newbie question

A

alex_111

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Aug 10, 2000
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hey, guys. i'm new to the shoptalk forum. i've made 2 knives so far, out of files on a small benchgrinder. i'll post pics as soon as i can find a good place to host them for me.
right. so, my question:
i'm about to attach handle slabs to a pretty little blank from www.kovalknives.com. i'm planning on fileworking the spine and tang first. well, i was thinking of using red linen micarta for the handle. should i use screw-type rivets, like corby or loveless type, or should i use lengths of stainless rod and epoxy? i've been using JB Weld epoxy on my others... is there something else you may recommend? also, any tips on finishing/polishing the micarta?
thanks a lot, everybody.
peace.
aleX.
 
Alex-

Your choice on the fasteners, but you might want to re-think the filework idea. Unless, of course, you are using diamond files. I am assuming the blade from Koval has already been heat treated, which means a file will just skate off of it.
 
I personally like the look of rods better than rivets/bolts. I would vote for rods/pins. Are you using red Micarta or maroon? In my opinion, maroon Micarta looks better with a finer finish. On most of my maroon Micarta knives I take the handle to 600 grit and then oil it t darken the material. 220 or 320 gives a better grip, though.
 
I have been using bolts now for about three years "just because". Pins do work fine. As far as the file work goes, a rotary power tool such as a Dremel will do fine except expect to take it a while (and don't slip!). There are a number of makers that do some of their file work this way. As Mr. Cowles stated, files will just skate off the hardened steel.

The bolts I use are these from Texas Knifemakers
300B-550B-GRSC.jpg
 
Pins, bolts or rivits its all personal preferance.
I use all of the above for differant effects and benifits.
BUT !!!
I think JB weld sucks.
I use a good 24 hour cure 2 part epoxie. I have never had a scale seperate.
 
I like 5 min epoxy(I know 24 hour is stronger and more elastic) but I get antsy and want to work it now. for rivits I think brass goes realy good with red but it's your call. I use either a 1/8 or 3/16 solid rod ( brass, stainless, what ever) countersink the end of the rivit hole cut the rod long and fill the counter sunk area by mushrooming the end of the rod with a ball pein hammer. I rarely sand anything with more than 220g paper but I do use steel wool and rub out as I aply the oil

I finish most of my knives with several coats of linsead oil (one coat a day 24hours between coats) and alow the last to dry a couple of days
then I buff them on a medium wheel with a compound similar in color to the handle(red micarta or rosewood I would use jeweler's ruge, ebony gets black, bone or antler gets white, you get the picture)

It doesn't take much to get a beautiful high gloss



There's a lot of ways to do it and if it works it's right. choose one and go for it.

(note. be very careful buffing knives on a wheel If you snag one the wheel will throw it It's not good for the knife or whatever or whoever it hits.)
 
<font color=midnightblue size=3><b>Alex, if you "peen" the pins right on the final surface of the handle material, i.e. no more heavy sanding, You dont even need glue. I'd recommend glue for your first few knives but go <a href=http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=158722> HERE</a> for an old thread of mine showing a bowie I made. The last picture (because of stag's usual irregularities) shows almost a cutaway view of a properly peend pin...

good luck, mitch
 
c l wilkins,
in the case of the bolts you showed, how exactly does one finish them? do the heads protrude, intended to be ground down later, or should the screw heads be flush with the surface of the handle?
thanks.
aleX.
 
Alex,
What I do is this. If someone has a better way, then chime in!
The short answer to your question is "YES", they are ground flush with the scales after the epoxy has set up. One word of caution however. I also grind the screw and nut(?)down so the shoulder will be recessed more. I found the first time I ever used them, I ground the the heads down and got far enough down to "get into" the hole that the screw was in. I had to start over! I also use a step drill bit. These can be had at TKS or most any of the knife supply houses.

As with anything else, don't get these too hot while grinding or you will burn your handle material.

C Wilkins
 
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