New Toy

Pack Rat

Pack Rat

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
4,843
Morning guys!!

I picked up a 6 inch buffer the other day at Sears with a 1hp motor , 3450 rpm, dual cloth buffing wheels.

Haven't fired it up as yet. Got to make a place for it on the work bench.

I know this could get moved to some other forum, but wanted to started it here because I will primarily be polishing Buck 110's and some other old scrufty users. don't want to buff those scallops into the scale behind the bolster as Trax showed in one of his scans (btw, Good Scan Trax!:thumbup: )

So, looking for tips and hints so I don't immediately screw up something. Problem is, I don't really have a non-collectable beater 110 to pratice on.

I did talk about one no dot two scale pin 110 I got in that has all four bolsters lightly etched with a bunch of names. I guess that one will be my tester. I also want to get to the point of polishing scratches out of blades, if this buffer will do that.

Buffer has one kind of loose floppy wheel and one that is sewn up tighter to the edge. I have some of the red and white compounds. Haven't opened it up yet so hope there are some
instructions.

Will appreciate any tips.... handouts, donations, as the Goose would say... :D

I know, I know, I will get around to reading all the stuff that is posted in the other forums. Just a lot to look at and try and digest. Just thought you guys might have specifics to the 110's or other Bucks.

Thanks
lfh
 
I tried the Sears rouge; it doesn't seem to match the "real" buffing compounds. I'm presently using a 3/4" thick sewn Muslin wheel, 6" dia, with the "white" grease-type buffing compound from Jantz Supply (got the wheel from them too) at ~1725rpm...

Their white compound is advertised as an "all around" compound.

What I've learned...

I sand with 320/400/600 wet-or-dry paper first, before buffing. Wear eye protection and a good nose filter! Put a bucket/box of rags under the buffer...you'll know exactly where to place it very quickly...

Wear old clothes...clean the area before & after...a fan exhausting to the outside is a good idea...some knife scale material can be dangerous to your health if inhaled [Ivory; bone]; be careful...Be prepared to shower after buffing...

And be prepared to spend a lot of time buffing out scratches...it isn't a quick process...buff perpendicular to the scratches...keep turning the buffing surface so it doesn't all buff in one place/direction...it'll get hot, too; so either cool it off, or keep moving it around while buffing...
 
...when I had my buffer I used an old metal fish scaler as the "comb" to freshen the buff...worked like a charm. I still have the scaler, someone else now has the buffer...LOL...:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the tips guys, Still haven't unpacked it yet. Been busy.

Good info! Appreciate it! I guess this means I can't set it up here in my little room upstairs.
 
Seems I read somewhere to work the buffer from back side in case it grabbed a knife and flung it down at you. Sounds like full body armor is in order. Steel toes and steel jock strap at least. :eek: :eek: :rolleyes:

This thing is 3450 rpm. Would it be better if it was slower? Somewhere in my junque I have a foot powered controller. Or used to anyway, I have two sons in law.......
 
3600rpm for harder materials, 1800rpm for softer materials...

Seems I read somewhere to work the buffer from back side in case it grabbed a knife and flung it down at you
Click to expand...

Then it would fling it *up* at you... :eek:
 
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