Newbie questions. magnetized blade, TexasKnife order, and how to get good tight fit

S

Sharphur

Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
18
Hey I'm a newbie knife maker. Well, I haven't touched a forge or a grinder yet so I'm more of a knife finisher at the moment. I really enjoy the process of making knives though and have made a handful. Four Puukos, a camp sheath knife, a few wood carving knives, and my current project is a tanto.

First, do you guys have any tips for getting tight, clean fits in areas like between bolster and handle or between handle and tang? I've been using dremel tools and hand files so far but haven't been getting the tightest fits. The extra space ends up full of epoxy anyway but I'm looking for a cleaner appearance.

I'm just ordering blades and parts then putting it all together and have been using Texas Knife due to their prices and selection. After a couple orders I just have to ask, are my orders typical?

What I mean is, the first order had a blade with very rough edges around the tang. Not flat or smooth at all. I didn't catch it until I had already put the handles on. Epoxy dug into those areas so it's a bit ugly.

The second order was rayskin, and a tanto blade. The tanto blade is magnetized right out of the box. The rayskin has some serious adhesive tape about two inches by five inches right underneath the barb/spine area. Oh yeah, and the tanto has adhesive tape all over it too, not the painters type that leaves no adhesive residue but the other type of tape adhesive. I'll end up wasting time on fixing these problems that I could spend making the handle.

In fairness to Texas Knife, I ordered the Puuko's I've made from North Coast. They are nice but also had rough tang edges and their "blackened stain" was obnoxious and dusty so I removed it.
Is it normal to order "finished" blades that are in rough condition like that? Should I just get a forge, hammer, anvil and grinder and keep my mouth shut, lol?
 
I can't help with most of it, but the best tips i have read about for getting a good flat fit is to get a piece of glass and then using water to adhere some wet or dry sandpaper to it. rub the bolster and handle along that until they are as flat as could be. that should help.
 
I haven't bought any "store" blades in many years, but would expect they come unfinished in many aspects.Isn't that what it's all about, meaning to get them to look real good? No matter how you do it or how long it takes the places for close fits require time patience and trial. Frank
 
You have me there Frank. Truth is, I just enjoy making things and feel bored with life if I'm just sitting around. I did enjoy rubbing that dusty blackened finish off those Puuko's, they look much nicer without it. Great knives now that they are finished. I'll have to get pics and get people's opinions.

I really should at least get a grinder so I can do stock removal.

I like that advice, thegeek574. It seems more reliable at getting flat, squared surfaces than what I'm doing.
 
Grinders are not necessary for stock removal. go to home depot and get the biggest mill file and the biggest half round file they have, and then next time you order from somewhere that carries them pick up a Nicholson magicut. it is slower than a grinder, but it works, and it make the budget a bit easier to swallow. you need an angle grinder for profiling, but those are pretty easy to come across. If you fill out your profile, you will probably find a maker near you who will send you some steel and then HT it for you to get you started. if not, shoot me an e-mail.
 
Ive bought and completed several blades from both TKS and Jantz. I have never had a problem with the finish on the edges of the tang.
 
thegeek, I guess I just don't think about hand tools first the way I probably should. It seems so obvious now to just get the right files and shape steel by hand. It'll probably end up teaching me about working with the steel better anyway. Thanks for the advice.

GrizzlyBear, the tangs just didn't have flat, smooth, squared borders. Other than that, the blades were great. Also I was worried the tape on the rayskin would affect gluing but five minutes and it was off. I guess I was just surprised and wondered if it was me, which apparently it is, HA.

I will continue to use those shops, TKS has sent me free samples that I've used and liked. I will probably use TKS's heat treat service once I get into stock removal.

BTW, great forum community here, I like it.
 
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