Newbie questions for hunting / skinning knife

[murrill]

I use my knife primarily for cleaning and skinning whitetail deer. I have previously used a traditional Buck folding Hunter, the blade is 420HC. I can get a moderately sharp edge on the knife using a Lansky set-up w/ a 25 degree edge, but the process of cleaning and skinning the deer seriously dulls the edge.

I have decided to get a new skinning knife, primarily because I find the blade length on the Hunter a little long for my preference. I like the Buck Mini-Alpha, which I believe I can get with a blade of either S30V or ATS-34. My first question, should I lose any sleep over which steel? The "Steel FAQ" that is a stickie on this forum notes that S30V can be difficult to sharpen. Is ATS-34 less forgiving? For what it's worth, I am also thinking about retiring all of the knife sharpening "systems" I have accumulated over the years (Lansky, Razors Edge, etc.) and investing in an Edge Pro. If I get the Edge Pro, would an S30V blade be any more difficult to sharpen that an ATS-34?

Second question: if I'm using the knife exclusively for cleaning / skinning (and not cutting any bone), what are your thoughts about the best edge angle for the knife?

Thanks in advance for your help. My sharpening skills are ... um ... not very good, but I would like to improve, and this forum has been very informative. I appreciate any recommendations you can share.

Murrill

 

[mete]

I don't quite understand the need for a 'skinning' knife for deer.A skinning knife has an upswept point rather than a sharp one . For deer most of the skinning is pulling off the hide and cutting some membrane with the tip of the knife .A typical 'hunting' knife with slight drop point works fine .In fact there are those who tie the hide to their car and pull it off that way !...I use an Eze-Lap fine diamond rod for most of my sharpening , just a few light strokes and it's done regardless of the steel.The angle is somewhere between 20 and 25*. Ats-34 makes a sweet knife but S30V is sweeter !

 

[VCM3]

Murrill, Get a David Winston model # 14 in D-2,micarta,you'll never need another deer knife,and won't have to sharpen it much.It has style,cause it's handmade,and the price is great.

 

[DGG]

Check out the Bark River Knife line. They are kind of an interesting friendly nutty bunch who make great hunting/camping knives. The knives are not for new users because they are hand ground convex edged and if not carefull you will definately lose some blood and perhaps fingers. I like the ones with blade guards just because if you have an accident out in the woods its is a long was to the ER.

http://www.barkriverknives.com/

Here's my favorite.


http://www.barkriverknives.com/gameskeeper.html

 

[tim8557]

Murrill, Get a David Winston model # 14 in D-2,micarta,you'll never need another deer knife,and won't have to sharpen it much.It has style,cause it's handmade,and the price is great.

Where do you find them. I didn't get much back from Google.

 

[VCM3]

Tim, Go into F/s Makers,scroll til you find David Winston #14 folder,his website is in his username,also,I think he had a fixed blade listed in F/S Fixed,or do a search in B-forums. Tell Dave I sent you ,he is a real nice guy.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I have previously used a traditional Buck folding Hunter, the blade is 420HC. I can get a moderately sharp edge on the knife using a Lansky set-up w/ a 25 degree edge, but the process of cleaning and skinning the deer seriously dulls the edge.

The angle is far too obtuse, trim it way down, go at least to a 10 degree primary and 15 degree secondary edge and it will cut far better for longer.

The "Steel FAQ" that is a stickie on this forum notes that S30V can be difficult to sharpen. Is ATS-34 less forgiving?

S30V is much more difficult to machine than ATS-34 but this should not be a factor, just microbevel.

I am also thinking about retiring all of the knife sharpening "systems" I have accumulated over the years (Lansky, Razors Edge, etc.) and investing in an Edge Pro. If I get the Edge Pro, would an S30V blade be any more difficult to sharpen that an ATS-34?

No, the Razor Edge method pretty much ignores machinability as you use a very coarse stone to set a high relief grind and then apply a slight microbevel with the hones. Setting the relief grind is the critical part, without this step sharpening is a long and tedious process. The Edge Pro doesn't help here just offers more finishing options and the ability to work with different angles (and more blade shapes).

-Cliff