New to sharpening knives, field suggestion

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Jan 21, 2016
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Hi , I am after basic sharpening stone system for knives to take into the field. I use a 2 sided bahco file for machete/axes and after preferably just one other lightish weight item to handle large bladed scandi knives, and occasionally kitchen knives at home at possible?( save buying multiple items). I looked at the fallkniven DC4 and Diafold which seemed perfect size wise but then heard diamond setups are are not the best for scandi grinds. Thanks for any other suggestions.
 
Shapton Glass 500/2000 compact combo stone. Can be found at Sharpeningsupplies.com
 
By the way also looking to add Condor barong to my stable of blades so system to include effectively sharpening that. If I beat it up too much the files will do of course.
 
I haven't had any issues using diamonds on my Scandis. I like my DC4 or my DMT credit cards. I might pick up a C/F Duofold soon, as that seems like it might be about perfect all around.
 
Hi , I am after basic sharpening stone system for knives to take into the field. I use a 2 sided bahco file for machete/axes and after preferably just one other lightish weight item to handle large bladed scandi knives, and occasionally kitchen knives at home at possible?( save buying multiple items). I looked at the fallkniven DC4 and Diafold which seemed perfect size wise but then heard diamond setups are are not the best for scandi grinds. Thanks for any other suggestions.

I would think a flat surface to be very important for sharpening scandi grinds. Diamond should excel in this department, if they come flat to begin with.
What is it you heard?
 
The diamonds will do a good job, but cosmetically they tend to not turn out as nice as something with a more friable abrasive, looser binder etc.

For myself I like the Norton silicon carbide combination stone puck. Its very thin and the perfect shape for refining hatchet and machete edges, and still work well enough for other edged tools. Used with water or oil it makes its own mud that can be used for a stropping compound. Is relatively inexpensive, so if lost or damaged is no big deal to replace.

Is always a trade off IMHO, the best strategy for field sharpening is choose a carbon steel or fine grained stainless - something with no or few alloy carbides. This really opens up the options for what can be used to sharpen them.

If the Shapton combi stone Jason recommended came in a puck form I'd probably have to try one.

Edit to add: I'm kind of surprised none of the diamond mfg seem to offer a combination puck shape - is a real handy item.
 
My field sharpening kit for too long has been an Eze Lap 46F, and a 6 inch nicholson 50 TPI flat file. The file stays in the leather sheath with the eze lap, I like this.
Although this setup is excellent for knife/axe/machete touch ups and minor sharpening, it can take a while if major work is needed.
I think for me, a 1x6 double sided eze lap with xcoarse/medium or fine (150/400 or 600), and that 2 sided bahco file (25/41 TPI) in a 6 inch version would be about perfect. It seems though that neither one exists.

A combo diamond puck sounds interesting too.
 
In the field I carry a medium grit carborundum stone, but a diamond would work quicker. I find that if I'm using my knife that much that I need a resharpening it's more efficient to put a good working edge on, strop on my jeans with a bit of slurry, and get back to cutting. For hatchets I carry a fine file and 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. to use wrapped around the file.
At home my scandi gets sharpened with a river stone I flattened a bit that stays outside in the garden. I wipe off dirt, sharpen, put it back. Quite handy when I'm bundled up in winter clothes and don't want to go through undressing for a touch up. With my scandi when I have time I use 400 grit paper, followed by stropping with white and red compound.

Connor
 
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