Newbie help!!!!

M

Menomena

Joined
Jul 13, 2009
Messages
7
Hey all, a new member to the forum hailing from down under. Been doing some research over the past couple of months for a good fixed knife for the military, and have reached the decision to buy a Busse. A couple of quick questions

1) How hard is it to find a good Battle mistress? Possibly a later model one too

2) Is it possible to order a Tank Buster with bare steel? Not really interested in the coating, will be cleaning my knives probably every other day alongside firearms

3) Any recommendations??
 
I think a Battle Mistress would be a great knife. Best of luck to you and I hope you will post pics when you get your INFI to this post. Maybe even try it out and show some actions shots and a review from the standpoint of it meeting your needs and desires as a military knife. See you soon---Joe
 
For the Tankbuster, a double-cut finish would give you bare INFI and be non-reflective.
Pete
 
Menomena said:
Hey all, a new member to the forum hailing from down under. Been doing some research over the past couple of months for a good fixed knife for the military, and have reached the decision to buy a Busse. A couple of quick questions

1) How hard is it to find a good Battle mistress? Possibly a later model one too

2) Is it possible to order a Tank Buster with bare steel? Not really interested in the coating, will be cleaning my knives probably every other day alongside firearms

3) Any recommendations??
Click to expand...

Welcome the the Busse world! :thumbup:

1. The CG FBM (the one with the funny grooves) is probably plenty strong enough, and is the lightest of the newer generation Mistresses.

2. Yes you can get Satin or Double Cut Bead Blast (DCBB) which will be more subdued.

3. Are you able to carry something as large as an FBM? Where in Oz are you? There may be some hogs near you.
 
My battle mistress vote is for the NMFBM (LE if you really need the satin finish, but it's a lot more $$$). My favorite Busse and the one I use the most - great chopper. I love the FFBM too.
 
Thanks for all the replies, seems I am in good hands. :)

I live in Adelaide at the moment, but might be moving soon, we shall see.

As far as carrying a BM, shouldn't be too much of an issue. Wearing patrol order, I usually have at least one leg free. Should be more than enough room to carry it.

And before the question may arise, perhaps BM is not the most suitable weapon to use over in Afghanistan, but will come in handy in pretty much every other theatre cooking at the moment, and will obviously come into its own during the weeklong outdoor navigation training ops.

Thinking of getting a couple of knives for different purposes, I think im addicted already :D
 
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BM is a great chopper. For a sheath you'll probably want something with Drop Leg and Thigh straps. All versions are a bit much for small tasks. A 3.5 to 4.5 inch blade length is a great EDC companion for any BM.
 
You can also order a Tank Buster and strip the finish using a good paint stripper. The blade will have a dark gray, non reflective appearance. Here is a pic of a Hell Razor that I stripped. You can leave the grips on, they will not be effected by the chemicals.

HR before stripping
IMG_0982.jpg


HR after stripping
IMG_1003.jpg


IMG_1006.jpg
 
Hrmmm, thats an interesting idea gator. That could mean that a few blades i've been looking at on the exchange might be ok after all. Questions regarding stripping;

1) How hard was it? Just soak it in the paint stripper and rub with a cloth? What did you use?

2) Can you remove the grips?

3) If it is possible to remove the grips, how hard is it to put them back on?

Thanks in advance.

Edit; Can you remove all coating, even the crinkle type?
 
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Menomena said:
Hrmmm, thats an interesting idea gator. That could mean that a few blades i've been looking at on the exchange might be ok after all. Questions regarding stripping;

1) How hard was it? Just soak it in the paint stripper and rub with a cloth? What did you use?

2) Can you remove the grips?

3) If it is possible to remove the grips, how hard is it to put them back on?

Thanks in advance.

Edit; Can you remove all coating, even the crinkle type?
Click to expand...

Menomena,

I soaked the Hell Razor in a bath of Klean-Strip Stripper, but I am sure there are other paint strippers that can be used
kleanstripper.jpg


Here is the HR soaking in the stripper bath
IMG_0987.jpg


Pic of coating bubbling-up off of the INFI in the stripper bath
IMG_0989.jpg


Here is the coating that sloughed off of the steel that is remaining in the stripper bath
IMG_1000.jpg


The stripper is a powerful solvent that must be used outdoors or in a very well ventilated space (like a spray booth). The vapor that is emitted is very potent to the olfactory senses. I used latex gloves to handle the knife, but I received a minor chemical burn. There are other chemical-resistant gloves that will be better suited to handling the knife with the thinner on it. The knife soaked in the bath for maybe 5 minutes. As you can see the coating just sloughed off the blade. I used a wood paint stirrer to scrape the stubborn coating off.

I soaked the HR with the grips on. The grips darkened while wet, but they lightened-up after they dried. You can remove the grips by drilling out the fasteners and reattach them with screws. There are some screws available from knife making supply stores that may work nicely. Removing the grips is unnecessary though.
 
Menomena said:
Hrmmm, thats an interesting idea gator. That could mean that a few blades i've been looking at on the exchange might be ok after all. Questions regarding stripping;

1) How hard was it? Just soak it in the paint stripper and rub with a cloth? What did you use?

2) Can you remove the grips?

3) If it is possible to remove the grips, how hard is it to put them back on?

Thanks in advance.

Edit; Can you remove all coating, even the crinkle type?
Click to expand...

Mate welcome to the madness! :D

I have an ASH1 that I rook all the coating off. I used 2pak reducer. I just rubbed it on with a rag and the paint melted off instantly. The handles are pretty much impervious to all chemicals, no need to cover them or remove them. Check it out...

Before...
09-03-08070a.jpg


After...
IMGP2181a.jpg
 
Some of these stripped knives seem to have little pock marks in the steel. Is that normal, and can they be further polished or buffed?
 
adrock1978 said:
Some of these stripped knives seem to have little pock marks in the steel. Is that normal, and can they be further polished or buffed?
Click to expand...

We call those INFI dimples. It is normal, apparently a consequence of the heat treat process. On factory satin or DCBB blades, the Shop grinds those out. On coated blades, it is hidden under the paint; that's why coated knives are cheaper. Some blade have it worse than others, you never know. You can grind/sand them out, but it takes quite a bit of elbow grease or some time on a belt grinder.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552042

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=477620
 
resinguy said:
We call those INFI dimples. It is normal, apparently a consequence of the heat treat process. On factory satin or DCBB blades, the Shop grinds those out. On coated blades, it is hidden under the paint; that's why coated knives are cheaper. Some blade have it worse than others, you never know. You can grind/sand them out, but it takes quite a bit of elbow grease or some time on a belt grinder.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552042

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=477620
Click to expand...


At what point in all this do you void your warranty? Stripping? Grinding?
 
In fact, those dimples are typical hot rolling pits and irregularities from the raw steel strip. HT tends more to make layers. I got my CGFBM for 500$ shipped to France, just digging in the old threads on the exchange forum. I'm really impressed to see how INFI is tough and how it holds an edge. For the price, no other brand of maker can match the performances. About the finish, you know, there is no real interest, IMO, in stripping it or paying more for a LE or satin finish. Finishes are relatively durable and they protect INFI that is not meant to be stainless. Except if you really want it bare, i suggest you to go for a knife with finish, they are cheaper compared to LE, and more common to find than standard satin. Where i work, i have machines to do the satin finish, bead blasted or even looking-glass like (though i never tried on a steel as hard as INFI) but... it's in France. No one would like his Busse baby to travel oversea. Any model you take, any finish, any handle, you won't regret to buy a Busse ;).
 
Once you strip off the coating, is it necessary to continue treating it with sandpaper or other polishing compounds? I guess what I'm getting at is would there be a decarb layer like on the competition finished blades (not exactly sure what a decarb layer is)? Or would continued treatment be for pure aesthetics?
 
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