New USFS Axe Manual

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moosecreektrails

Joined
Apr 8, 2012
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MTDC is working on a new Axe Manual,and I know most of you have read the old one.
1. what do you like about the old one.
2. what you don't like.
3. what needs covered more.
4. Does it need more on chopping or should it be in a chopping manual?
 
I love the old manual. Can't wait to see the new one.

I'm just now glancing through the old one and the first minor nit-pick I've come across is the suggestion to cut off the tip of the fawn's foot to created a striking platform for the mallet. A full unclipped fawns foot is more comfortable for me, less likely to blister and can be driven just fine with rubber mallet. White rubber won't mar it.

It might be nice to include some instruction on how to correct the hang while shaping/rasping the eye portion of the handle. Often times during the hanging process you will see the axe favoring one side or the other of the haft. Proper rasping can push it back to center and even correct for some radial misalignment - i.e, bit twisted off the line of the haft. I think some photos with an explanation for "if it's going crooked this way then rasp some more here" would be useful.

Some info on when and where to use various styles and weights of axes might be nice, too. When would you choose a 3 lb. vs. when you should choose a 4 or 5 lb. - that sort of thing.

A discussion of flat vs. convex cheeks would be helpful.
 
any and all information about axes and ax usage would be killer,:D manufacturers:thumbup:,maintenance, handles, etc; more of what is already in the old manual with updates

all good

buzz
 
That's a tough one. The old one is pretty good IMO!

Maybe they could put a new section that provides counseling resources for 'axe addiction' :D
I think that there are a few folks around here that really need some help :p
 
I haven't been able to find any counselors willing to help with my axe addiction. When I explain what the problem is......they turn pale and run.
 
Here's another little nit-pick. In the splitting section it talks about removing a stuck axe by rapping on the end of the handle with the palm of your hand. A couple things here, first it should be mentioned that removing an stuck axe is the activity most likely to loosen a handle. The best way to remove it is to leave the handle completely alone and rap on the top of the poll with a heavy mallet. This loosens the axe without putting any strain on the handle at all.

In the hewing section when it's describing the snapping of the chalkline, I would add that it's a good idea to remove any high spots or loose bark before snapping the line. Those high spots can catch the chalkline and cause it to lay a crooked line.

A sharpening tip. Sometimes an old axe can seem impossible to file. Two things can be going on here. One is that you may have a dull or soft file. The other is that the patina layer on an old axe can be noticeably harder than the underlying steel. If you slowly work through the patina in one area then you can work out from that area with the file digging down under the patina layer and lifting it from below. I've sharpened some tough axes with this method.
 
moosecreektrails said:
4. Does it need more on chopping or should it be in a chopping manual?
Click to expand...

Chopping should be in the same axe manual, not in a separate manual. But adding more on chopping is a good idea. It's the activity that most people buy an axe for - even if the axe they buy is poorly suited for splitting (flat skinny cheeks). A short section on the use of the sledge and wedges would be nice. The shaping of the edge of a wedge should be noted too, slightly concave, or even flat is better than convex.
 
moosecreektrails said:
1. what do you like about the old one.
Click to expand...

Pretty much everything. I like how it covers all the major uses of an axe. The only use I see missing is 'stump work' or carving/shaping objects with a small axe or hatchet atop a stump or splitting block.

I also love all the history stuff. It's secondary to the how-to stuff but it's fun and interesting and helps to build the readers respect for the tool. That's important.

The hanging section is quite good just as it is. One small addition I would make is the suggestion to bevel the top of the wedge before driving it to lessen the chance of splitting it - not that a split wedge is a big problem.

In the sharpening section I might add that it is sometimes easier to sharpen the axe before hanging it.
 
Square_peg said:
A sharpening tip. Sometimes an old axe can seem impossible to file. Two things can be going on here. One is that you may have a dull or soft file. The other is that the patina layer on an old axe can be noticeably harder than the underlying steel. If you slowly work through the patina in one area then you can work out from that area with the file digging down under the patina layer and lifting it from below. I've sharpened some tough axes with this method.
Click to expand...

A third thing could be going on as well--the surface finish may be too smooth for the file to easily gain purchase. Try taking a file to a mirror-polished edge (sacrilege, I know!) and it's very likely to simply slip over the glassy surface. Once you establish a slight rough patch for the file to find purchase on it's much smoother sailing from there.
 
Peter Vido is writing up some suggestions for the revised manual, and they will be posted here once his family gets a working computer again. He also recommends that a guy named Lawrence Dowsett be contacted to give input; Lawrence is a former logger and competition chopper from Australia who now lives in Wyoming and has taught Axemanship at the Forest Service training center.
 
Steve Tall said:
Peter Vido is writing up some suggestions for the revised manual, and they will be posted here once his family gets a working computer again. He also recommends that a guy named Lawrence Dowsett be contacted to give input; Lawrence is a former logger and competition chopper from Australia who now lives in Wyoming and has taught Axemanship at the Forest Service training center.
Click to expand...

Nice Steve! I can't wait to see Peters suggestions :)
 
Steve Tall said:
Peter Vido is writing up some suggestions for the revised manual, and they will be posted here once his family gets a working computer again. He also recommends that a guy named Lawrence Dowsett be contacted to give input; Lawrence is a former logger and competition chopper from Australia who now lives in Wyoming and has taught Axemanship at the Forest Service training center.
Click to expand...

Cant wait to read it. A great working knowledge of axes stowed away in his noggin, thats for sure.
 
Yes I agree more on the shaping of older axe that have that tough layer of steel that can seem impossible also more on axe profiles would be nice. Shop safety can be updated like oil covered rages. Other then that it is hard to improve on a already good bit of info
 
I love the old manual, but I would REALLY like to see more in-depth information on sharpening. Specifically, some measurements of the angles/curves around the edge that produce efficient cuts. This is the best resource I have seen on this topic:

http://blueandwhitecrew.org/resources/tips/sharpeningaxes.php

Many of us either are or are friends with machinists. I imagine that with this info, a lot of us could make our axes a lot more efficient, and this would be great for those of us who spend many hours on an axe per day (trail clearing in the bush, etc.)
 
Steve Tall said:
Peter Vido is writing up some suggestions for the revised manual, and they will be posted here once his family gets a working computer again. He also recommends that a guy named Lawrence Dowsett be contacted to give input; Lawrence is a former logger and competition chopper from Australia who now lives in Wyoming and has taught Axemanship at the Forest Service training center.
Click to expand...

Lawrie is , would love to go to the Axe class at 9 mile in the spring.knowledgeable guy.

Thanks for all the responces.Will pass link to this thead to the person updating the manual.
 
catalytic said:
I love the old manual, but I would REALLY like to see more in-depth information on sharpening. Specifically, some measurements of the angles/curves around the edge that produce efficient cuts. This is the best resource I have seen on this topic:

http://blueandwhitecrew.org/resources/tips/sharpeningaxes.php

Many of us either are or are friends with machinists. I imagine that with this info, a lot of us could make our axes a lot more efficient, and this would be great for those of us who spend many hours on an axe per day (trail clearing in the bush, etc.)
Click to expand...

Thats what I think also! More detailed on sharpening like the B/W link and others.
 
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