Newbie questions

scdub

Dealer / Materials Provider
Basic Member
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
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Hi All,

So I've found myself with access to an old blacksmith shop. I've practiced with making fires and moving steel and am ready to start on my first blade forging experience.

I'm a State Park Ranger and father of a 4 year old. As such I am limited in both time and funds. I've done alot of reading on these forums and want to float my ideas past you guys before I place my first order for steel.

For my first knife (and probably many of my knives - as I plan to make knives for my co-workers) I'm aiming for a tool that will function primarily as a boot-carry entry knife for the rare occasion that I'm on foot/ATV patrol and don't have access to my crowbar. I'm primarily concerned with toughness and lateral strength, but would like a high degree of cutting performance as well.

Here's my general plan so far - please comment as you see fit.

#1: 5160 steel for toughness. I understand this is a deep hardening steel that can be drawn for a soft back. QUESTIONS: Is 5160H the same as 5160?Can you get a hamon with 5160 or do you need to use a more simple steel? Is the overall lateral strength improved with differential tempering?

#2: Annealing - QUESTION: Is it adequate to anneal by heating to critical then cooling in vermiculite with a couple of heated RR spikes?

#3: I plan to forge (low temp) to shape as much as possible and hot file as needed.

#4: Normalizing: Heat to critical and allow to cool in still air. QUESTION: Is magnetic North really important or just a good joke?

#5: HT: A) Anneal. B) Heat to critical. C) Quench in heated oil (Texaco type A @140 degrees?) X3. D) Temper in toaster oven at ~400 degrees X4. - Is this temp high enough? Can I temper at home or do I need to change steel/send out for HT?

I think those are my primary questions at the moment. Thanks in advance for your time!

SCDUB
 
That is pretty much it.
You heat to about 50-100 degrees above critical.
Magnetic north is very important if you are using a compass - not so important if you are making a knife.
Don't forge at too low a temperature.
5160 and 5160H are the same for your purposes.It is a very forgiving steel.
Temper at 450 for a tougher and only slightly less hard blade.Do the temper for two hours,twice.
You can do this at home easily, no need to send out.
Stacy
 
Thanks Mr. Apelt.

Anyone else have comments or suggestions?
 
Thanks Mr. Apelt.

Anyone else have comments or suggestions?

Well, sounds like you've done your research, and Stacy has filled in the rest of the gaps. Th eonly other thing to remember is to make sure you share pictures of your work!

Good luck!

-d
 
Hi scdub, the only thing I can add is in regards to your question about whether or not you can get a Hamon out of 5160. I have seen a few guys pull it off but there are better choices for steel if that is what you would like to see.Your statement "for the rare occasion that I'm on foot/ATV patrol and don't have access to my crowbar" tells me you may want to try an edge quench or use one of the many products out there to coat the spine of the blade (like satanite) to take advantage of the "differential hardening technique" (as if you were trying to create a hamon ;) ) ie. Hard Edge,Soft Spine. You mentioned "draw" , are you using a torch as your heat treat source ? If not the above mentioned techniques will not require you to do that,but from your post I have a feeling you have already done some homework and know this :) As Stacy (Bladsmth) stated , 450* or even 475* would be a good final temperature for tempering your Blade. 400* will (or should) put you in the 60-61 HRC. At least that is what I have found.400* may be a good "first temper" temperature to work up from for your final HRC. 5160 is Great Steel and you are well on your way :thumbup: , have fun and like deker said "remember to post pics". It has been said so many times before.... "This post is worthless without pics" ;)
 
Deker - bet your a@& I'll post pics!

Mr. Wesner - Thanks a lot. I'm not really too concerned with getting a visible hamon - performance is top priority. I was thinking of drawing down my temper using a heated piece of steel held against the spine of my blade and watching color change - then quenching. This should create a knife with an overall higher lateral strength, no?

One last big question: Is it very important to begin the tempering process immediately after the final annealing? I.e. am I going to have to take my toster oven to the shop or can I just toast my blades at home?

Thanks again to all.

I've been having trouble sleeping going over everything in my mind.

I'm going to order some 5160 tomorrow. Best source?

SCDUB
 
For a whole stick (about 21feet) Admiral steel. For a shorter piece, many of the suppliers carry it. You may be able to get it in your town from a spring shop. Look in the yellow pages under "springs" or "custom springs".
Stacy
 
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