New to traditionals...need some advice please.

ThievesLikeUs

ThievesLikeUs

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Aug 2, 2009
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....Just started getting into traditionals, need a break from the folders :)

Received my first in the mail today, a GEC 72 in micarta.

I am in need of some advice on maintenance. What do you all recommend in the way of oils for corrosion resistance?

I hear that ballistol is good, will 3in1 oil do just a good a job?

Should I try to force a patina or let time, and use do its job?

Thanks for any and all help

and so this post isn't too boring, a pic of my new beauty :)

gec_zpsd7896156.jpg
 
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Welcome to the "relaxed" side of folding knives ;)

Most important: keep the knives as clean and dry as possible.

In my experience Ballistol is not bad, but it can make problems with nonferrous metals and alloys.
Personally I use Eezox Premium Knife Care, have not found anything better yet.
I heard BreakFree CLP is pretty good as well, never tested it myself, though.

If absolutely nothing else is at hand just cut a few slices of Salami after cleaning, that should have you covered for a few days ;)

Rem(ington) oil works great for moving parts with the Teflon in it.

If you ever have issues with rust you cannot go wrong with Nevr-Dull.

As for the patina: do it like you prefer. In my experience warm, almost cooking Heinz Apple Vinegar gives a nice deep black patina if you want to force it :)

That is all I use / have tested so far. Hope it helps a little.
 
Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil is the only thing I use for both lubrication and maintainance, as it is food safe and does not go rancid.

Anything acidic can put a patina on 1095. Make sure you start with a degreased blade to get even results. I use coffee grounds mixed with a little boiling water and some lemon juice to make a sludgy dip. I put the blade in and stir the mixture for a minute or so, then take it out and let it sit on the blade for another minute. Each cycle like this I wipe off the blade with my fingers to check the amount of patina, then go again if I want it darker. Usually takes about 3-5 dips. When it's done, rinse with very hot water, dry completely and wipe down with mineral oil.

This Northfield teardrop jack was done with this method, leaving a nice, even, light grey patina.

StagonWood_zps575f5bb1.jpg~original
 
Thanks Jeff, great tip.

Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil, can that be picked up at any drug store? Is there a big difference between it and run of the mill mineral oil?

what is your thoughts on Renascence wax?

Thanks.
 
Yeah, even grocery story pharmacy sections have it, usually around $5 for a 16 oz bottle. Lasts forever. Never used the wax.

Here's another coffee ground patina.

BBopen_zpsde96f3c6.jpg~original
 
ThievesLikeUs said:
Thanks for the help, what about Renaissance wax...thoughts?
Click to expand...

Not having tried any wax myself my thoughts are this:

I think it would be much more work to apply and the advantages of wax would only play out in the long run (durability).
If I were looking for a solution to store knives away for 5+ years without them taking any damage I would start looking into wax-based solutions.
If you are looking at the times in a typical EDC rotation (say < 3 months) it is not worth the extra work imho.
 
Welcome! #72 LB is a great pattern. I use Hoppies but I rarely do food prep. If you do use your knife on food, do what BM recommends.
 
Thanks for all the great help.

They will all be users at one time or another, might be sitting in my knife case for a few weeks or a month before being rotated in.

So it looks like mineral oil is the way to go with 3&1, hoppes and rem oil all being a close second if food prep is not an issue. This sound like a winner ? :)
 
Yep, mineral oil is my favorite as I use my knives for food prep. Really cheap and can be bought in pharmacies and most grocery stores. Welcome to the traditional side of life and enjoy that knife.
 
*****



ThievesLikeUs said:
I am in need of some advice on maintenance. What do you all recommend in the way of oils for corrosion resistance?

Corrosion resistance IMO is pretty over rated, keep it clean and dry, and when you think of it maybe a little shot of oil on a rag unless you live in a high humidity area you should be fine.

I hear that ballistol is good, will 3in1 oil do just a good a job?

I have used Balistol with my complicated rust prevention program in my above answer and it seems to do fine as a bonus it is food grade and will not hurt you.

Should I try to force a patina or let time, and use do its job?

That one is a hotly debated topic on this forum (as "hotly debated as anything on the friendliest sub forum on the internet can be) my answer to that is "maybe" I have forced patinas and liked them I have let work and food prep do the work and liked the result as well. My method is what i would refer to as semi-forced,when I get a new carbon knife my apple and orange intake goes up a bit for a while and next thing you know you have a patina. .

Thanks for any and all help

You are welcomed and welcome to a wonderful sub forum.[/COLOR

gec_zpsd7896156.jpg
Click to expand...
 
ThievesLikeUs said:
Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil, can that be picked up at any drug store? Is there a big difference between it and run of the mill mineral oil?
Click to expand...

Yes. The pharmaceutical grade is purer. The stuff is sold as a laxative. Since it is intended for, er, "human consumption", it has to be extremely pure. It has absolutely no contaminants and has no unsaturated groups. This guaranties that it will not turn gummy in and of itself over time.
 
ThievesLikeUs said:
....Just started getting into traditionals, need a break from the folders :)
Received my first in the mail today, a GEC 72 in micarta.
gec_zpsd7896156.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow! A #72 as your first traditional. Way to to!! Was looking at a 72 myself but held back as I was unsure of the blade play in the open/locked position. How is it on your knife?

As for the patina, lots of good advice has already been given above. For me, I'd rather just let time and use do their thing :)

Linus
 
Yeah boy :)

The small lock backs are my favorite "old Timey" designs for sure.

Mine has absolutely no side to side and just a very miniscule amount of up and down, but nothing to write home about.
 
I use Renaissance Wax on my folders, especially bone, stag, and even Delrin handles. Really brings out a rich shine and protects them a little. A very tiny amount works fine. I do NOT suggest using Renaissance Wax on linen Micarta. I tried that on a Queen Country Cousin and it made the scales look a little gray and blotched. Came out with some buffing and a little WD40, but I won't use it again on those handles. Great for bone, bolsters, and backsprings.

For lube on carbon steel blades, I use some WD-40 Silicone spray merely because I already have a big can of it. I have some Eezox Gun Care that I use if I want rust protection for knives that will be put up for a while. I personally find the Mineral Oil USP to be a little too viscous for knife lube. It's cheap and readily available, though, and if it doesn't work out on the knives you can use it for its medicinal purposes.

I don't like 3-in-1 in general for pocket knife use because it seems to continue to slowly seep out of the knife over time, leaving both the smell of it and the oil in your pocket and on your clothes.

Regarding patina, that's a matter of personal taste and choice. I have, on different knives: prevented a patina, forced a patina, and allowed a patina to form naturally. My favorite approach is what I call "resisted, inevitable patina" where I don't worry too much if a blade develops a patina, but I polish it off during normal knife maintenance using Simichrome metal polish and a rag. It doesn't get rid of all of the color change, but does return it to a glossy finish. Over time, I get the same muted gray color without black spots and blotches, but the surface is still smooth and shiny.

My favorite approach to getting a patina started is just to use the knife to cut up fruit whenever you are in the mood for fruit. It tends to develop rather pretty bluish purple iridescent patinas that change each time you use it. Strawberries are especially artistic in their hues imparted.
 
I did a mustard patina on my Case SBJ months ago -recently discovered a patch of horrid red rust on the blade. And I oil them with non food grade 3in1. So beware of the mustard. It'l be okay tho I think.
Thats a nice lookng 72 btw.
 
Since basically any of my knives may be used for food prep at any time, mineral oil is all I use. And I've never forced a patina on a knife - I just use them, wipe them down occasionally with a mineral oil-soaked rag, and let time take its course. Never had an issue with rust.
 
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