Hi, im new to stroping and I would like to know what should I buy to start out? I read a few other posts and most people were recommending strops from Lee Valley and HandAmerican. I checked out their websites and im not sure what to start off with. Once a strope is charged with a certain grit compound can it be charged with a different grit later on? What style of leather works best? Which honing compounds work best, pastes or dry compounds? Is it best to have 4 different stropes and charge each with a different grit honing compound?
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new to stroping, what do i need to buy?
- Thread starter MikeMade™
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Cliff Stamp
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Most people use stropping as a final step and thus use a piece of leather and a high grit polishing compound, 0.5 micron chromium/aluminum oxide is common.
-Cliff
-Cliff
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I've always used a kit from FlexCut the maker of many of my wood carving knives. I like their gold polish compound that comes in a small block. You simply use it like a crayon on the leather and then strop.
One little block of that compound lasts a very long long time. If you have the need their little FlexCut slip strop is a good one. I've used it for a long time for my knives and my carving tools. But if you are just using your strop for knives only I'd make my own on a paint stirring board and glue the rough side up of some good leather. That will work as well as any store bought one in my experience.
STR
http://www.woodcarvers.com/sh115.htm
One little block of that compound lasts a very long long time. If you have the need their little FlexCut slip strop is a good one. I've used it for a long time for my knives and my carving tools. But if you are just using your strop for knives only I'd make my own on a paint stirring board and glue the rough side up of some good leather. That will work as well as any store bought one in my experience.
STR
http://www.woodcarvers.com/sh115.htm
Mike, you can go crazy with all of this stuff.
But, the bottom line is this...
It is very easy to make a high quality strop. All you need is some good split cowhide. This should be anywhere from 1" to 3" wide, about 1/8" thick, and anywhere between 10" to 16" long. It will be smooth on one side and rough on the other. This will cost about $5 at a tack shop. Some places will even give it to you.
Next, you'll need a board to attach it to. I use Gorilla Glue as the adhesive. It can be found at just about any Home Depot for around $4. The boad should match the size (width & length) of the strop that you want to make. I've found that the 5 gallon paint stir sticks (which are usually free at your local paint store) are a perfect size.
Cut the leather into two pieces that are slightly larger than your wooden base. Mount one piece rough side exposed, and the other smooth side exposed. Clamp them and let the glue dry. Use a sharp knife and trim off the overlapping excess leather so that it looks nice and pretty.
Finally, apply a compound such as CrO. I prefer to put it on the smooth side. This leaves the rough side for any other compound that you choose to use. I heat the leather with a hair dryer, then rub the CrO crayon on it so that it is completely covered. Then I put a drop or two of mineral oil on top so that you can get an emulsion/paste. Just smooth it out and work it into the leather with your fingers. Let it dry, and you're all set.
You can not mix compounds on the same side, but you can scrape the old stuff off and put something else on in it's place. As far as solid or liquid compounds, it's up to you. Both are great.
But, the bottom line is this...
It is very easy to make a high quality strop. All you need is some good split cowhide. This should be anywhere from 1" to 3" wide, about 1/8" thick, and anywhere between 10" to 16" long. It will be smooth on one side and rough on the other. This will cost about $5 at a tack shop. Some places will even give it to you.
Next, you'll need a board to attach it to. I use Gorilla Glue as the adhesive. It can be found at just about any Home Depot for around $4. The boad should match the size (width & length) of the strop that you want to make. I've found that the 5 gallon paint stir sticks (which are usually free at your local paint store) are a perfect size.
Cut the leather into two pieces that are slightly larger than your wooden base. Mount one piece rough side exposed, and the other smooth side exposed. Clamp them and let the glue dry. Use a sharp knife and trim off the overlapping excess leather so that it looks nice and pretty.
Finally, apply a compound such as CrO. I prefer to put it on the smooth side. This leaves the rough side for any other compound that you choose to use. I heat the leather with a hair dryer, then rub the CrO crayon on it so that it is completely covered. Then I put a drop or two of mineral oil on top so that you can get an emulsion/paste. Just smooth it out and work it into the leather with your fingers. Let it dry, and you're all set.
You can not mix compounds on the same side, but you can scrape the old stuff off and put something else on in it's place. As far as solid or liquid compounds, it's up to you. Both are great.
SanShou,
I've just started experimenting with this as well. I noticed the surface begins to blacken after a while. I presume this is blade steel removed by the CrO. After it becomes obviously dirty this way I clean it off with waterless hand cleaner and re-apply.
I've just started experimenting with this as well. I noticed the surface begins to blacken after a while. I presume this is blade steel removed by the CrO. After it becomes obviously dirty this way I clean it off with waterless hand cleaner and re-apply.
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http://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html
The link shows what I decided to get to start stropping my knives. I figure the price was right and it was already setup to start stropping right away.
The link shows what I decided to get to start stropping my knives. I figure the price was right and it was already setup to start stropping right away.
Thanks! Mine is still green, when it starts to blacken I think I'll do the same as you.
D_R_Sharpening
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MikeMade;4019902 said:
HandAmerican 11"x3" leather hone
HandAmerican Pure Dry Chromium Oxide - 4 oz.
--Dave--
D_R_Sharpening
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I would have to say no, that is, it's not necessary.
The dry compound should be used very sparingly as it goes far and you'll want to wipe off any residual amount that hasn't worked into the leather.
On working it into the leather, just sprinkle a bit on the leather and rub it in with your fingers until the entire surface is coated. Remove the excess with a paper towel.
It's really that simple.
HA's dry compound is top notch and I highly recommend it.
--Dave--
Cliff Stamp
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While it is rare, there can be problems with email, both with recieving or sending. I have emailed them a few times, not commercial, just asking about things with no clear intention to buy at all, and they were prompt in responding.
-Cliff
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I was looking at the HandAmerican website and decided to put together a "scary sharp" package. This is what I came up with:
11X3 Flatbed Hone with 1/8 inch thick natural leather
3x11 seam edged glass plate with magnet strip
1000G PSA SC Paper
1500G PSA SC Paper
4000G PSA GSC Paper
9000G PSA GSC Paper
60000G chromium oxide Paper PSA
half pound dry chromium
I would appreciate any feedback or comments regarding this setup. BTW, my apologies to the OP if I am hijacking this thread. I just didn't think it would have been appropriate to start another thread on the same subject
. Aloha and mahalo!
11X3 Flatbed Hone with 1/8 inch thick natural leather
3x11 seam edged glass plate with magnet strip
1000G PSA SC Paper
1500G PSA SC Paper
4000G PSA GSC Paper
9000G PSA GSC Paper
60000G chromium oxide Paper PSA
half pound dry chromium
I would appreciate any feedback or comments regarding this setup. BTW, my apologies to the OP if I am hijacking this thread. I just didn't think it would have been appropriate to start another thread on the same subject
. Aloha and mahalo!If you couldnt reach them by email or landline then they are out of the office. Its a small business with a very personal touch so dont get to worried if you dont get an immediate reply. I sent about ten emails one day while i was working through my order list and got immediate replies from all of them but another msg got skipped as spam for a day.
A half pound of chromium oxide would last me a lifetime. It doesnt take much to charge a strop. I picked up a felt/leather strop for use with a straight razor. I've loaded the leather side with boron carbide and the felt side with Cr2O3. I used a pinky nail worth of paste on the felt side and even less on the leather side.
I'm not sure what you are sharpening (type of blade and steel) or what you are cutting with it but i would suggest picking up some of the coarse grits as well. When using papers it is more efficient to progress through the grits than to just pick one and hone away if you havent already established your edge geometry. With my norton 4k/8k waterstone i could change a bevel on M2 or 154 cm without too much trouble but trying to do that with a 4k abrasive sheet would be a waste of time and a good sheet. I ordered 2 of each grit they sell to figure out what works best for me.
You may also want to think about using an intermediary adhesive for your sheets instead of the psa. The psa sheets arent restickable and cost more. About a week ago someone posted a review on the supergrip that HA sells. I use glue sticks but my abrasive is inverted and needs a little extra grip but the supergrip should work fine for you if you dont apply a lot of pressure while sharpening.
My knives dont get stropped. After all that hard work to set up a very specific edge geometry all i am able to do on a strop is mess up the blade coating, and round all the bevels over. Thats not to say that stropping isnt effective, but i find in my limited testing on my chefs knife that the edge doesnt retain its sharpness as long as it would have on a flat hone and after a few sessions on the strop the edge has to be reformed on a hone as it lost all its definition and doesnt slice tomatoes as easily. This is all with a hanging strop and YMMV with the flat ridgid backed leather you are referring to. I am a poor college student and would prob get a piece of glass cut at a glass shop for $5 and glue a piece of leather to a board to save a few bucks. Btw, I am very happy with the fit and finish of the strop i bought, especially considering the price ($20). I imagine the glass and corrian bases are just as high a quality.
A half pound of chromium oxide would last me a lifetime. It doesnt take much to charge a strop. I picked up a felt/leather strop for use with a straight razor. I've loaded the leather side with boron carbide and the felt side with Cr2O3. I used a pinky nail worth of paste on the felt side and even less on the leather side.
I'm not sure what you are sharpening (type of blade and steel) or what you are cutting with it but i would suggest picking up some of the coarse grits as well. When using papers it is more efficient to progress through the grits than to just pick one and hone away if you havent already established your edge geometry. With my norton 4k/8k waterstone i could change a bevel on M2 or 154 cm without too much trouble but trying to do that with a 4k abrasive sheet would be a waste of time and a good sheet. I ordered 2 of each grit they sell to figure out what works best for me.
You may also want to think about using an intermediary adhesive for your sheets instead of the psa. The psa sheets arent restickable and cost more. About a week ago someone posted a review on the supergrip that HA sells. I use glue sticks but my abrasive is inverted and needs a little extra grip but the supergrip should work fine for you if you dont apply a lot of pressure while sharpening.
My knives dont get stropped. After all that hard work to set up a very specific edge geometry all i am able to do on a strop is mess up the blade coating, and round all the bevels over. Thats not to say that stropping isnt effective, but i find in my limited testing on my chefs knife that the edge doesnt retain its sharpness as long as it would have on a flat hone and after a few sessions on the strop the edge has to be reformed on a hone as it lost all its definition and doesnt slice tomatoes as easily. This is all with a hanging strop and YMMV with the flat ridgid backed leather you are referring to. I am a poor college student and would prob get a piece of glass cut at a glass shop for $5 and glue a piece of leather to a board to save a few bucks. Btw, I am very happy with the fit and finish of the strop i bought, especially considering the price ($20). I imagine the glass and corrian bases are just as high a quality.
Cliff Stamp
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Yeah, unless you are actually working polishing metals, the bars and such are way too much. I bought one a few years back and it pretty much still untouched and I sharpen much more than personal user with a lot of stock testing and sharpened for friends. Just think of a big crayon and how much surface you could color. I'd buy pretty much the smallest amount they sold.
These are traditional for straight razors and since the spine and edge hit the strop the pressure on the edge is very low. With knives you can't do this except in rare cases and if just the edge hits the strop it will bend readily and thus wrap around the edge. A harder surface is better for small contacts on most knives, leather, or better yet, newsprint or similar paper which will hold the compound, on hardwood.
It should not be that hard to find a flat surface, hardwood, plastic, or a piece of mild steel. Quality sandpaper is also not expensive, most hobby/craft stores sell sample packs for $1 and they contain enough abrasive to sharpen many knives. The main thing you want to do is make sure the bevel is properly shaped before you go to the paper, and don't skip grits.
-Cliff
