New User Knife Care On the Cheap?

T

trantordays

Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
3
Hello all!

I am new to knives and especially new to knife care. I just bought my first EDC knife: a kershaw skyline (my second over all knife, first being a SOG Seal Pup Elite for camping which I havent actually used yet). I have to say Im very happy with it so far, but I did find that I cant get it to snap out using just the T part that sticks out the back yet. I have searched on here and it was said that it needs a "wearing in" period, and I have noticed it getting further and further along opening all the way with just the finger swipe (no wrist action).

I have actually been using the knife frequently to open boxes, cut tape, rope, etc. and realized I have no idea how to actually care for a knife. I don't have much money to invest in oils/sharpeners and frankly, dont think I would have the skill to sharpen using "sharpies" and manual sharperners (dont really know how the markers come in to play, just what Ive seen on here when I searched for how to sharpen). I was wondering if you guys could help with some intro product recommendations/how-to-video-for-new-people resources so I can get a weekly/monthly routine going?

Thanks!
 
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trantordays said:
Hello all!

I am new to knives and especially new to knife care. I just bought my first EDC knife: a kershaw skyline (my second over all knife, first being a SOG Seal Pup Elite for camping which I havent actually used yet). I have to say Im very happy with it so far, but I did find that I cant get it to snap out using just the T part that sticks out the back yet. I have searched on here and it was said that it needs a "wearing in" period, and I have noticed it getting further and further along opening all the way with just the finger swipe (no wrist action).

I have actually been using the knife frequently to open boxes, cut tape, rope, etc. and realized I have no idea how to actually care for a knife. I don't have much money to invest in oils/sharpeners and frankly, dont think I would have the skill to sharpen using "sharpies" and manual sharperners (dont really know how the markers come in to play, just what Ive seen on here when I searched for how to sharpen). I was wondering if you guys could help with some intro product recommendations/how-to-video-for-new-people resources so I can get a weekly/monthly routine going?

Thanks!
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I would say get a spyderco sharp maker for 55 if you can afford it it comes with a how to use it video and its very easy to use and works great. If not get lansky crock sticks they work good too its what i had before i could afford a sharpmaker.
I would say some cheap gun oil would be good some wd-40 or if you want a tuff cloth. Wd 40 is good to wipe down the blade if it gets wet or in salt water also takes off sticky residue.
A tuff cloth would be good to prevent rust but just wiping it off with some oil or wd 40 works just fine and is cheaper. i would say get a torx set just a cheap one from home depot or lowes or a gorilla grip online. If you just want the specific sizes though a t6 and a t8. To tighten any loose screws on the pivot or pocket clip that might happen.

Also some blue loktite might be good to put on the pivot to prevent it from loosening its self up.

Hope this helps.



BTW on the general knife discussion thread screen if you double click next to your title you can edit it and then hit enter to finalize the edit :)
 
Thanks all for the responses so far! I guess Im worried about having to manually maintain specific angles to sharpen with
 
trantordays said:
Thanks all for the responses so far! I guess Im worried about having to manually maintain specific angles to sharpen with
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don't pay much attention to that.
i had the same worries when i first got into this.
the sharpening system is cheap and very easy to use mate.
if i can do it so can you ;)
 
Yea man its really simple. If you can hold your hand straight you can use like a sharp maker and other fixed angled systems. The steel on that kershaw isnt too hard to sharpen either.
 
how can I decide whether I need to start at a "medium" stone or "fine" stone? Ive heard you only need to use a medium stone if your blade is in "bad shape" but youtube seems to think that means cant cut paper like butter, but Ive read on here that in reality, no one cuts paper so its a bad test of sharpness?
 
We all cut paper, it's just the thing to do, that and shave our arms, its cause having the sharpest knife possible is fun.

Get a sharpmaker
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trantordays said:
how can I decide whether I need to start at a "medium" stone or "fine" stone? Ive heard you only need to use a medium stone if your blade is in "bad shape" but youtube seems to think that means cant cut paper like butter, but Ive read on here that in reality, no one cuts paper so its a bad test of sharpness?
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If you can slice paper you got a very good edge. Not a pratical test though I would say take your nail and lightly slide it along the edge if your edge feels very chippy or rolled I would do a few passes on the medium grit first but if your edge is just dulling you can get it sharp on the fine stones. When I first got the sharpener I would give it about 10 passes on the medium grit, feel the edge before and after and you will feel that it's more toothy then give it a few on the fine grit. Then just touching it up after any extensive use weather it be daily weekly or monthly all varies on how much you use it. Also if you pick up a ceramic sharpening system grab some comet powder cleaner or some bar keepers friend it's less then 2 bucks and cleans the sharpening rods like brand new.
 
The Lansky 4 rod turn box will take care of your edge for a loooong time. The diamond rods are aggressive enough to take out minor damage and/or quickly establish a new micro bevel, while the ceramic rods will keep things shaving sharp with a few strokes whenever you feel the need. http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/LSTB2D2C/lansky-4-rod-diamond-ceramic-turnbox-crock-stick-sharpener If you decide to go this route, a few bits of advice: 1. While using the diamond rods, just use the weight of your hand and the knife. Let the diamonds do the work. Use NO additional pressure whatsoever. On the ceramics you can use a small amount of pressure on the initial strokes, but you always want to do the final few strokes with no pressure, just like the diamonds. Finally, be careful not to run the tip of your blade off of the rods. This will round the tip of you knife. You're not gonna ruin the tip if it slips off a few times while you're getting used to the system, just don't make a habit of if. It shouldn't take long to get a feel for it and be able to stop the blade just before this happens. The Sharpmaker suggested above is a fantastic system, too (much more precise than the Lansky), but since you're trying to do things on the cheap right now, the Lasnky is good alternative.

edit: Some people lube their folders, some don't. If you want to occasionally oil the pivots on your knives, go to the drugstore and pick up a bottle of mineral oil. It's dirt cheap, effective, and food safe. I use an old twist tie off a loaf of bread as an applicator. Just dip it in the oil and slip it down between blade tang and handle around the pivot area. If there's not enough room to actually slip it between blade tang and handle, just press it up against the handle on either side and let a drop of oil work its way down into the area.
 
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You can learn a lot by watching YouTube videos...I watch a variety of them and have learned a lot. It really is not hard to learn to sharpen your knife to a perfectly acceptable working edge...it doesn't have to be "scary sharp" or "hair popping" sharp to perform well for most if not all tasks...other than cutting telephone book paper to pieces or shaving ones arms.

You can get a decent sharpening stone at a Home Depot, etc. for a very reasonable cost. If you are going to own and use a tool you must be able to keep it in good working shape and for a knife that means a sharpening stone of some sort. If you are worried about damaging, dulling, etc. the edge on your Skyline while learning I suggest buying a cheap folding knife...we have a sporting goods store that has a "bottle of knives" that sell for one dollar and three dollars each...great for learning how to sharpen a folding knife.

To keep it clean is also easy...first learn how to disassemble/assemble the knife...it is easier than it seems...you made need a Torx driver...if so take the knife to Home Depot, etc. and buy a driver set for just a few bucks...I use Silicone food quality spray, WD40 but usually Lansky Honing Oil to clean my knives...I have a piece of sweat shirt that I apply a bit of honing oil, etc. to and wipe down the parts of the knife...I wipe it dry using a piece of old tshirt...You can use mineral oil, silicon, etc. as the lube but as with all lubes only apply where needed and sparingly...I apply a bit of lube, I prefer BenchMade Blue Lube but it is a bit pricey, to my index finger tip and rub it between the finger and thumb to spread it, then I rub it on both sides of the washer/bushing, knife and liners where the washers sit...that is really all the lube you need. Reassemble and enjoy.

Again...spend some time searching YouTube...use words/phrases such as "hand sharpening a folding knife", "taking apart a Skyline", etc.

Good luck, enjoy and keep us posted.
 
I just got a skyline and had the problem of it being a little difficult to flip open, had to add some wrist flick. Unscrew the pivot and rescrew it to a comfortable position for you, it becomes really really smooth.
 
It doesn't take too much to maintain a knife in reality, it's just that were knife enthusiasts so we go a bit overboard.

A decent sharpening stone, oil, and some torx bits would set you up for the life of that knife.

I let others comment on sharpening stones as I have very limited experience with this. As for oil if you really wanted to you can pick up a bottle of 3 in 1 and be set, it's cheap and easily found at stores and will work for your knives. Are there better stuff, yes. But it's not nearly as easy to find and probably a little more expensive. For torx bit's I use a gorilla grip that was given to me years ago, though if I had to buy torx bits now I buy some of the L shaped wrenches (so you have 2 sides to use before replacement) so I can replace them individually when one wears out. Though it seems the T6 and T8 are the most used bits. I also don't recall ever using anything larger than a T10 let alone a T10.

I recently picked up some oil and sharpening stones within the past month the whole thing set me back around $50. DMT Deluxe Aligner and a bottle of 3 in 1. And I am using an old leather belt as a strop.

Before you loosen up the pivot I recommend dropping a few drops of oil and moving the blade into an open and close position a bit to work it in. And than seeing if that makes it open more freely before you start loosening up the pivot. It's less of a headache this way if something does go wrong if you loosen it up too much (though easily fixed by tightening it up again, it's just easier not to if you haven't oiled it yet).

If the concept of disassembly of a knife to give it a thorough cleaning scares you there are other options. A toothbrush may not have long enough bristles to reach everywhere but if you pick up a cheap painters brush with strong bristles you can run the knife under warm water and use dish soap and scrub it clean. Or use the toothbrush in combination with a thin cloth and run it between the liners when the blade is open to remove the gunk and use the toothbrush on the pivot to help knock out the gunk.

Or what I currently do and use a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to clean that Skyline, I am pretty certain the Skyline will be safe in the ultrasonic as long as your using just warm water and dish soap and it will come out very clean. Just be careful what you put in there, not wood, pearls, and a few other things as it will destroy it. And not your hand/body as it bad for your health. After the cleaning is done you just have to relube it. Though if you go this route read up on proper usage of the ultrasonic and what you can and can't do with it, and safety. It is very good tool, I use mine all the time but it is not to be toyed with despite it not looking dangerous.
 
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I recommend silicon spray lubricant, rather than oils for modern SS folders.
It dries quickly but remains slippery, so it doesn't attract lint & filth or run over everything like oil can.
Rust is really not an issue with EDC. Keep it clean & dry. Rust rarely happens when you use it every day.

Crock sticks, Sharpmaker, are easy to get the hang of. You will quickly work out what grit to use.
 
Most knives need very little physical maintenance other than a drop of thin oil on the pivot from time to time, unless they get loaded with sand or grit, or are very neglected. A set of torx drivers and small screwdrivers is helpful.

For sharpening I sell a full service block through the thread linked in my signature, still have one left from the most recent batch. There is a full description of how it works and what it is, and a handful of videos showing exactly how to get the most from it. Also comes with a manual and should answer many general questions.

Here's a quote I just received from a new owner:

I got the washboard yesterday and have had a chance to play with it a little. It works great. Way easier to work than my spyderco sharpmaker and already giving me some nice edges. I look forward to growing in my abilities. The sharpie thing definitely helps to see how I'm hitting the edge. Thanks for your quick shipment and great product.
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Most folks need a week or so of playing with it to get good results, but is pretty intuitive. Works with you and is simple yet versatile.

Martin
 
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