New Voyager steel question

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Charlie_K

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Jul 16, 2012
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For months on end now, the price of an XL clip point Voyager has been artificially inflated to close to three times its regular price, and that's just ridiculous. But recently that price has come down considerably, at least on the newer version with the new steel.

The new version uses CTS BD-1 alloy, compared to the AUS 8A steel on the older models. Obviously the steel is more cost effective for production, but how does it compare to the AUS 8A and even 4116 steel used on other models, in the areas of edge retention, ease of sharping, and wear/rust resistance? Is it comparable? Superior? Inferior?
 
What do you mean inflated to 3 times it's normal price? If memory serves me right, I was seeing them for right around $70 right after release, and they are going for that or a few dollars less at most places. Where did you come up with this "3 times" number? Are you basing that off of the clearance sale when cold steel was getting rid of old stock, so you could find a lot of the AUS8 models for $30?

I digress...BD-1 is a good bit better than Aus8, and 4116 cannot even begin to compare to BD-1. Everything about it is better, except ease of sharpening, though still being pretty easy to sharpen on something like a sharpmaker. It's generally heat treated to be harder than AUS8 as well.
 
Bought my last BD1 XL Voyager for $59 shipped which seems like a hell of a deal to me. I haven't seen the inflated prices I guess. I much prefer BD1 in nearly every way to AUS8A and I am a fan of AUS8A so that should tell you something.
 
`br4dz- said:
What do you mean inflated to 3 times it's normal price? If memory serves me right, I was seeing them for right around $70 right after release, and they are going for that or a few dollars less at most places. Where did you come up with this "3 times" number? Are you basing that off of the clearance sale when cold steel was getting rid of old stock, so you could find a lot of the AUS8 models for $30?
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A certain big river retailer. For a while the XL clip point was around $50-60, but a number of months ago that price increased to around $150.
 
In my experience so far, Cold Steel has gotten the heat treating process on the Carpenter CTS-BD1 right on!

It takes a very fine edge that lasts and the stain resistance is outstanding.
 
There is no "the price" other than the retail price. The price varies retailer to retailer. I see them for $60-$70.
I think BD1 is better than AUS8 is every way. More stain resistant. Less prone to burring so easier to sharpen and also better edge retention.
The XL Voyager is an awesome knife.
 
In my experience, BD1 takes a very fine edge pretty easily, never rusted, holds it alright, but doesn't really take a polish, more like foggy hazy finish

Sent from the BatComputer
 
Nothing but good experiences with their BD1. Nice fine edge, super stain resistant and decent edge retention.
 
I have a large Voyager in BD1 and found its edge holding to be comparable to my Manix in S110V. Sounds outlandish I know, but it is based on side by side comparison between both knives at the same time. The BD1 took a sharper edge and maintained it's lead in sharpness for an afternoon of garage cleaning. Both were dull at the end, but the Voyager resharpened faster.
 
I saw a graph somewhere. The inference that I took away from it was that BD-1 was slightly superior to AUS8, with increased corrosion resistance levels probably the most significant gain. It looked pretty darn good to me, considering what you get for the price, even up here. I grabbed a couple of Pocket Bushmen in BD-1 before the switch to 4116. Then I read more than once that Krupp 4116 is pretty comparable to the stainless used by Mora I believe. I don't think that any of it is real junk, but, right or wrong, I just can't get myself to buy any 4116. BD-1 or Aus8 seem to be my base line. If you don't have yourself a D-2 Leather Neck, do yourself a solid. It's a good one.
 
4116 is similar to X50CrMov15 steel. Used widely in German chef knives. It is a decent steel. As good or better than CTS BD1. Which is low cost entry level steel.
 
Charlie_K said:
For months on end now, the price of an XL clip point Voyager has been artificially inflated to close to three times its regular price, and that's just ridiculous. But recently that price has come down considerably, at least on the newer version with the new steel.

The new version uses CTS BD-1 alloy, compared to the AUS 8A steel on the older models. Obviously the steel is more cost effective for production, but how does it compare to the AUS 8A and even 4116 steel used on other models, in the areas of edge retention, ease of sharping, and wear/rust resistance? Is it comparable? Superior? Inferior?
Click to expand...

http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php?t=67302

Read the entire thread Charlie. I'm glad that I did, quite informative.
 
Charlie_K said:
A certain big river retailer. For a while the XL clip point was around $50-60, but a number of months ago that price increased to around $150.
Click to expand...

I saw the same thing up here in Canada for a while. But I grabbed the deals when the new steel came out and the AUS8 was being dumped initially. 2 SRK's, two Recon Tanto's, an XL Tanto Recon 1, a D2 Leatherneck, an XL serrated Vaquero, a Marauder etc. All great deals, for up here anyway. The Vaquero was ridiculously reduced and I grabbed one just because. I am long past buying for need/use. I usually just buy for play and variety now. I just got some machetes in and a couple of Pocket Bushmen in BD-1. I am liking the Bushman.
 
MichaelMyers said:
4116 is similar to X50CrMov15 steel. Used widely in German chef knives. It is a decent steel. As good or better than CTS BD1. Which is low cost entry level steel.
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There's steel science chart statements and real world use statements, in real word use BD1 performs much better than a "low cost entry level steel". I bet 90% of people couldn't tell a difference between it and a higher level steel like s30V if they used an unbranded blade for a day. All steel loses it's razor edge, some quicker than others but it's not as drastic as people like to make out on knife forums. Plus edge holding is not everything IMO, i'd prefer decent edge holding and a balanced steel that has great corrosion resistance so i don't have to be so OCD about cleaning off my blade after every cut into something.
 
upnorth said:
http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php?t=67302

Read the entire thread Charlie. I'm glad that I did, quite informative.
Click to expand...

Informative to those that are very educated about the science of steels, but I'm not one of them. But then again I only got into quality knives and stopped looking at the cheap junk about three years ago, so I'm really behind the curve on it all. I know some of the basic steels, but that's about it.
 
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