- Joined
- May 29, 2004
- Messages
- 3,042
Hi All,
So I've found myself with access to an old blacksmith shop. I've practiced with making fires and moving steel and am ready to start on my first blade forging experience.
I'm a State Park Ranger and father of a 4 year old. As such I am limited in both time and funds. I've done alot of reading on these forums and want to float my ideas past you guys before I place my first order for steel.
For my first knife (and probably many of my knives - as I plan to make knives for my co-workers) I'm aiming for a tool that will function primarily as a boot-carry entry knife for the rare occasion that I'm on foot/ATV patrol and don't have access to my crowbar. I'm primarily concerned with toughness and lateral strength, but would like a high degree of cutting performance as well.
Here's my general plan so far - please comment as you see fit.
#1: 5160 steel for toughness. I understand this is a deep hardening steel that can be drawn for a soft back. QUESTIONS: Is 5160H the same as 5160?Can you get a hamon with 5160 or do you need to use a more simple steel? Is the overall lateral strength improved with differential tempering?
#2: Annealing - QUESTION: Is it adequate to anneal by heating to critical then cooling in vermiculite with a couple of heated RR spikes?
#3: I plan to forge (low temp) to shape as much as possible and hot file as needed.
#4: Normalizing: Heat to critical and allow to cool in still air. QUESTION: Is magnetic North really important or just a good joke?
#5: HT: A) Anneal. B) Heat to critical. C) Quench in heated oil (Texaco type A @140 degrees?) X3. D) Temper in toaster oven at ~400 degrees X4. - Is this temp high enough? Can I temper at home or do I need to change steel/send out for HT?
I think those are my primary questions at the moment. Thanks in advance for your time!
SCDUB
So I've found myself with access to an old blacksmith shop. I've practiced with making fires and moving steel and am ready to start on my first blade forging experience.
I'm a State Park Ranger and father of a 4 year old. As such I am limited in both time and funds. I've done alot of reading on these forums and want to float my ideas past you guys before I place my first order for steel.
For my first knife (and probably many of my knives - as I plan to make knives for my co-workers) I'm aiming for a tool that will function primarily as a boot-carry entry knife for the rare occasion that I'm on foot/ATV patrol and don't have access to my crowbar. I'm primarily concerned with toughness and lateral strength, but would like a high degree of cutting performance as well.
Here's my general plan so far - please comment as you see fit.
#1: 5160 steel for toughness. I understand this is a deep hardening steel that can be drawn for a soft back. QUESTIONS: Is 5160H the same as 5160?Can you get a hamon with 5160 or do you need to use a more simple steel? Is the overall lateral strength improved with differential tempering?
#2: Annealing - QUESTION: Is it adequate to anneal by heating to critical then cooling in vermiculite with a couple of heated RR spikes?
#3: I plan to forge (low temp) to shape as much as possible and hot file as needed.
#4: Normalizing: Heat to critical and allow to cool in still air. QUESTION: Is magnetic North really important or just a good joke?
#5: HT: A) Anneal. B) Heat to critical. C) Quench in heated oil (Texaco type A @140 degrees?) X3. D) Temper in toaster oven at ~400 degrees X4. - Is this temp high enough? Can I temper at home or do I need to change steel/send out for HT?
I think those are my primary questions at the moment. Thanks in advance for your time!
SCDUB