newbie Q about 1095

GibsonFan

GibsonFan

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Jul 7, 2006
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I've often heard many great things said about 1095 high-carbon steel for "using" knives. I've done a bit more research lately into understanding different steels. In doing so, I've read charts on 1095 that only list carbon (more or less 1%) and manganese (more or less .5%) as the other "ingredients" besides iron, yet the steel company charts say it can be hardened up to 66Rc. The charts also specify that 1095 is well-suited to differential hardening, which makes sense to me for a knife that needs to be tough at the tang and along the spine, yet hold an edge.

Am I reading the charts right? Is 1095 actually that simple?

I understand that the lack of chromium and other stuff makes it less rust-resistant; I don't care. My knives don't get exposed to salt-water, and I hone and clean them at the end of each day of use. "Patina" and little spots etc. don't bother me at all.

I know y'all prolly think I'm a moron, lol, I'm just trying to clarify my understanding of this apparently pretty tough steel before I buy another knife.

BTW I've had a knife for 20 years that I THINK is 1095, but I'm not sure. It's a Ka-Bar blade kit I bought from Atlanta Cutlery back in the late 80's and carved a 'pakkawood' (laminated birch) handle for. I'm "almost" sure the catalog said it was 1095. If my memory is correct, I'm sold on 1095 because this thing has been carried/stored in its leather sheath for nigh on 20 years and is stained, streaked and kind of ugly, but has always held a useful edge through rough work and never, ever had a red rust spot on it. I can also say that 90% of the blade still has the fine mirror polish like it did when it was brand new.

Hope I didn't make a fool of myself, waste y'all's time, or bore you to death!
 
IMHO 1095 is the king of carbon steels.At 1%C it can take an edge that is unmatchable in other steels.It is pure and simple a carbon steel,with no other alloy elements (Except the Mn,and trace amounts of Si,Ph,and S).It can be made into springs,knives and tools.The only drawback is that the HT has to be quick from the oven(or forge) to the quench tank.The nose of the transition curve is real fast.Once hard (yes it can get very hard) it can be tempered to the use desired.For knives ,most makers temper either in and oven to about Rc58-59,or do a differential temper.It is a good candidate for clay coating.Warpage can be a bit of a problem if you are not quick and straight with the quench.Any good heat treater can do your 1095 blades for you.It grinds easy,and forges well.
Stacy
 
1095 is a very good steel, but in my experience with it, it will not match 01 for edge holding. I used 1095 for about ten years, but after experimenting with 01, I have settled on it for most of my work. Acually, as far as edge holding, I would place my money on Nicholson file steel over 1095.
 
The number 10XX tells you it's a carbon steel and the 95 tells you it's .95% C. Yes heat treated properly it makes an excellent blade steel .In the old days it was a very common knife steel.
 
sunfishman said:
1095 - Super simple and a very good knife steel. :thumbup:
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OK I guess I was reading the charts right :) Thanks guys, you've clarified a lot for me. Sounds to me like 1095 or maybe O1 is what I want... maybe I should buy a chunk of each and compare.
 
01 will have a slight advantage over 1095 in edge holding but I still prefer the simplest of the carbon steel. I use W1, W2, 1086M, 1084 and 1065 for striaght carbon steel blades.
 
another dumb question... does the O in O1 stand for oil quenched? and the W in W2, water quenched? I think I read that somewhere......
 
sunfishman, I just looked at your website... that stag-handled bowie is just stunning! The temper line looks really cool... is that clay-tempered? (or whatever you call it). The guard and pommel look great, too.

What does a kinfe like that sell for?
 
sunfishman said:
01 will have a slight advantage over 1095 in edge holding but I still prefer the simplest of the carbon steel. I use W1, W2, 1086M, 1084 and 1065 for striaght carbon steel blades.
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1086M ? whats the M stand for?
 
Just my experience and testing, but I have found a significant difference in edge holding between 1095 and 01. From the testing I have done, 01 will hold a better edge than 1095, even at a lower rockwell than the 1095. There is a major difference in price, but I have found the difference to be well worth the extra cost. Just my humble opinion.
 
LRB said:
Just my experience and testing, but I have found a significant difference in edge holding between 1095 and 01...
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Due to the presence of chromium, tungsten and vanadium, your observations should be spot on. 1095 has plenty of extra iron carbide but it just can't keep up with Cr, W, and V carbides for wear resistance.

For what it is worth I also like 1095 alot, but I also like O1.
 
GibsonFan said:
sunfishman, I just looked at your website... that stag-handled bowie is just stunning! The temper line looks really cool... is that clay-tempered? (or whatever you call it). The guard and pommel look great, too.

What does a kinfe like that sell for?
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Yes that one was clay coated before quenching as are all my non damascus blades. This is the reason I like the simple steels, they work best for temper lines or better term, quench line, or better yet, hamon.

Best not to list prices on this forum but email me and I'll be glad to let you know.

Thanks
 
You can't win there , the carbides that give us wear resistance also give us more work in making the knife !!
 
1095 is a great steel as is O1. For a newbie to knifemaking I would recommend 1095. It is much more forgiving than O1. It also moves a little easier under the hammer and also grinds much easier. Another steel to consider is 5160. It will perform well and works like 1095 IMHO. You can get 1095 and 5160 for much less than O1 also.

So now for a question. were can you get some of that 1086M? Sounds interesting.

Chuck
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
"modified" That alloy has some vanadium added so it is considered "modified" from 1086 original recipe, consider it extra crispy;)
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Nice :thumbup: I like the extra crispy:)
 
A C Richards said:
So now for a question. were can you get some of that 1086M? Sounds interesting.

Chuck
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I bought the 1086M from Howard Clark a while back, 1-3/8 round stock, (power hammer recommended) :) This is some very good steel but I'm not sure if he is selling any more though.
 
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