Newbie to Maintenance (Care tips, equipment advice etc.)

[WhiskeyCreek]

I've just gotten into knives (particularly folders) and was kind of lost as to where to start in terms of maintenance. I'm vaguely aware of the steps of sharpening but more curious about oiling/lubrication, cleaning, disassembly etc. Any recommendations as to tools/equipment? I notice that when I get a new knife it usually isn't as "slick" etc. as I see in reviews and wondering if that's because they have maybe modified the knife or cleaned it/coated it already. Any advice appreciated!

 

[Kryme]

Unless it's a bearing pivot knife you'll rarely if ever need to disassemble. Every folder has some breaking in period before the internal surfaces polish each other, give it a few weeks it will feel much better. Some manufacturers tend to overtighten pivots, I don't remember the last knife I had that didn't need some pivot tweaking, and it's likely the reviewers did that. They're also reviewers, so assume the knife they got was picked out specifically for them.

As for tools, don't cheap out, get Wiha/Wera bits. You'll need T6 to T10 for 90% of knives out there. There's a small stubby Wiha driver with most if not all the bits you need inside the handle, it's black on red and usually sold under the Boker brand, but you can clearly see "Wiha" stamped on it on the other side and the bits themselves. It's the tool I got and it hasn't let me down once. But you're better off not disassembling, as it can wear down the screws over time, and not all manufacturers provide spares.

Compressed air and q-tips are your friend. As for lubrication there's many options, KPL(knife pivot lube) is very popular, I use Nano Oil(10 weight) which used to be the #1 recommendation before that, some use Ballistol or other gun lubricants... it's very subjective to your needs/preference. You want to use something that's intended for metal on metal lubrication, isn't too thick but also not too runny, and doesn't attract dust. Gun lubricants like Nano Oil are popular for those reasons. When it comes to applying it, less is more rule is valid as ever. You don't want to overlubricate as it will attract more pocket lint. Knives with bearing pivots I even leave dry, just dab some lubricant with a q-tip onto the pivot because that's the only part where friction occurs.

 

[Tensaw]

I disassemble, clean and lube every new knife. They are sometimes dry (no lube) and even dirty. It's also interesting to see how they are built.

 

[GmpaJim]

Don’t forget the outside.
I don’t know if I’m allowed to recommend this on the forum..let’s just say, it sounds a lot like, Renaissance micro-crystalline wax polish.

 

[Kryme]

I disassemble, clean and lube every new knife. They are sometimes dry (no lube) and even dirty. It's also interesting to see how they are built.

I too am curious and disassemble every knife I get my hands on, I just wait a few weeks. You can learn a lot about how well a knife is built from the attention to detail on the inside. I just rarely recommend it due to how easy things can go wrong (speaking from personal experience). Crushed washers, stripped screws, heck I even bought a soldering iron so I can deal with thread lockers easier. Actually stripped a Wiha T6 bit on my new Microtech Socom Bravo Mini. Yeah, you read that correctly, the actual bit stripped, I'm actually impressed by Rike, but man they need to lay off the thread locker, and by they I mean all manufacturers. I can understand a dab on the pivot, heck I add it myself, but it's criminal on body screws.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

I have said this a hundred times:
Those screws are there for assembly, not disassembly.
Just because something has screws in it doesn't mean you have to remove them.

 

[brownshoe]

I disassemble, clean and lube every new knife. They are sometimes dry (no lube) and even dirty. It's also interesting to see how they are built.

Some makers, such as an old school Terzuola ACTF, build their knives to not need external lubrication. Lubrication traps dirt and dust in the pivot area. Terzuola used to use nylatron washers.

Bill’s right, most knives are not meant to be disassembled by the user.

 

[Guy McVer]

I have said this a hundred times:
Those screws are there for assembly, not disassembly.
Just because something has screws in it doesn't mean you have to remove them.

But they do it all the time on youtube, so it must mean that I should do it too! And how else am I supposed to feel manly if I don't disassemble my knife and risk stripping the tiny screws or risk losing parts?!

 

[Tensaw]

I too am curious and disassemble every knife I get my hands on, I just wait a few weeks. You can learn a lot about how well a knife is built from the attention to detail on the inside. I just rarely recommend it due to how easy things can go wrong (speaking from personal experience). Crushed washers, stripped screws, heck I even bought a soldering iron so I can deal with thread lockers easier. Actually stripped a Wiha T6 bit on my new Microtech Socom Bravo Mini. Yeah, you read that correctly, the actual bit stripped, I'm actually impressed by Rike, but man they need to lay off the thread locker, and by they I mean all manufacturers. I can understand a dab on the pivot, heck I add it myself, but it's criminal on body screws.

With me it's a carry over from my handgun interest. I gained full appreciation for how precise a Chris Reeve is made when I disassembled my new Inkosi. It's amazing how fast the edges of a T8 torx bit will get rounded, even Wiha bits. I buy them (and T6) by the bag from Amazon.