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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I ordered a Reeder Surface Grinder attachment for the new shop build. It will be on a dedicated horizontal grinder. I am very impressed with how rigid it is and how much you can do with it. Tapered tangs and blades, bevels, surface grinding billets of damascus, flattening blades post-HT, warp removal, etc.
It is shown with the 1.5X1.5 stock tool arm, but I will run it with a double arm for more rigidity.
The post sticking up is where the contact wheel goes. Being able to use different types of contact wheels is also nice.IMG_20190511_120800.jpg IMG_20190511_120814.jpg IMG_20190511_120820.jpg IMG_20190511_120837.jpg IMG_20190511_120827.jpg
 
That looks stout, looking forward to your review of it. Let me know if you need some post HT AEB-L that warped to dial it in...
 
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Congrats! Awesome looking product and from their lengthy video it looks to be an awesome piece of tooling!
 
From all the videos I've watched the Reeder SGA impress me the most. Almost makes me wish to order one even though the SGA I built works really good. Looking forward to your reports once you have used it some.
 
It should fit a KMG or KMG clone. The bar is 1/5X1/5". They have a clamp to allow a second bar to be in the accessory slot on the grinder to parallel the main bar.
TW-90 and Bader use 1.25" bars, and won't fit this attachment.

I think it needs a 1.5" bar because of the weight, too. The shipping box was 60 pounds. The surface grinder weighs around 40 pounds or so.

I noticed Mr. Reeder stating in his videos that several things are available from them that are not in the shopping links on their website ( replacement magnet chuck heads, clamps, parts, etc.). These accessory pieces and replacement parts should be available by calling him.
 
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Man that looks wicked! Very beefy. Can't wait to see your results... cheaper than buying a surface grinder!
 
looks nice and a great option for shop thta cant fit a surface grinder (includes mine) i worry about deflection washing out holes in parts due to rubber wheelbehind the belt. will be watching closely as to how it works out cause i need a SG bout once a year but coud find many more uses if i had one in ohuse
 
The feature of being able to adjust angles width wise, and grind in bevels, looks interesting. Although I’m not really sure how that would work. I guess you’d have to set the lengthwise angle so that the wheel would stop making contact about where the plunge line, or flats would be. But then it would grind a distal taper though... wouldn’t it? Too many angles to consider maybe. Lol
 
A couple of angles then bit of free hand grinding maybe?
Be easy with those angles to work to
Well made looking machine
 
The bevels are ground by using the built in 5" sine plate. I would think it is most useful for grinding kitchen knives without a plunge line. A stop could be placed on the slide easily ( I am already building one that adjusts) for blades with a rounded plunges.

The wheel can be changed to any wheel you want to use - 2" to 10", serrated, smooth ,70 or 90 durometer, … or a metal wheel. He covers that in the set up and use videos. He does the initial truing of the magnetic chuck with a 70 durometer 4" wheel, then switches to a metal wheel that he had trued up on the lathe. He does the rough removal on the metal wheel and then switches back to the rubber wheel for the final finish. The outcome was a parallel surface within a few thousandths. In most knives we don't need parallel surfaces due to tapers and bevels, so the accuracy isn't needed, but it is nice. For folder guys, the accuracy and smooth surface is a plus.

You slide the magnets in the chuck, using only the number needed. I checked it out and three magnets will lock a blade in so tight you have to use a piece of Micarta and a mallet to knock the blade out of the chuck.. His method of taking a warp out is very well thought out. He puts a magnet in the chuck at each end of the warped blade. He then slips a thickness gauge as a shim under the middle , and slips the middle magnet in place. This prevents the billet or blade from being pulled flat by the magnet as the surface is trued. Once that side is done, you remove the blade and shim and flip the blade over for the other side. The result is a flat and parallel billet/blade.

I have an experiment to run once the dedicated grinder is built. If it is switched to vertical and a small wheel arm is used, I think the SG can be used to make fullers. I may have to build a special small wheel arm that is adjustable, but that shouldn't be hard.​
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The bevels are ground by using the built in 5" sine plate. I would think it is most useful for grinding kitchen knives without a plunge line. A stop could be placed on the slide easily ( I am already building one that adjusts) for blades with a rounded plunges.
​
Click to expand...
And grind only one side ............perfect ! :thumbsup:​
 
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Some Japanese full tang kitchen knives like the Hattori "forum knife" line are actually ground like a sword in that the entire length of the knife is bevel ground including the tang. Slightly lazy i guess, but they avoid having to "blend" the plunge. You could do that in theory on this rig but for the fact tha it isn't long enough to do it all in one shot per side.
 
jdm61 said:
Some Japanese full tang kitchen knives like the Hattori "forum knife" line are actually ground like a sword in that the entire length of the knife is bevel ground including the tang. Slightly lazy i guess, but they avoid having to "blend" the plunge. You could do that in theory on this rig but for the fact tha it isn't long enough to do it all in one shot per side.
Click to expand...
Well I m not Japanese but I do it and I like it .....;) If I ever make/finish this tool this kind of grind would be the reason .......
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/plungeless-knife.1553656/
 
I have two Reeder grinders and the Reeder tool arms are slightly oversize to fit the KMG. However just grinding off the excess aluminium on the tool arm is pretty easy and it still works with the Reeder grinder just fine after being ground down a bit.
 
JMJones said:
I have two Reeder grinders and the Reeder tool arms are slightly oversize to fit the KMG. However just grinding off the excess aluminium on the tool arm is pretty easy and it still works with the Reeder grinder just fine after being ground down a bit.
Click to expand...

I have a couple Reeder arms and tools for my KMG. I never had any issues with fitment.
 
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