New to sharpening

[mdarby]

Hello:

Last night I bought a coarse diamond benchstone from Orchard Supply. I think it was a blue, single-sided 6 inch stone by DMT.

Will I be able to accomplish what I need to with this benchstone and the Spyderco Sharpmaker? I assume yes, but thought I would ask from people who have been doing this much longer than I.

Also, I tried to sharpen a dull, large chef's knife last night with poor results. I assume that this is a matter of practice makes purpose, so I'll keep at it. Maybe I'll make a rough guide to help me maintain a consistent angle, as I assume I was going up and down which probably serves to round any emerging edge.

But in general, assuming I am keeping a good and consistent angle, how many passes on a diamond stone should be required to reshape a dull edge?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Will I be able to accomplish what I need to with this benchstone and the Spyderco Sharpmaker?

Yes.

Also, I tried to sharpen a dull, large chef's knife last night with poor results.

What did you do and what happened.

But in general, assuming I am keeping a good and consistent angle, how many passes on a diamond stone should be required to reshape a dull edge?

If you are changing the angle significantly it could be 100-1000.

-Cliff

 

[mdarby]

Yes.

What did you do and what happened.

-Cliff

Thanks, Cliff.

I alternated sides while attempting (freehand) to estimate and maintain a 20 degree angle. I used light pressure, pushing away, starting at the edge near the handle and ending at the tip.

I'll try to make some kind of guide, so at least I'll have an objective reference angle.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

In general it is usually best to just sharpen one side until it forms clean and then switch and repeat. When you constantly alternate sides it is very difficult to keep the angle constant or tell what is going on at the edge. Having a jig will speed up the process significantly. You can just use your thumb/finger on the spine.

-Cliff

 

[sprokker]

Find a Sharpie. Make a couple of lines perpendicular to the edge, starting a half inch or so spine-wards of the edge and running off the edge. Three or four lines like that, spaced along the edge from the back to the tip will be good.

Then when you sharpen the knife, you'll be able to see where you're removing metal. Like Cliff Stamp said, sharpen one side until you've worn away the marker all the way down to the edge, then do the other side.

Use rubbing alcohol & paper towels to clean the left-over Sharpie from the blade before your wife sees.

 

[HoB]

If you cut in a new bevel with the DMT that you want to finish with the Sharpmaker, stay significantly below 20 deg. per side. More like 15 deg. (Or if you are ambitious, you can go even lower).

 

[Old CW4]

Mdarby: I may be old, dumb, clumsy, or more likely all three but I like to hold the blade fixed and move the stone. I find I can maintain my bevel angle a lot better because I'm sitting there holding the knife in my left hand, looking right down the blade, and moving the stone with my right hand. I usually stroke in circles as I work back and forth on the blade while taking care not to run my fingers into the edge. I can see the bevel and my stone to blade angle at all times which really helps. I also usually wear old sweats or keep a towel over my lap. Every so often, I wipe the dry stone on my sweat pants or the towel. If you feel you have to lubricate, use only water---no oil ever with a diamond stone. In fact, make sure the knife blade is clean of oil before starting to whet. BTW, use very light pressure with a diamond hone. No need to "lean" on it. When done, wash the stone in the kitchen sink with warm water and dish soap.