Newby question: Advice on my first knife?

T

toobit

Joined
Apr 13, 2020
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Greetings, happy to be here.

I would like some advice on my first knife I made. I obviously have not polished or sharpened it but would like to learn what I could do to make this come to the next level.

My new grinder is here just waiting on the belts. I have seen many videos but not quite sure on a step-by-step process on how to grind this clean. Same with the handle. I got about this far with 500 grit paper but not sure how much further and how to take it.

Also, how do I polish handles to make them shine? I could youtube it but curious what your guys perspectives are. Thanks!

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The pictures are showing for me, except for the last one. I'm using Firefox.
I usually leave any advice to those much more expert than me, but for a first knife it's looking good. To really make the handles pop you could take them up to about 800 grit and then use some Tru-oil or similar to give them the 'glow' that you're seeking. On the blade you can use straight vertical strokes to achieve a nice finish. I'd take it up to about 600 grit, maybe 800 depending.
There are some excellent YouTube videos. Check out Nick Wheeler. He has several excellent tutorials on how to finish a blade.

For hosting pictures I use Imgur.com
 
seanj said:
The pictures are showing for me, except for the last one. I'm using Firefox.
I usually leave any advice to those much more expert than me, but for a first knife it's looking good. To really make the handles pop you could take them up to about 800 grit and then use some Tru-oil or similar to give them the 'glow' that you're seeking. On the blade you can use straight vertical strokes to achieve a nice finish. I'd take it up to about 600 grit, maybe 800 depending.
There are some excellent YouTube videos. Check out Nick Wheeler. He has several excellent tutorials on how to finish a blade.

For hosting pictures I use Imgur.com
Click to expand...


Thank you, I am on the right track then. Do you buff your handles at all? I just ordered the oil and will take it from there. I believe I need to sand higher grit on the handles also. I will check out Nick Wheeler!
 
toobit said:
Thank you, I am on the right track then. Do you buff your handles at all? I just ordered the oil and will take it from there. I believe I need to sand higher grit on the handles also. I will check out Nick Wheeler!
Click to expand...
Sometimes I will buff depending on the material. When I do, I use a muslin wheel and no buffing compound. Some people use buffing compound with their buffing wheels. But then you need a separate wheel for each buffing compound.
 
Pics came through when looking on my computer.

What type of wood is that? It looks like chechan Rosewood but I may be way wrong? Any oiley woods can get a nice gloss from an 800 grit finish and a buff. You can use a bench grinder to buff or hand buff. Even a buffing wheel on a drill can help. Just be careful. Guys have been killed by buffers. I like to take all my wood to a minimum of 2000 grit. You can also get some tung oil or boiled linseed oil and use it to wet sand the wood with the higher grits. Note that a lot of "tung oil" sold in stores is not 100% tug oil. These oils can be cut down for the first few coats to help them soak in. Some guys also use a CA finish. Sanded smooth and buffed, it makes a glossy finish. There's a ton of ways to finish wood from penetrating finishes to surface finishes and waxes. All depends on the wood and desired finish and use.

You need to be careful with the final steps as some wood is porous and can get discolored when sanding with fine grits or buffing. The brass mosaic pins will create a black residue that could stain the wood.

Check out this thread:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-do-you-finish-wood-handles.773240/
 
Looks good for a first blade.
Here's a couple of my random thoughts:
Perhaps spend a bit of time rounding the handle more. It looks like there's a bit too much corner.
Also, I used to use a buffing wheel attachment on a dremel for my handles when I first started. Worked almost as well as a buffing wheel and a lot safer.
 
scott kozub said:
Pics came through when looking on my computer.

What type of wood is that? It looks like chechan Rosewood but I may be way wrong? Any oiley woods can get a nice gloss from an 800 grit finish and a buff. You can use a bench grinder to buff or hand buff. Even a buffing wheel on a drill can help. Just be careful. Guys have been killed by buffers. I like to take all my wood to a minimum of 2000 grit. You can also get some tung oil or boiled linseed oil and use it to wet sand the wood with the higher grits. Note that a lot of "tung oil" sold in stores is not 100% tug oil. These oils can be cut down for the first few coats to help them soak in. Some guys also use a CA finish. Sanded smooth and buffed, it makes a glossy finish. There's a ton of ways to finish wood from penetrating finishes to surface finishes and waxes. All depends on the wood and desired finish and use.

You need to be careful with the final steps as some wood is porous and can get discolored when sanding with fine grits or buffing. The brass mosaic pins will create a black residue that could stain the wood.

Check out this thread:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-do-you-finish-wood-handles.773240/
Click to expand...


I bought the wood from Texas Knifemakers its called cocobolo? Not really sure, just learning the woods. Wait, how do you get killed by a buffer??! haha. I assume the wheel flys off and smacks you?

In regards to the grits, I need to purchase those 2000 grain grits, I think that will help this tremendously. I think I just went down to 500. My next step is to understand the basics of the belts. I have purchased a grinder from OBM, and got a 36 grit, X200 Norwex belts. Just waiting on those but need to really find videos on the different belts and use cases.

Thanks I will check out the thread.!
 
weo said:
Looks good for a first blade.
Here's a couple of my random thoughts:
Perhaps spend a bit of time rounding the handle more. It looks like there's a bit too much corner.
Also, I used to use a buffing wheel attachment on a dremel for my handles when I first started. Worked almost as well as a buffing wheel and a lot safer.
Click to expand...


Thats what I was thinking. More sanding in general. I may have to do it with a Dremel because this is a very small handle. Do you have specific wax you put on a buffing wheel for woods? I will check out some more forums.
 
Not bad!!! You are getting very creative for your first knife. I recommend getting some Rhynowet sand paper. Start with the lowest grit you previously used, when those scratches are gone, step up to the next grit.
 
TheEdge01 said:
Not bad!!! You are getting very creative for your first knife. I recommend getting some Rhynowet sand paper. Start with the lowest grit you previously used, when those scratches are gone, step up to the next grit.
Click to expand...


Rhynowet. I will check into that.!
 
OP, Please don't ha ha the buffer comment. There's reams of threads warning that it's the most dangerous tool in any shop. It can grab the blade out of your hands, bounce it off the wall and sling it right back at you. That's one way.
 
Ugh. Yes I assumed it was dangerous because the buffing wheel wants to catch it. It is rotating down though. I will read up on some more safety notes.
 
For the wood, I use sand paper in ever-finer grits. First use the oil (Danish oil for me) at 220 grit & work up a "slurry" on the wood & don't wipe it off. It needs to set for about a week (water heater closet, warm spot), then wet-sand it off with 320 & wipe it down to dry. Work up to progressively finer grits, making sure it dries completely between coats. I usually take it to 800, but that depends on what you want for a finish. An oil finish is about as good as it gets for nice wood!
 
noseoil said:
For the wood, I use sand paper in ever-finer grits. First use the oil (Danish oil for me) at 220 grit & work up a "slurry" on the wood & don't wipe it off. It needs to set for about a week (water heater closet, warm spot), then wet-sand it off with 320 & wipe it down to dry. Work up to progressively finer grits, making sure it dries completely between coats. I usually take it to 800, but that depends on what you want for a finish. An oil finish is about as good as it gets for nice wood!
Click to expand...
Very interesting. Sand oil, let dry, wet-sand off, then finer grits with more oil in between grits. Fun!
 
toobit said:
Very interesting. Sand oil, let dry, wet-sand off, then finer grits with more oil in between grits. Fun!
Click to expand...

most of us use stabilized woods, because they take way less time to finish. The resin can be sanded to 2000g or 2500g, then a coat for tru oil, or danish oil to seal it and bring out the contrast. Wax and buff is optional. I love the look and feel of a properly finished non stabilized handle, but it is minimum 10 days to do well, sometimes longer.
 
toobit said:
Ugh. Yes I assumed it was dangerous because the buffing wheel wants to catch it. It is rotating down though. I will read up on some more safety notes.
Click to expand...
When buffing there are parts of the buff that you keep away from (its like the kickback zone on a chainsaw bar) If your buffer is spinning so the top of the wheels are coming towards you and going down, you use the lower part of the wheel ( the part that is moving away from you) , if you put the knife to the top part of the wheel ( the part coming towards you ) it will grab the blade and bad things will happen.
 
Buffer comments covered that concern.

Cocobolo is one of my favorite woods. Take it up in sandpaper grit with oil and buff by hand or a dremel and she'll shine like crazy with a nice deep finish. Protect it with some carnauba wax and you'll be amazed with the luster.

You shouldn't have to worry too much about staining from the pins with cocobolo. You'll be amazed with this wood.
 
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