Newbie thrift store question

I

irona

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May 24, 2016
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Hi, total newbie to axes here. I've been in the mood recently to find and restore/rehandle an old hatchet. I figured that I'd just go to thrift shops first, seeing how I usually have good luck with selections and I can see the head in person before I buy it. I was wondering what brands I should look out for and which brands should I avoid?


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If the head is stamped it's easy enough (most of the time) to track down the origin and presumed quality that accompanies it. If it's European (Swede, German, Brit) or n. American made you are pretty safe. Goods with damaged or loose handles will usually be inexpensive enough that you can take a chance anyway.
Take a picture of the item before you buy, and post it on here. Tools don't usually sell like hotcakes at thrift stores and if you're worried maybe they'll take a deposit to hold it for you while you do your homework.
 
300Six said:
If the head is stamped it's easy enough (most of the time) to track down the origin and presumed quality that accompanies it. If it's European (Swede, German, Brit) or n. American made you are pretty safe. Goods with damaged or loose handles will usually be inexpensive enough that you can take a chance anyway.
Take a picture of the item before you buy, and post it on here. Tools don't usually sell like hotcakes at thrift stores and if you're worried maybe they'll take a deposit to hold it for you while you do your homework.
Click to expand...

Thanks!


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Collins
Homestead ( by Collins, but don't always say Collins on them )
Genuine norlund ( people think they're magic or something so pick any up you see for good prices, as people wikl pay a butt load for them )
Plumb
Kelly
True temper
Craftsman
Dunlap
Vaughan
Keen kutter
BBB ( binghams best brand )
Walters
Mann
Warren
Sager
 
Hickory n steel said:
Collins
Homestead ( by Collins, but don't always say Collins on them )
Genuine norlund ( people think they're magic or something so pick any up you see for good prices, as people wikl pay a butt load for them )
Plumb
Kelly
True temper
Craftsman
Dunlap
Vaughan
Keen kutter
BBB ( binghams best brand )
Walters
Mann
Warren
Sager
Click to expand...

Thanks!


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irona said:
Hi, total newbie to axes here. I've been in the mood recently to find and restore/rehandle an old hatchet. I figured that I'd just go to thrift shops first, seeing how I usually have good luck with selections and I can see the head in person before I buy it. I was wondering what brands I should look out for and which brands should I avoid?


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Click to expand...

Irona,
I too have been bitten by the bug, my problem is not many marked heads around where i live in the South. My best find in my opinion was the Norlund Tomahawk head found in a boat i purchased and a 5 lb Dayton Plumb head. Those are the only two ive been able to scrounge in my new adventures.
 
irona said:
Thanks!


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Click to expand...

BTW these are the good ones, also if it's unmarked I'd still take a chance on it if the cheeks are convexed ( if you set it on a flat surface your be able to wobble it )
 
Don't worry about brand. Find an old looking axe with convex cheeks and a toe that isn't worn. It will be a good axe. Some common high quality yet affordable axes include True Temper Flint Edge, Collins Legitimus and Plumb. If you see one of those that meets the first criteria then buy it.
 
Square_peg said:
Don't worry about brand. Find an old looking axe with convex cheeks and a toe that isn't worn. It will be a good axe. Some common high quality yet affordable axes include True Temper Flint Edge, Collins Legitimus and Plumb. If you see one of those that meets the first criteria then buy it.
Click to expand...

Isn't convex for splitting though? I'm going for more of a bushcraft hatchet


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irona said:
Isn't convex for splitting though? I'm going for more of a bushcraft hatchet


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Click to expand...

Having convex cheeks will help reduce sticking while splitting but are actually there to help pop chips when chopping , that's why they're seen on American felling axes.
You will see convex cheeks on hatchets, so you should look for them.

Don't be fooled into thinking that gransfors bruks axes are the standard all axes should live up to just because they're popular for woodcraft, a lot of vintage axes are better in quality and performance ( after checking one out in person I realized that they're not as thin as I thought they were, and vintage hatchets may often be thinner )
 
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I just added the part about gransfors bruks because they're currently the most popular for woodcraft, and people often use them as a standard for comparison.
Everyone says they're a great tool, but certainly aren't the benchmark.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Having convex cheeks will help reduce sticking while splitting but are actually there to help pop chips when chopping , that's why they're seen on American felling axes.
You will see convex cheeks on hatchets, so you should look for them.

Don't be fooled into thinking that gransfors bruks axes are the standard all axes should live up to just because they're popular for woodcraft, a lot of vintage axes are better in quality and performance ( after checking one out in person I realized that they're not as thin as I thought they were, and vintage hatchets may often be thinner )
Click to expand...

Oh ok, thanks! Are there also websites where I can buy hickory for handles? There's a lumberyard somewhere near where I live but I've yet to go there.


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irona said:
Oh ok, thanks! Are there also websites where I can buy hickory for handles? There's a lumberyard somewhere near where I live but I've yet to go there.


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Click to expand...

Check out House Handles on-line--KV
 
GB axes are optimized for softwood work. GB's site tells you how to modify the head for hardwood cutting - or buy one designed for that work in the first place.
 
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