New topic- countersinking

Chiro75

Chiro75

Joined
Feb 4, 1999
Messages
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Okay, one more skill/tool problem to figure out. What type of tools will I use for countersinking hardware to get the screw heads flush (or flush-er) with the handle scale material? I realize that this depends on the type of hardware and whatnot, so let's look at two scenarios:

1) You want to sink a screw like a cap head or button head into your material (like a pivot pin). The bottom of the head is flat, so I suppose you need a drill bit or something that cuts flat, right? Can you just throw a cheap end mill bit into a drill press and go for it? So, let's say I'm using 3/16" pivots and 1/8" pivots from Halpern. What would I use to get the heads on the hardware more flush?

2) Let's talk about 1-72 flat head screws (so the bottom of the head has a pitch to it). What would I use to sink them flush with my handle material?

Now that I've gotten the hang of reaming and screwing it's time to bring in some more advanced moves. :D
 
I'll answer your questions, if you'll start answering our questions about fixing that sore back, stiff neck, twisted shoulder and all the problems us knifemakers have. :D
 
Sure, no problem. The answer is pretty much the same for what ails you: see your chiropractor or medical doctor! Now, let's hear about some countersinking! :D

Honestly, most of the things that are bothering knifemakers, assuming you're uusing a lot of machines to do the work, are posture and ergonomic related. Your body isn't meant to be in one static posture for long periods of time, it's meant to be in motion. Add to the static posture a POOR static posture and you have a recipe for disaster.
 
I just use a drill bit slightly larger than the head of the screw to countersink.
All my drills have 35 deg. tips which is a little flatter that the standard 18 deg. tips. Works for me. Also R B Johnson sells counter sinks for 1-72 and 2-56 with a self centering pilot tip.

Don Hanson lll
 
Chiro,

You Palmer chiropracters have made a HUGE difference in my life. I would not be able to lift my left arm, lay in a bed to sleep, avoid almost constant headaches, or walk upright without the adjustments of the last 20 years. That is just the functional change, and doesn't begin to describe the ability to keep the pain at a manageable level. Falling apart sux; you Palmer folks have made the downhill road easier for me to deal with.

Considering the thousands spent on physical therapy prior to my first visit to a "bonecracker" 20 years ago, you are the most magnificent deal going for me at $20 a pop (pun intended!).

I just wanted to say thanks to you as our resident chiro for all of us who benefit from what you folks do. THANKS! :)
 
Wow, awesome! I wish I could have some knifemakers as patients. Trade, trade trade, leave that wallet in your pocket! :D

So, my drill bits are all "118°" which I suppose means a 28° angle to them from flat, right? They are jobber bits, 118°, unless I added that extra "1" in myself. You think that's good enough for flat heads with angled bottoms as well as button heads and socket heads with flat bottoms?
 
Sorry Chiro, I ment 135 deg. and yours should work just fine. The 135's just seem to work better all around for me, they also have a stronger edge for cutting metal and tough stuff. And I also like you bone crackers ;) I go to one 2 or 3 times a year.

Don Hanson lll
 
I use a piloted counterbore for the pivots and small cap head screws. That way you have a flat bottomed hole CENTERED on your pass through. Make sure you set a stop on your drill press cause they cut easier than you think!

For countersinking the 1/72 I use a 82 degree countersink that is a 6 flute carbide and is only 3/16th diameter, that way you just countersink until the edge touches the top of yoru material and a standard 1-72 screw will have its head JUST under the top of your material...

Good luck finding the #1 size screw counterbores! the ones for the pivots are easy and so are the countersinks... I have been using the same ones for 5-6 years with no problems...

Hope It helps..

Alan Folts
 
Hey Chiro....I am getting an MRI on my back next wed..........you should be in my town! Seems like I am having shooting nerves down my left leg. almost as fast as ligtning strikes and over just the same...

Dont get fluted counter sinks. They chatter like the dickens. I have a good #8 counterbore with a hole in one side to cut. Anyone know where to buy these? I need a #10. Also what size am I refering to? Thats just what we call them in the shop here to match the screws were using.
 
basically,,,,, an 82 deg double cut center drill, as I mentioned before :rolleyes: :D
I use the 3/16 (body) and a plus, it's double ended.

if you are jigged up you should pilot with a center drill anyway :)
 
You know, I was at the library this morning and where I thought the machining texts were (there was only one) was actually the "metalworking" section. I found about 10 textbooks on machine shop skills. What a dumbass. I could've saved everyone a lot of typing if I had typed in "machine" in my library search instead of "machinist". I was thinking "machinist's handbook" or something. Anyway, even though some of these textbooks are older than I am they still have most of the stuff I needed to look up, anyway, although they don't go into what goes with what. Now I have it ALL figured out and I can leave you guys alone. :D
 
The Search function here works well also. Here is one I posted from Dec 2001.

MSC carries the counterbores. Here is what I use for 82 degree flathead screws - #1 HSS Straight Shank Machine Screw Counterbore - 63762017 and for a #2 screw - 63762025.
For button head screws - 63761019 and for #2 - 63761027. I use the big Blue book but they are on the net at www.MSCDirect.com.

Still using those same item numbers.
 
Steve pick yourself up a machinist's bible
it will have just about anything you'll ever want in it.
 
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