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Ohioan614

Joined
Jan 31, 2015
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Where are the best places to find the vintage heads that are still good and useable but not $50? Flea markets? Garage sale? Antique shops?
 
You can find them on the auction site for less than $20 total including shipping. Just look for no name axe heads that aren't worn down or abused. Rust is ok if the pitting isn't deep near the cutting edge. Often the no name heads were made by a big axe company to carry a store brand paper label.
 
Unless they've gone through a vinegar soak, not really. Most have a fairly deep temper line, especially Maine axes. With Vintage axes you really won't have to worry about temper lines.
 
Thanks. I am not interested in pretty. I don't have money for that now. I am looking for quality tools that need just a bit of tlc.
 
I have a couple that I would donate to help your learning curve along but I dont think I can PM you.==KV

I think I just left you a visitor message.
 
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I find most of mine at the flea market, I have yet to spend more than $10. I look at ebay and often get tempted to spend more on pretty ones with fancy names but thankfully my thin wallet brings me back to reality. Right now I'm just waiting for the weather to break and the big outdoor markets opening up again.
 
Another question from the new guy. With some background in firearms, I was wondering if anyone ever tried lapping compound on a bit or tung oil on the haft?
 
Never used lapping compound but have used Tung oil to restore mil surplus firearm stocks.

There are several members that believe in it and get really good looking results.
 
Ohioan614 said:
Where are the best places to find the vintage heads that are still good and useable but not $50? Flea markets? Garage sale? Antique shops?
Click to expand...

I have a few that I would be happy to send you if you are able to cover shipping. Mostly no name and in need of some work, but it will give you experience shaping pols (removing butt mushrooms), looking at blade geometry, sharpening, rehafting, etc. I am happy to donate them to the cause.
 
I just sent two your way in the mail. Post them when they are refurbished. It will be great to see the pics.
 
I have been making slow progress on two heads gifted to be by some of the fine members here. I ordered handles yesterday. I am planning to experiment with BLO and tung oil on this first round. As to the metal, I have seen beeswax and BLO mentioned here. What is the ratio for that and how does one go about mixing and applying it? Are there any other commonly used concoctions? I was hoping to use a bluing/oxidation treatment but gun blue appears to not build up enough of a layer to survive the first use.

Thanks in advance.
 
Ohioan614 said:
I have been making slow progress on two heads gifted to be by some of the fine members here. I ordered handles yesterday. I am planning to experiment with BLO and tung oil on this first round. As to the metal, I have seen beeswax and BLO mentioned here. What is the ratio for that and how does one go about mixing and applying it? Are there any other commonly used concoctions? I was hoping to use a bluing/oxidation treatment but gun blue appears to not build up enough of a layer to survive the first use.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I am no pro. I'll start with that caveat. I like to do it this way: 1) I consider the shape I want the finished product to be. Sometimes its the shape it comes in, or, if I can only get the Garant clubs, I find a shape I like. Currently, I am liking the Wetterlings 24 - 28 inch shapes. 2) shape the haft the way you would like it 3) sand all of the finish off of the haft if it has finish. I start with 100 grit and work up to 600 grit or 1000 grit even, to bring out the grain in the wood. 4) apply a couple of coats of BLO. Some people thin it for better penetration. I haven't found penetration to be an issue yet. (Be careful how how dispose of the rags if you use any). I also put an inch of BLO in the bottom of a container big enough for the head to sit in and I put the axe in the container, head down, so that the BLO can be absorbed into the wood in the eye of the axe. Leave that for a couple of days. 5) Once the BLO has tried, I do another light sanding and then apply beeswax with a cloth. I'll do this 4 or 5 times over a week with light sandings in between if needed. I rub some beeswax right on to the head to avoid rusting. That's how I do it.

To be clear, this is my hobby and I don't depend on the axes as working tools. If I did, and I am sure some of the more qualified working men on this sight can offer their opinions, I would apply a couple of coats of BLO then get to work. There are some AMAZING craftsmen on this site. You will get lots of good advice.
 
Antique shops are the best ~ I found one near me that has an 1800's Sheffield knife for $120.. Still wondering if I should buy it. Antique shops are all over, it really is the best place to find a great deal on old knives and cutlery. Besides estate sales, which are hard to find. Garage sales are always the next best. :thumbup: :thumbup:
Sometimes pawn shops mislabel things and you will get a great deal. I personally buy knives with defects and broken blades for 3-10 dollars a piece to regrind and fix into great users. Never know what you may find.
 
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