Newbie: Struggling with locking mechanism.

Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
13
Hi guys.
I have a little dog tag folding knife project going and I'm having a hard time figuring out which locking mechanism I should go for and exactly how they are made.

So a finger pointing me in the right direction regarding hardware needed and the best mechanism for this type of knife is much appreciated!

Btw I live in Scandinavia if that matters regarding webshops.


- Lasse
 
As a fellow neophyte, I commend you for tackling such an involved project. Pictures of what you are working on might help someone who comes along to give you a hand.
 
As a fellow neophyte, I commend you for tackling such an involved project. Pictures of what you are working on might help someone who comes along to give you a hand.

Well a steep learning curve is as good as any other right? :p

So since my computers are on the verge of crashing any moment i had to go old school and use cardboard :) But I kinda like that I can see and feel how the design is.

My design this far consists of three parts: Back plate, the blade and a top plate.




Which locking mechanism will be easiest for me as a newbie to use for this?
I've consisdered not using one at all. Just letting the blade stop against some steel where you can see the 45 degree angle.
Thoughts?



- Lasse
 
Like you said, a friction folder here would be fairly reliable and definitely very easy to implement. I think most mini/dog tag/keychain knives like this tend to be frame locks just to cut down on parts and thickness, but if you don't feel confident doing a frame lock for this, I think a friction folder dog tag knife would be really cool. Keep us updated :thumbup:
 
The first step in drawing the layout of a folder ( of any type) is to use a compass and draw a circle around the pivot on the liner (draw everything on paper or with a drawing program). The circle will represent the path of the blade end. All other parts of the knife can not enter this circle....or the blade will not rotate. No part of the end of the blade can be outside the circle while rotating. The circle determines where stop pins, locks, etc. will all sit.

As drawn, your blade will not rotate because that large round heel will be outside the circle, and would hit the back spring/spine.

Look at some drawings of how a friction folder or a slip joint folder are laid out to see what needs to change.
 
NeilJBorja
Like you said, a friction folder here would be fairly reliable and definitely very easy to implement. I think most mini/dog tag/keychain knives like this tend to be frame locks just to cut down on parts and thickness, but if you don't feel confident doing a frame lock for this, I think a friction folder dog tag knife would be really cool. Keep us updated

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
The first step in drawing the layout of a folder ( of any type) is to use a compass and draw a circle around the pivot on the liner (draw everything on paper or with a drawing program). The circle will represent the path of the blade end. All other parts of the knife can not enter this circle....or the blade will not rotate. No part of the end of the blade can be outside the circle while rotating. The circle determines where stop pins, locks, etc. will all sit.

As drawn, your blade will not rotate because that large round heel will be outside the circle, and would hit the back spring/spine.

Look at some drawings of how a friction folder or a slip joint folder are laid out to see what needs to change.

I will research some more and revise my design to see if I can find a good way to do this.

Thanks for your advice!
It saves me tons of headscratching and keeps motivation up :)
 
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