New Zealand South Island Fishing / Camping Road Trip - November 2015. Pictures!!

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This is re-posted from BushcraftUK, where I put it first, but I thought it would be nice to share it with folk here. I like sharing my holiday pictures, but thought it might also help someone thinking of taking a similar trip. Hope you enjoy!

Chris. :)


New Zealand South Island:- Two week fishing/camping road trip.

DSC03020 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

Visiting New Zealand was something I had dreamed of doing for many years, however it seemed such a long way off, literally and figuratively, that I stalled and never really put effort into planning such a trip. I told myself that I didn’t want to do the trip alone, that I wanted someone to travel with, and no such person ever materialised. This last year though, some friends said they would like to see New Zealand too, and suddenly the prospect of a trip seemed a lot closer and more real. After a bit of planning on my part, my friends realised they had insufficient time or funds and so pulled out. I nearly shelved the idea again at that point, but am glad that I did not, instead choosing to go ahead alone.

Travelling with friends has many advantages, sharing costs, sharing driving and cooking, having people to talk to and share the experience, and maybe most of all, not having to be the sole inspiration for activities every day. I realised though that travelling without companions still had one big advantage; no need to consider whether what you want to do suits others. Even though I hadn’t fly fished for over 15 years (closer to 20!) there was no way I was going to visit New Zealand without wetting a line, and with only myself to worry about there would be no one to complain if I felt like wetting a line in every ditch and puddle I passed!

The lack of planning that went into this trip ensured that it had to happen in the final quarter of the year, and my friends’ input before pulling out aimed me at November. The weather can be changeable at that time of year, most of the people I met told me that I should have visited in May when there are more sunny days, but on the other hand its close to the start of the fishing season, and the fish are not nearly so wary. Being out of practice for 15 years, I reckoned I wanted all the advantage I could get!

I couldn’t spare more than two weeks for the tour, which is far too little to do New Zealand justice, so I limited what I tried to see. I didn’t want to be driving all day, every day, and wanted to leave plenty to see on any future trip that I might make.

I flew out on the evening of Friday 6th November, 11 hours to Hong Kong, 5 hour lay-over, then another 11 hours to Auckland, a 1.5 hour transfer (which was about 45mins too short for comfort) and an hour and a bit domestic flight to Christchurch, arriving middle of Sunday the 8th!

NZ Routemap2 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

Day 1-3
Monday morning morning, still far from sure what time zone my body thought that it was in, I met up with fishing guide Chris Bell of http://www.adventureflyfishingnz.com, left my rental car at his house, and headed off to see if we could find some un-educated trout.

First stop was up on the Broken River, just off the road up towards Arthurs Pass. It wasn’t a great day for photos, kind of overcast. None of my pictures of Castle Hill as we passed are worth showing.
DSC02900 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
It was up here that I got my first look at the infamous New Zealand sand fly. Not the sort of place a visitor would necessarily think would be buggy, but it is. The only thing that keeps them away is when the wind is really blowing.

Someone with no sense of etiquette jumped in upstream of us just as we were setting up and proceeded to scare off all the fish ahead of us, so we didn’t stay long. We stopped at a couple of places along the way towards the angling club “hut” we were to stay in at Lake Clearwater. The Rakaia River its gorge bridge was quite something. Water is blue as a result of glacial flour, fine ground rock, which allows greater scattering of light. The water looks blue for the same reason the sky does. It really looks like someone has dyed it!

DSC02915 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

We arrived at the hut in the dark, so it wasn’t until morning that I could see the view. It’s a popular spot and there is practically a whole village of holiday baches and caravans. Not hard to see why though.

DSC02919 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

Just up the gravel road we tried to tempt something out of Lake Heron. I got broken off, no other takes, it was hard fishing in very strong winds. Mind you, not catching wholly wild fish in such surroundings beats hauling in stock fish all day in some murky gravel pit :D
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Lake Heron is just around the corner from Mt. Sunday, where they built the Edoras set for Lord of the Rings. This was the only Lord of the Rings / Hobbit filming location that I particularly wanted to see. I did see others, but this was the only one I went out of my way for.

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That was the warmest day of the whole trip, up to around 23degC.

From there, we headed down to a rather less spectacular area near Geraldine to try our luck in the Orari and Opihi. More hard fishing, and rather wet and colder weather.

IMG_0335 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

The denser trees around the river made me think we would be eaten alive by sandfly, but didn’t see any at all. Did see a lot of interesting things growing on trees. Not really sure if these were lichen or air plants!

IMG_0332 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

Nice brown trout from the Opihi
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All the fish I caught were returned with care. Rather hard for someone who likes his ponassed trout, but although the fish grow large, there are not many of them and catch-and-release is encouraged. There are also a lot of restrictions regarding camp fires, and trying to cook even a small trout on a camping gas burner would be absurd.

After finishing my three days with Chris Bell, he let me stay at his house, which was really going above and beyond!
 
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Day 4

Didn’t make an early start, far from it actually. I spent half the day running errands around Christchurch, picking up food, maps, and some fishing gear. I finally got on the road around 2pm, so I shouldn’t have been surprised that I didn’t make it as far as I had hoped to before it was late and time to find somewhere to camp again.


The day had started in Christchurch with cold squally showers and there was cloud and rain moving up from the south, but once over the first ridge of mountains, the weather changed and brightened up. I followed the same scenic route that I had taken with Chris, so went back passed the Rakia River gorge, this time managing to take a picture of the area

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Lake Tekapo in the evening light
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Weather from the east following me over the mountains.

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New Zealand doesn’t do scenery by halves. Just a few miles down the road, another similarly stunning lake vista. Lake Pukaki and Mt Cook in the background

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I had hoped to get as far as the Ahuriri river crossing, passed Twizel, but it was getting too late so I took the easy option of camping in the Twizel Holiday Park. The clear air promised a cold night.


Day 5

Dang cold. Needed both my Jack-R-Better down quilt, AND my DIY under quilt, used one on top of the other in the tent. Got up fairly early to go try catching one of the big trout that live in the Pukaki hydro canal. Car thermometer said it was 4degC. I did see a trout but didn’t catch anything, no one was catching, so don’t believe all the videos on Youtube! Not really the side of New Zealand that everyone thinks of, but a canal with fast flowing, glacial melt turquoise water, containing trout of 20+lbs was too much of a novelty to pass by! Another poor morning for photos, this was the best I could get. Still, no question that I wasn’t stood next to a UK canal ;)

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Not far south, just before Omarama, State Highway 8 crosses the Ahuriri River and there is a DOC campsite that had looked promising from maps and reviews. Looked a lot less good in person. Glad I chose to stay at Twizel.

IMG_0368 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

The Ahuriri River was quite something; braided over a shingle and stone bed, fast, clear and blue with wide expanses of lupines growing on the neighbouring flats. It was here that I saw a pair of the endangered black stilt or Kaki. I didn’t know it at the time, but this is probably the rarest creature I am ever likely to see in the wild.

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This stretch of river is said to have a good population of trout, but clearly the trout had not read this and were elsewhere on the day I was fishing. I did find one brown trout with a reckless streak (returned him too), not a big fish, but a hard fighter and very silvery.

Following the road southwest towards Queenstown I went through the Lindis Pass, which had some great views.
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Its only after you have topped the pass that you realise how high you were. Twizel is about 456m, the pass 930m and from there it is 77km all downhill to Cromwell way at the south end of Lake Dustan at just 210m.


Day 6

I camped at a place called Bannockburn and took a drive up the Nevis Road, which I had heard was the highest maintained public road in New Zealand, sounded fun. It was pretty steep, all dirt and nothing to stop you rolling off the edge. :D
The views were worth it, but it was DANG cold up there!! I don’t know what the actual temperature was, but the wind had me digging out windproof over-trousers, two jackets and gloves.

There is a very picturesque sign at the top of the ridge:
NEVIS ROAD
DUFFERS SADDLE
Reaches 1300m Elevation
Highest public road in NZ
Affected by adverse weather​

I can’t help but think the last bit is akin to a sign in a similar spot stating “Warning! You are on a mountain!” Duh ;)
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My faithful steed
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All the plants are pretty short up on these high ridges. Anyone want to have a guess at how tall these bushes are?
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Okay, that was a little misleading of me! They aren’t bushes, they are lichen, and they are about 30mm tall, which makes them giants compared to most rock growing lichens that I have found.
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As fun as the tops were, I didn’t linger too long. Too cold, and I had some distance to travel yet.

From Cromwell, the road to Queenstown follwos the Kawarau river, site of the first permanent bungee jumping site in NZ. No, I wasn't even slightly tempted to give it a try!

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In this valley I saw a strange sight, a whole forest of dead trees. When I pulled up at the over-look spot I found information boards that explained that these were “wildings”, unwanted non-native trees that threatened to take over the landscape from the native brush and tussock. A combination of felling and aerial spraying was being used to control their spread.
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A few days later I met a guy who told me about some walkers who were caught by blown spray while 2km downwind of a similar control area. Nasty chemicals that you don’t want on your skin.

Same day, just a few mountains away, Lake Wakatipu in an angry mood at Queenstown....
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On the way up the lake I had a look at the 10-Mile Delta campsite, which wile sheltered wasn’t really all that picturesque (apart from the backdrop) ;).
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The trouble with driving as a visitor in NZ is that you keep rounding corners and finding imperative reasons to stop and take pictures!
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At far north end of the lake, calm at the Kinloch camp site. Opposite Glenorchy, where the Dart River enters Lake Wakatipu. Do you think there might have been a few displaced Scots naming places?

DSC03201 by Last Scratch, on Flickr


Day 7

At 4am I was awakened by the wretched wind swinging around. Gusts of up to 39kmph, according to the weather news. The lovely calm, sheltered camp site was just the opposite with the change in wind direction. Rain, wind and snow on the higher elevations. So much for sunny spring time!

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Left the tent up and went inland a little to try fishing Lake Silvan, which is surrounded by thick native bush and black beech forest. No wind. Met several pairs of very friendly native robins.

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Wearing the very height of fashion! Shorts and poly-pro leggings. Fast drying, and sand fly defeating! Not too many flies in the forest, except for the area around where the path first reached the lake, where most of the warm blooded visitors stopped and stared around ;) The fish continued to exhibit a depressing lack of interest in my efforts.
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There’s another location for both Hobbit and LOTR at a place called Paradise, not far from where I was camping, so I went had a look at that area too. Not a lot to see from the road, but the frequent tour bus traffic has generated some fearsome road corrugations. Either drive at 5kph, or at 60kph. Faster and you might slide of the road and anything in between will all but shake your car to bits!
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The fish in Diamond Lake, just off the Paradise road, were similarly disinterested by the time I got there, although a couple of local chaps had had some luck.
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View from camp. On the East side of the mountains, this was about as good a sunset as I got.
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Day 8

Next morning was a bit chilly!
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I was in Kinloch to meet up with local guide Gordy Watson http://www.trout-stalkers.co.nz/. I chose the site thinking it was near Glenorchy, which seemed to be where he was from. It was only later that I learned that while he was local born and bred, he now lived beyond the far side of Queenstown.

The plan up to that morning was to hike up a river, fishing, camp over night, hike/fish a bit more, then turn around and march downstream, not fishing. Gordy had asked me if I was interested in a helicopter pick up, but I balked at the price. On the morning he picked me up he said he had been talking to the pilot he worked with on other trips, and we could get a pick up on the pilot's way back from doing something else, at a somewhat reduced rate, and did I want to do it? No hurry, but an answer was needed before we went out of cell phone coverage at the trail head, 15 minutes…no pressure.

Having started cold, the day soon warmed up and under Gordy’s direction I somehow managed to hook and land this beauty.

IMG_0406 by Last Scratch, on Flickr
Gordy joked that having caught a nice fish so early, he could relax and take it easy from there on! He was only joking! We caught a number of very feisty rainbows throughout the rest of the day, none were all that big, but man did they pull hard. I read about fish “tail walking” but had never actually seen it until that day.

DSC03365 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

The trout had finished the spawn, but the males still had the pronounced kypes on their lower jaws, and very prominent teeth. The fish seemed to be less particular than those I had encountered earlier in the trip, Gordy used bigger flies than Chris, and one of the more successful was some monstrous thing with rubber legs that looked like nothing on earth. Wasn’t the craziest thing we threw though.

DSC03338 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

While skirting an unfishable section Gordy insisted that we take a little detour-scramble which I wasn’t sure about, but he was right, it was WORTH it for the view even though climbing up through the trees with a 9-foot rod was interesting ;)

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This is where we camped, surrounded by beech forest.

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The beech were all in flower, which promises a huge mast crop in the autumn, and a corresponding explosion of mice, which will in turn mean the trout put on pounds. The beech were flowering like this all over the south. I had heard it was a mouse year in 2014, but Gordy said that was mostly further north.

Beech leaves by Last Scratch, on Flickr

In this idyllic looking spot, the sandflies were rather bad, almost worse than I saw anywhere else. Interestingly, they seemed to like Gordy more than me! He did say that in Fjordland there could be so many they sound like rain on the tent fly, we were a good way short of that.
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Fortunately, they don't fly at night, so we had a bit of a respite while we ate dinner and watched the stars. Gordy was looking for satellites when we saw the ISS go over. Kinda hard to miss, brighter and faster than anything else in the sky. The stars were very bright, but you had to wait a long while for them to show, and the Milky Way didn’t show as it did in Namibia in June.

Gordy had been saying we would try night fishing with a mouse fly. For those of you who know about fly fishing, you will understand that throwing a deer hair mouse on a #6 weight, in the dark, is almost funny.
Worked though!


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We were both tired, so having landed this monster we unanimously called it quits, it was gone 11pm on a long day.




Day 9

Next day we cached our camping kit and carried on going light.

I should say at this point, that any success I was having was more down to Gordy’s direction than any skill on my part! He was generally encouraging, but only after being critical and pushing me to do better. My lack of practice still showed, even though we used shorter leaders than I did with Chris. I managed some simply spectacular tangles! The wind was almost always blowing hard downstream. There was one point at which I recognized I wasn’t going to manage the cast and asked Gordy to try. :D

IMG_0417 by Last Scratch, on Flickr

I think I would have been happy for him to have fished more than he did, but both Gordy and Chris insisted that they were out there to help me catch fish, not catch them themselves.

Given the results, I cannot really fault that.

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This could be the biggest fish I have ever caught, it is certainly the best. It’s not big enough to be considered a trophy for New Zealand, but it is for me!

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It was at this point of the day that Gordy remarked that in such surroundings, “fishing” isn’t just about casting and catching fish, just being in the place is part of the experience.
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All too soon we had gone as far as we would or could go and it was time to turn around and head back down stream…. But we wouldn’t be doing it on foot. :D

[video=youtube;cfHIqfVwn0M]


Back at camp, the wind still blowing!

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Good stars when there isn't cloud cover, but there was so much wind that it was a huge challenge to get the camera to sit still!

Day 10

Although I tried fishing in a few other places from here on, that was the last success I had with NZs fish. Guides are well worth it!

Next up, back down Wakatipu in great looking weather, but actually rather cold. T-shirt in the car, pull over and wind breaker outside it.

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The Remarkables
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The road from Queenstown to Wanaka has some fun bends, just visible at left of picture.
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Lake Hawea was even more of a spectacular blue than Wakatipu
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Heading over the Haast pass to the west coast.
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Mouth of the Haast River
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It was a long drive but the weather forecast for the following days showed heavy rain moving north and I wanted to cover some distance in the fine weather.

I got to Fox Glacier at about 6:45pm. I had never seen a glacier, but hadn’t ever wanted to do as some friends had done and actually walk on one, so a walk up the valley floor to an overlook point was fine with me.
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The leading edge of the ice was pretty grubby but its retreating and the melt is exposing the sediment.
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I made it up to Lake Mapourika to camp for the night, but it was a very long day and passed dark by the time I was set up.
This was on the 18th. On the 21st a pilot and his six tourist passengers died when their helicopter crashed in poor weather on the glacier.
 
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Day 11

It rained in the night and after the long drive I wasn’t in a hurry. A pity since the bush around Mapourika is THICK, there wasn’t a lot to explore without going serious bush busting. No trails or paths around the lake.
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Not really a lot of photos from the day, it was kind of bright, but overcast, so the light wasn’t good for pictures for much of the day. I was heading up to meet some old family friends in Hokitika and having agreed a rough time to arrive, my time was not really my own.

The high point for the day was stopping in at The Bushmans Centre at Pukekura. Sadly I had spent too much time walking down to the mouth of the Wanganui River, so arrived just as they were shutting at 5:00pm.
http://www.pukekura.co.nz/population/index.htm
http://www.randomhouse.co.nz/books/peter-salter/pete-the-bushman-9781775536826.aspx
Peter and Justine Salter are real characters and for anyone from this site their Centre should be on your list to visit.

The landscape of the Westcoast is very different from the eastern side of the mountains. Lots more rain for one thing. The ground is very stony, someone described it as being one long strip of river shingle with a skin of soil!
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Day 12

Here comes the rain! Fortunately I was staying in a spare room of our friends’ house in Kokatahi, outside Hokitika. I know, staying in a house is cheating when you are meant to be camping, but they had the space, and I couldn’t have passed without visiting ;)

From there I did a day trip to the Hokitika Gorge in the pouring rain
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Round the back roads passed the scenic Lake Kaniere (pronounced canary).
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Dorothy Falls
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Up to the Punakaiki pancake rocks which are strangely eroded sandstone formations on the sea.
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I am told that this area of the West Coast can be spectacular, but with the rain and low cloud, the best I could get was “moody”. Lol.

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Day 13

I am told that the time to visit the West Coast is in the New Zealand winter. Seems strange, but they say that’s when they get most sun, that the weather comes more from the east, so dumps its rain on the other side of the mountains. In the summer, when the weather comes from the west, the West Coast gets wet! I was quite glad to drive back over Arthur’s Pass into the drier, and sunnier weather of the East.


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Day 14+


My last day touring the South Island was not the last day of my trip, since I went on to spend a day on the North Island with an emigrated friend from university, and then went and spent three days in Hong Kong with another friend. Guess that’s probably the best closing picture.

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very awesome pictures. Looks like an amazing trip and some dang fine fish caught! thank you for sharing
 
I've dreamt of this trip for some time. Thanks for all your effort and sharing your trip.:thumbup::cool:
 
Very nice trip, love the photos.

I was there in October 2014, two weeks on the North Island and two weeks on the South Island. On the South Island I followed just about the same route as you did but I started in Picton and ended in Christchurch.

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Frans
 
Lovely photo Frans. I definitely want to go back, but think I would need a couple of months to see all I want without it being a rush. Two weeks for what I did wasn't bad, but I don't think I would have wanted to try to fit much more in.
 
Thank you for sharing. My wife and I did the South Island a couple of years ago. We landed in Christchurch, then went via Arthurs Pass to Fox Glacier, then on to Haast (where we were stuck for a night due to a landslide), then on to Wanaka, Queenstown, Oamaru and back to Christchurch.

It's a beautiful country. Thank you for bringing back the memories :)
 
Ive always wanted to travel there since a child. wonderful photos and a great read, thank you!
 
Lovely photo Frans. I definitely want to go back, but think I would need a couple of months to see all I want without it being a rush. Two weeks for what I did wasn't bad, but I don't think I would have wanted to try to fit much more in.

If you do go back, make sure that you visit the North Island as well. The South Island is of course famous for its scenery but the North Island is just as beautiful.

View over Auckland from One Tree Hill
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View towards Auckland harbor from Mount Victoria, Devonport
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Bay of Islands, Waitangi Treaty Grounds
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Coromandel, Cathedral Cove
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Rotorua, Wai-O-Tapu
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Rotorua, Tepuia
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Frans
 
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we got one hell of a beautiful earth. Wish I had 10 life times to see some of it.
 
Wife grew up in New Zealand. We enjoyed the pics. I'm looking forward to one day visiting there. Thanks for the tour. Nice fish
 
awesome pics! you have good taste in backpacks too...and thanks for designing the bushcraftuk handle - still the most comfortable handle i've ever tried :)
 
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