New Wood for 110's

B

Bucksstophere

Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Messages
203
I have about 10 110s That are nothing too special, a couple of 2 dots, a three dot being the best. I really hate the idea that I have these so cool knives with Plywood Handles/Scales.

Id like to have them all rescaled with real wood provided there is no big downside to it. Im not looking to use African free range Cocobola or anything too exotic-just real non laminate wood

Does this sound like a good idea? Any recommendations as to who would be best for this task? Thanks.

Oh- And when was the last year that 'real wood' was used on the 110s. Thanks




Buckss
 
Bucksstophere said:
I have about 10 110s That are nothing too special, a couple of 2 dots, a three dot being the best. I really hate the idea that I have these so cool knives with Plywood Handles/Scales.

Id like to have them all rescaled with real wood provided there is no big downside to it. Im not looking to use African free range Cocobola or anything too exotic-just real non laminate wood

Does this sound like a good idea? Any recommendations as to who would be best for this task? Thanks.

Oh- And when was the last year that 'real wood' was used on the 110s. Thanks





Buckss
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I believe that they changed from the ebony to the laminate around 1994.

Tom
 
Bucksstophere said:
African free range Cocobola or anything too exotic-just real non laminate wood
Buckss
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LOL I have yet to see a free-ranging wood :D

The custom shop still offers non-laminates. That'd be the best bet IMO.

Some laminates are high quality, especially for user knives, because they are more dimensionally stable and less likely to warp or crack under various humidities, temperatures, etc. Rolls-Royce-BMW motor cars use laminates on their interiors for this reason.

Still, I have a fond place in my heart for solids, like the old Macassar Ebony and various exotics.
 
T Schloz said:
I believe that they changed from the ebony to the laminate around 1994.

Tom
Click to expand...


Thanks-Im about as handy as a pile of fiberglass at a Poison Ivy Convention, but i think i will buy a total Beater and take it apart and see what i can do myself if anything.
 
Flatlander has done a bunch of them, and they turn out really nice.
IIRC, he mentioned some time back that there was a learning curve to put them together correctly
 
Bucksstops, Leroy has a lot of the Macassar ebony on hand which is the correct wood for those knives . You might contact him to obtain a quote . triple-r-knives@cox.net
He did some slab replacements for some of mine and it turned out super . DM
 
wolfdog said:
Two and three dot knives should be Macassar Ebony, not laminates.
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Yeah- I wont screw with them most likely- I cleaned up the real wood ones with Murphy's Oil Soap. I think i can post a pic-I dont think the wood looks good at all. I would love to have an Oak Handle like on that 'Indian' 110 someone procured lately. Anyway here they are. Maybe i was expecting too much. For real wood, i think they should look much better.

Upload 'failed'. Hopefully this URL will work for you.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/daveygravy/4373346509/
 
Bucksstophere said:
Yeah- I wont screw with them most likely- I cleaned up the real wood ones with Murphy's Oil Soap. I think i can post a pic-I dont think the wood looks good at all. I would love to have an Oak Handle like on that 'Indian' 110 someone procured lately. Anyway here they are. Maybe i was expecting too much. For real wood, i think they should look much better.

Upload 'failed'. Hopefully this URL will work for you.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/daveygravy/4373346509/
Click to expand...

Hi Bucksstop,

The handles in your photo is just what real wood looks like! Most of the handles from this material looked just like yours. Every now and then you will get one with wonderful looking grain. But not often. If you want some nice fancy looking wood on your 110's send them out for new shoe's. I think they look fine as is, put a finish on them so they shine a little more.

Here are some old beater 110's some have nice grain some dont.
click the pic 2x to make it bigger

jb4570
 
Bucksstophere said:
Yeah- I wont screw with them most likely- I cleaned up the real wood ones with Murphy's Oil Soap. I think i can post a pic-I dont think the wood looks good at all. I would love to have an Oak Handle like on that 'Indian' 110 someone procured lately. Anyway here they are. Maybe i was expecting too much. For real wood, i think they should look much better.

Upload 'failed'. Hopefully this URL will work for you.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/daveygravy/4373346509/
Click to expand...

Buckstop,

you lost me I think, I know you dont like ocheebee laminate scales. But you do or do not like the Macassar Eb shown in the photos? I am really beginning to agree on the laminate, I was just thinking about that last night in the car on the way home. I do however love the Mac Eb. Just recieve a 3 dot 112 yesterday when I got home, cleaned it up and its beautiful including the wood.(pics will follow later)
 
imafritz said:
Buckstop,

you lost me I think, I know you dont like ocheebee laminate scales. But you do or do not like the Macassar Eb shown in the photos? I am really beginning to agree on the laminate, I was just thinking about that last night in the car on the way home. I do however love the Mac Eb. Just recieve a 3 dot 112 yesterday when I got home, cleaned it up and its beautiful including the wood.(pics will follow later)
Click to expand...


Yeah- Im sorry-not being too clear and a little wishy washy as well which i think is the main issue. I think that the 3 "real wood" 110s just dont look that great to me. The fact that I KNOW they are real wood mitigates that slightly but still Im not crazy about them. So what i would do is re-scale some of the newer laminate ones with some nice wood and see how they turn out and then maybe redo the others (pictured) despite that they are "real wood" already.

So just your personal opinion please -Do you think the Real wood on the earlier models like those pictured, looks terrific? I dont. I expected more when i cleaned up that wood. Looks no better than the laminates to me.
 
imafritz said:
Nice beaters jb esp the top and bottom
Click to expand...

Hi Fritz,

Thanks, I was going to clean these and polish them. However, decided I liked the used beater look better. I whish the old knives could talk :), oh the stories they would tell;).
jb4570
 
yes i vote for solid, but stabilized or impregnated solid wood
some of the custom LE's are stabilized solid burl and sweet looking!
yes some of the formites here do fantastic work!
all i do is rubber buckies...
 
Hey while were on the topic of woods, that AG in S30v that I just picked up has Rosewood scales. Does anyone know if they are a laminate or solid?
 
Bucksstophere said:
So just your personal opinion please -Do you think the Real wood on the earlier models like those pictured, looks terrific? I dont. I expected more when i cleaned up that wood. Looks no better than the laminates to me.
Click to expand...

I know this question was directed to someone else, but IMO:

Ebony is a dense hardwood that can take a beating. The grain does not have an attractive figure like some woods (Zebrawood, Tulipwood, Paduak...) but it is stable and can take a beating. I have an old beater-user no-dot 110 that was obviously used as a hammer by the previous user, and the wood held up better than the brass. Traditionally, the blacker and more solid the color of ebony, the more desirable. It's the wood that is used for fingerboards on the high-end guitars. I'm sure Buck originally chose it for its functional qualities. Buck also used lignum vitae in the early days, but I don't think on 110s, Lignum vitae predated the 110.

Lignum vitae was so dense it was used on machine parts in the 19th century, but in the mid-late 20th cent its import was outlawed as the wood was becoming endangered. Ebony then replaced lignum vitae for industrial use.

IMO ebony has its own distinctive beauty that contrasts nicely with other woods in fine woodworking.
 
Sean, I'm pretty sure they are laminates .
Wolf, I really like the Macassar Ebony over the obeechee . They have different color and character on each knife some dark chocolate some lighter still hard and dense . These woods are becoming costly as well . So, to me getting them on a earlier knife is like a up grade plus the better steel that comes with them is another plus . DM
 
wolfdog said:
I know this question was directed to someone else, but IMO:

Ebony is a dense hardwood that can take a beating. The grain does not have an attractive figure like some woods (Zebrawood, Tulipwood, Paduak...) but it is stable and can take a beating. I have an old beater-user no-dot 110 that was obviously used as a hammer by the previous user, and the wood held up better than the brass. Traditionally, the blacker and more solid the color of ebony, the more desirable. It's the wood that is used for fingerboards on the high-end guitars. I'm sure Buck originally chose it for its functional qualities. Buck also used lignum vitae in the early days, but I don't think on 110s, Lignum vitae predated the 110.

Lignum vitae was so dense it was used on machine parts in the 19th century, but in the mid-late 20th cent its import was outlawed as the wood was becoming endangered. Ebony then replaced lignum vitae for industrial use.

IMO ebony has its own distinctive beauty that contrasts nicely with other woods in fine woodworking.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tons for your answer. Perhaps once you appreciate its 'take a beating' qualities, they start to look better. I guess im just not there yet. Im a pool player (barely) and the wood used in the better cues always looks great and that's what i think of when considering anything made of wood. I wont trade my original 110 (far right) but the other two i would love to give away and get something more to my taste. For instance, id give the other two and $120 for that 'Oak Indian' i saw on here recently.

PS- I hate Sundays-NO bucks arrive at my door.:grumpy:
 
David Martin said:
Wolf, I really like the Macassar Ebony over the obeechee . They have different color and character on each knife some dark chocolate some lighter still hard and dense . These woods are becoming costly as well . So, to me getting them on a earlier knife is like a up grade plus the better steel that comes with them is another plus . DM
Click to expand...

DM, I agree. I'm convinced that the previous owner of my beater 110 was a Neanderthal. The way it was used as a hammer and the way the blade was worn/ground down. But that ebony held up. Buck recently refurbished that knife for me. I like the old ebony handled knives, too. The best way to get those in new condition is to look for the blades with art etchings. And the
440C steel is like you say an upgrade from the later production blades.

I have a solid jet-black block of 6X5 inch by 5 foot Ebony that some day I may trade with a custom knife maker in exchange for putting ebony scales on a couple of my favorite knives.

Bucksstophere; If I come across a knife that may be to your liking, I'll make an offer.

Yeah, Sundays,... I have a few new Bucks that should be arriving this coming week.
 
Bucksstophere said:
Yeah- Im sorry-not being too clear and a little wishy washy as well which i think is the main issue. I think that the 3 "real wood" 110s just dont look that great to me. The fact that I KNOW they are real wood mitigates that slightly but still Im not crazy about them. So what i would do is re-scale some of the newer laminate ones with some nice wood and see how they turn out and then maybe redo the others (pictured) despite that they are "real wood" already.

So just your personal opinion please -Do you think the Real wood on the earlier models like those pictured, looks terrific? I dont. I expected more when i cleaned up that wood. Looks no better than the laminates to me.
Click to expand...

I got no problem with rescaling the laminate-actually they are all yours to do with what you want of course and different wood may make you a very happy buckaroo. Its hard to tell the graining of your ebobys cause your pics are yellow like mine always are, but it looks like mine look before I oil em. Try some Hoppes gun kit oil on them, just a light coat and then check em the next day-It seems to draw the grain out a little. Im ecstatic with how mine turned out. Gonna go outside and try and take some nonyellow pics right now since its a nice day here finally.

Here they are:



 
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