quite smooth. The proposed AL II paint will go on smooth, with no texture. I'd appreciate suggestions for a durable, perhaps more appropriate paint/coating.

If any of the above seems like a bad idea, by all means let me know.

I'll snag a MK 1 nylon scabbard for it for storage, as I never store knives inside leather scabbards.
 
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I'm a collector & this Mark I has no "collector value" to me. I own 3 of them.

It's likely an early version of a Mark I but there is no record of production dates for the Mark I as there is for the Mark II. So, there's no way to "prove" its date of production.

Worn but unaltered Mark I's go for about what you paid for this one on EB.

Anything you do to it could not make it look any worse than it already does to me & most likely will make it look better.

So, no need to worry about how what ever you do to it to make it your own may affect its value or collectability.

Just go for it! 😎
 
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If that was posted here for sale, it would be hard pressed to fetch $75. JMHO. Personally I would pass at $40. The serrations totally destroyed any value it might have had as a vintage MK1. If the serrations were not there, maybe a $50 knife due to bare handle. Serious scratches on the blade, nobody wants to see that in their inventory. Saddle soap that sheath,I think it’s worth more than the knife at this point. Like new MK1 here won’t fetch $205 unless it’s has the original box in decent condition.
 
Looks like I may have gotten screwed on this, but I'll chalk it up to learning.

Thanks for all responses!
 
It is a low serial number Mark I probably made in 1976 the first year they were made. In 1976 only, they had dark green handles and sheaths. For an unknown number of years the blades were made of L6 tool steel. They looked like this when new, this knife's serial Number is 7810. It's a little hard to tell the color in this picture but the handle and sheath are OD green. Designed by Al Mar.

MK I first year 1976 OD Green.jpg

In 1977 and later the handle color and sheath were black and a few years later the blades were 440C. This next picture is an early 1980's Mark I and it's serial number is 82412.

MK I mid 1980s Black.jpg

Your knife has obviously had the Armorhide epoxy paint removed and they added the grooves on the handle and fingerguard. Gerber never did this on any of their knives. Your knife is not a valuable rarity, it has been modified by a previous owner. I would say sharpen it paint it, do what ever you like it won't hurt the value. A perfect condition Mark I in it's original box, like either of the ones in my pictures might get anywhere from about $250 for the black #82412 to about $400 for the #7810.
 
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Looks like I "overpaid", and that's on me. Seller does not accept returns, and I knew that going in. It is what it is.

No response from Gerber yet and not holding my breath.

I have options, including re-selling it.

What I think I will do is try to gently buff out the light scratches and surface discoloration on the blade; or at least reduce them considerably.

Then, I will glass-bead blast the handle which will remove surface discoloration and provide a perfect base for Aluma Hyde II Black epoxy paint. I'd rather Dk Green paint, but unsure where to get sufficiently Dk Green epoxy paint as pictured above.

I could fill-in the serrations and paint over them. Undetectable until epoxy paint chips/wears/stripped off.

However, that smacks of "misrepresentation" in the event the item is sold "postmortem". I would never sell it without describing the serrations, but I can't control what someone else does, especially if they don't even know the serrations were filled-in and painted over. So, I'm leaving them as-is, not least as a cautionary tale to remind me that "Condition" is primary.

Thanks, all above, for informative comments, including the comments illustrating my mistake. That's how we learn, and perhaps someone else reading this thread in the future will take heed.
 
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You could fill in with something like JB weld and then paint over with epoxy paint coating. I would just keep it. It's still a good knife.
 
vjb.knife said:
It is a low serial number Mark I probably made in 1976 the first year they were made. In 1976 only, they had dark green handles and sheaths. For an unknown number of years the blades were made of L6 tool steel. They looked like this when new, this knife's serial Number is 7810. It's a little hard to tell the color in this picture but the handle and sheath are OD green. Designed by Al Mar.

View attachment 2935172

In 1977 and later the handle color and sheath were black and a few years later the blades were 440C. This next picture is an early 1980's Mark I and it's serial number is 82412.

View attachment 2935177

Your knife has obviously had the Armorhide epoxy paint removed and they added the grooves on the handle and fingerguard. Gerber never did this on any of their knives. Your knife is not a valuable rarity, it has been modified by a previous owner. I would say sharpen it paint it, do what ever you like it won't hurt the value. A perfect condition Mark I in it's original box, like either of the ones in my pictures might get anywhere from about $250 for the black #82412 to about $400 for the #7810.
Click to expand...
DM me if 1st u ever want to sell the #7810. I'll be happy to take it! ☺️
 
RIBob said:
Looks like I "overpaid", and that's on me. Seller does not accept returns, and I knew that going in. It is what it is.

No response from Gerber yet and not holding my breath.

I have options, including re-selling it.

What I think I will do is try to gently buff out the light scratches and surface discoloration on the blade; or at least reduce them considerably.

Then, I will glass-bead blast the handle which will remove surface discoloration and provide a perfect base for Aluma Hyde II Black epoxy paint. I'd rather Dk Green paint, but unsure where to get sufficiently Dk Green epoxy paint as pictured above.

I could fill-in the serrations and paint over them. Undetectable until epoxy paint chips/wears/stripped off.

However, that smacks of "misrepresentation" in the event the item is sold "postmortem". I would never sell it without describing the serrations, but I can't control what someone else does, especially if they don't even know the serrations were filled-in and painted over. So, I'm leaving them as-is, not least as a cautionary tale to remind me that "Condition" is primary.

Thanks, all above, for informative comments, including the comments illustrating my mistake. That's how we learn, and perhaps someone else reading this thread in the future will take heed.
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eBay sellers must accept the return if you tell eBay it’s not what you were expecting. I have dealt with eBay sellers trying to pull that stunt on me,it don’t work. As long as you have not left feedback for the seller showing you are satisfied, it’s an open case for a return,you need to initiate that.
 
Mick Boardman said:
eBay sellers must accept the return if you tell eBay it’s not what you were expecting. I have dealt with eBay sellers trying to pull that stunt on me,it don’t work. As long as you have not left feedback for the seller showing you are satisfied, it’s an open case for a return,you need to initiate that.
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Ebay will make a seller accept a return if "item is not as described" which is anhuge gray umbrella to cover just about any vague phrase that means something similar, as a seller I've been defrauded because of this when a buyer claimed the spyderco I sold him was a fake, even though its been bought from an authorized source, I never sell or buy fakes. And a buyer can claim this any time even if the money was released and seller spent it long ago, your credit card is attached to your account so eBay will reach in and essentially take back the money until buyer and seller can come to an agreement, eBay encourages sellers to accept return in this instance, I've learned that eBay sh*ts on sellers and always sides with the buyer, its one reason i wont sell there anymore
Op, if you can't resell it, customize it and make it yours, and use it with reckless abandon
 
I was sold a fake last year for $413, as I had to pay the $13 shipping. Long story short, eBay refunded my money an hour after I contacted them. Seller is still selling fakes on eBay, eBay don’t care, but they will get your money back,I guess in most cases. The epoxy into the file trenches is a good idea.let it harden,sand smooth and use a high quality can of spray paint. Be sure to wrap the blade to prevent overspray.
 
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