New Years Resolution - Build a knife!

K

KaosX

Joined
Jan 3, 2011
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Ok, decided that my resolution for 2012 is to build a knife.

Instead of trying to make some off the wall weird knife for martial arts I'm just going to go with some kind of basic knife. If I can get that right maybe I'll make something else later.

My family knew that I had wanted a new belt grinder (I dabble in kydex from time to time and it would be easier than my dremel) so I have the 1x30 from harbor freight. I haven't ordered any belts yet.

I have an assortment of files. I haven't really decided on handle material.

Things I need to order or figure out

1. Steel. I'm thinking 1084 based on numerous recommendations in various threads.
2. Belts - what grits etc?
3. paper for finishing work?
4. Handle material - thinking micarta...but not sure.
5. heat treat?

I know I can figure most of that out from the stickies. I just figured I'd chronicle the build in this thread. I'll probably order the steel soon.
 
i definitely reccomend that you do it is an amazing hobby and if you continue it can be a good business haha i look forward to seeing you post a follow up
 
before you order steel, make a design of what you want. then make it different sizes until it looks right. then order the steel. also, go thinner than you would think. I wound that I could have put some 1 1/2 x 1/8 to better use than the 1 1/2 x 3/16ths that I got. both work, and the 3/16ths is nice, but isn't optimal for anything smaller than a 10-12 inch bowie.
 
If you plan to send your blades out for heat treatment it would be smart to pick the place you intend to use and see which steels they treat, then buy that steel.

If you intend to do your own heat treating then 1080 is the most forgiving steel.

I recommend 1/8" steel.

I'm glad that you plan to start with smaller, simpler designs and save the zombie-choppers and multi-purpose, tacti-cool, compound grind designs for when you have a little experience under your belt.

Micarta makes nice handles. Dymond wood, and other wood-based products like them make durable and nice looking handles.

I suspect that initially you will need mostly 40 - 80 grit belts for grinding the bevels of the blade. What I'm thinking is that you will start with the rough grind then switch to files and hand sanding because you aren't likely to have the skill to finish the blade completely with the belt grinder.

Following my imaginary scenario you will need sheet sandpaper of 120, 220, 320, 400, and 600. If you want to go for a real high polish then you will need 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit paper.

- Paul Meske
 
Thanks for the tips guys! So far I think I want to build something similar to the cold steel SRK

38CK_Cold_Steel_SRK_Survival_Rescue_Knife.jpg


Any concerns with something in that general shape for a beginner?
 
Hey, that's my New Year's Resolution too. It's good to have company. I should be cutting my blank out this weekend and starting on hand grinding. Good luck.
 
So I ended up giving my daughter my money that I had received for Christmas so she could get the one thing she wanted but didn't get (my wife pitched hers in too). I'll have to wait on ordering the steel a bit. I do however have the grinder set up and started working some grinding practice in on some worn out files that I had laying around.

No joke it's tough to be consistent with all around for my skill level...and definitely moves the metal faster than I had expected.

Here's my first time trying to grind without files. It's from my ipod though so it's a bit grainy. Will have to up the settings and re-take later.

24ca14e5.jpg


One thing I will say (and just a guess at my level) is that the gap between the belt when it's moving and the platen is off to get used to. The platen itself sucks too...going to have to attach something there so the plunges will look more uniform.

On that subject since I'm flipping the blade over to work the grind on each side - i would need to make sure the platen is uniform on both sides so when I adjust the tracking the belt folds over the same so it cuts the plunges more uniform....right?

At any rate...fun stuff. Can't wait to get some 1084 and work something that's designed on paper front to end!
 
Soften that file if you haven't already. It will make it possible to use less pressure, which will translate into smoother grinds. Even a lousy platen can be coaxed to give decent grinds with some practice, as long as your materials and belts are in appropriate conditions (soft & sharp respectively).

I've ground bevels with 60-120 grit belts on a 1x42 and will do it again.
Great start, Keep practicing!

-Daizee
 
Well ... won't have room int he budget for steel until march...so it's just going to be practice on mild steel with the intent on working on my grinding technique. I did, however, have a knife that I didn't mind grinding on to get the feel for it. This is probably the 2nd or 3rd piece of steel I've taken to the grinder. I added the smaller flat grind to the other side of this skinner to make it a double edged knife.

SAM_0988.jpg


SAM_0991.jpg


SAM_0989.jpg


I need to tweak the tracking on this so I can get the plunge lines uniform/clean on each side. More work on a solid flat...there are some spots I can see where I moved or something ever so slightly.

I would gladly welcome any feedback, bad or good.

ETA: Ground the bevels on an 80 grit HF brand zirconia belt, finished with the belt that came with it (120 grit I think). I also use that for forming the edge...taking it to the stones sometime tonight or tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
tryppyr said:
Seems a shame to make such a pretty knife out of mild steel.
Click to expand...

That was a stainless skinning knife in what the package said was 440c...It was like 5 bucks, I just modified the other side of it. I was my first full build to be from good steel, so for now I'll just play the waiting game and work on my grinds. My birthday in march should allow me enough for a couple blades worth of steel I would imagine :)
 
Good looking simple design,good for a first one.Should be doable.
Stan
 
Use a drill it on a flat surface,hold the drill bit still and move the blade along it.
Stan
 
I don't like the drill bit method. I put a hobby blade in between the pages of a phone book. This allows for better control of the height of the line. Ymmv.

Chris
 
So - here we go!

Stan was super kind and sent me everything I'd need to make a couple blades!

f73abb37.jpg


I drew up this pattern...the pattern was reverse edged, but I'll be making it normally. One of my daughters decided she needed to add her flair to the template.

3d94a52a.jpg



All cut out. Note that I have big hands and had to make the tang a bit longer to accomodate.

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I actually was too excited and worked on it for about 6 hours solid and didnt take any pics. I have it profiled, a distal taper ground in and I'm working on making the flats flatter.

More pics to come!
 
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