Newer vs. Older ZT 560's (NOW WITH PICS)

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May 29, 2012
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I'm sure this has been mentioned around here already but I thought I'd make a thread with my findings having owned a 560 from a while back when they were scarce and sold for more used than they cost new.

I got a 561 today, a brand new one, and I have found some interesting things. Some consistencies and some differences. The differences being that the blade is now high polished before being stonewashed. The older ones had a normal, much flatter gray steel that had a somewhat light stonewalls. The current one was definitely polished before the stone washing, and it looks extremely nice. Also, the Ti side is much shinier as well. I don't know if the old one was sandblasted and this one's bead blasted, but something's different. I think they actually polished the Ti quite a bit and bead blasted it lightly, or something. The old one seemed sandblasted, but either way, it had a dull gray.

One thing that's definitely the same is the up and down blade wiggle. It wasn't a problem, it's not "play" and it doesn't bother me, but it doesn't take much force to get a little wiggle out of the blade up and down. Both of my examples have this "feature" (not gonna call it an "issue"). Also, a cool thing that could be coincidence, or maybe just great tolerances, is the fact that both of mine had 45 percent lockup. The only other differences I notice are that some of the slight imperfections and minor fit and finish flaws do not exist on this knife. It's just about as perfect as it could be, given the materials and what it is.

I like the new look. They chose a more polished theme and I like that because it shows throughout the knife and it was done well. It's shinier, but on the other and the stonewash is kind of more apparent because either it's a bit heavier or the polished blade lets it show through. I like how it's polished but not too shiny and still very stonewashed looking at the same time. This newer example looks a bit classier and higher quality. The older duller blade/sandblasted one was nice, but looks a little more run-of-the-mill. Just not as cool, hard to describe. I guess if you're going to make the knife totally dull and stuff like the old one, I'd rather have a HEAVY stonewash to make it real "rough" or "worn" looking, if you know what I mean. Like on the Les George VECP v1 vs v2, he went from full on heavy sandblast to full on heavy stonewash that almost looks like a Tuffthumbz "Fallout Treatment". Anyway, I'm getting off topic, but I like when a maker takes a theme and goes all the way instead of trying for a mild/middleground effect.

The newer look of these knives is legit. It's class. And the fit and finish has gotten even better. Good stuff ZT, I really like this knife now, and now that I have the brown g10 I always wanted, I probably won't be getting rid of this knife.

What are your thoughts on the old vs new and what have you noticed, those of you who have owned or seen them both??

EDIT: Here are some pictures. Crappy iPhone pics with poor lighting, so I took multiple pics so you can see different angles with light reflecting. Hopefully you get the idea. I only have a few old pics of my 560, so the comparison might not be that great. I think most people will have the older flat/sandblasted version, since I have reason to believe this is a very new change (likely somewhere between the 2200 and 2400 serial number mark).
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Here's my old 560:
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Interesting, I'd like to see some comparison pics, for sure. I too have an older 0560, & I absolutely love it (mine has no "wiggle" at all, it's totally rock solid, both up & down & side to side) I do still want a 0561 one day, I like the tan scale, & these new details might push it up higher on my list!
 
A pic would be great! I've got 2 with a flat grey blade. The oldest serial I have is 2221. What's your serial?
 
Yeah, the brown G10 was what I always wanted from the beginning, so I'm glad I went ahead and got this one. I took some pictures for you guys but I am having trouble uploading them to Photobucket. I think Photobucket is having problems today, because someone else mentioned the same thing. I will post the pics as soon as I can.

Hey MOD, wow I'm surprised to hear that. This must have been a very recent change because mine is SN 2458. I guess that's still a difference of over 200 knives, but still, it seems like this must have been very recent. When I was at the USN G4 gathering a couple weeks ago, I picked up an identical 561 to mine and noticed the changes on that one immediately.

One thing I forgot to mention that I DON'T like a whole lot, although it's subtle, is the fact that you can see (if you look very, very closely) some machining lines on the blade. These are not grind lines, which is something I wouldn't mind seeing. I know this is a production knife, but I just hate those milling lines like you see on most Benchmade's. It just gives you such an immediate notion that the knife is production and not hand ground. I don't think I ever noticed it on my older 560 or 551. It is VERY hard to see, however, and it's a much tighter pattern of lines that makes it almost look like grind lines, as opposed to those painfully obvious and apparent lines on Benchmade blades. Just bugs me a little bit because I'd just rather not even know that my 561 was never ground by hand at all. I know they cut out the blades with machines, but I like to picture them finish-grinding them a little bit LOL. I guess there's the slight chance that I'm mistaken, but I'm almost positive I recognize these extremely ghosted lines as milling marks (or whatever they use to cut out blades that leaves those machine-looking lines down the side). Again, it's very subtle though. I'm grateful for the quality and caliber of knife Kershaw has given us with the ZT 560, but I always pictured them as being a little more "hand made".
 
That blade wiggle comes from the lock cut out flexing. I can't get mine to do it unless I grab the blade up next to the tip and push really hard. The blade fells dead solid other than if it's stressed like that. Then as noted it's still not play, just a bit of flex, that I'd have never even noticed except it being brought up on this forum.
 
That blade wiggle comes from the lock cut out flexing. I can't get mine to do it unless I grab the blade up next to the tip and push really hard. The blade fells dead solid other than if it's stressed like that. Then as noted it's still not play, just a bit of flex, that I'd have never even noticed except it being brought up on this forum.

Yeah, I think some are more solid than others. Osodavis doesn't get any wiggle at all and you only get a little bit. Both of mine have been about the same, they don't take a whole lot of pressure to get them to flex but it's pretty much just something you feel. I tiny bit of movement you can't see. I can put a decent amount of pressure and get zero flex and I consider that solid enough. Definitely not blade play. However, it's still pretty easy to get it to flex. I wouldn't put much more pressure when testing any knife, though. It's not a lot of pressure, but it's enough pressure that I would never have noticed it if it took much more pressure.

I've always heard it was lock flex, but I'm not sure that's what's happening with mine. It could very well be, but I think it could be a byproduct of the lock geometry. This knife has a lock somewhere between a CRK style and the old radiused Strider style. It's definitely radiused, but not as extremely as a Strider. However, it's also different from a Strider because it contacts the blade tang all the way up vertically, whereas a Strider has that "minimum contact" thing going on where just a small area makes contact to fight blade play (even though that didn't work out too well for Strider). It's similar to CRK in that way, but different because it's not a flat lock face like a CRK. I think this kind of lock geometry does make for a solid lock that will wear well, but can wiggle a tiny bit because it is still a full contact (vertically) lock with a radius (so that it doesn't contact but for a thin portion of the lock face horizontally). CRK is completely full contact (horizontally and vertically) and is completely solid because the faces of the tang and lock are flat, the geometry matches up perfectly, and the tolerances are very good. A properly working radiused Strider style lock is minimum contact and should be completely solid because the lock always touches a small portion of the tang at the lowest edge and the blade levers against it with plenty of leverage. It always has pressure on that small contact area and since it's not making full contact, the two lock faces can't slightly rock against each other. I guess the lock flexing slightly could be the reason those faces are able to rock against each other on the 560, though.

I don't really know for sure what's going on here, these are just my guesses and ideas. I think that the wiggle is the tang rocking against the lock face because of the style and geometry of this lock, but flex in the lock bar could still be the reason that rocking is allowed to take place. I don't know, honestly. I do know that this lock is pretty sound, sturdy, and should wear well (it does just fine in my Tily, with similar lock geometry, and my old 560). But I also wish it was perfectly solid like those certain knives you get that really feel like a fixed blade. I love being able to put as much torque as I'm comfortable with on the blade and not get any flex or wiggle at all. This doesn't really bother me though. You don't really get that same feeling from a CRK because even though the blade is perfectly solid, it's just not quite thick and rigid enough to feel like a fixed blade. The only knife I can think of that I've owned that felt like that is a Shirogorov Hati 95 and a Peter Rassenti Keystone flipper. Strider's are like that... until they get lock rock (I have found their new lock geometry to be very solid, though).
 
Posted the pics :) It's kind of hard to tell from the pics how glossy the stonewashed blade looks and how polished the Ti looks. The Ti almost looks like glossy gun metal silver paint. Never really seen Ti like this. Looking at the pictures, I kind of miss the old look. I'm a fan of flat, sandblasted Ti (even though it shows wear horribly). But I know that I like the new look a lot, maybe more, in person.
 
How is the disengagement in the newer versions -- easier to close?

Do you mean as far as lock stick or lock tension? Mine have both been carbidized and have ZERO friction or "stick" when disengaging and they have both been pretty similar and easy (but not too easy) to disengage as far as lock tension. Not too hard, but not super easy, since it's a heavy duty folder after all. The action on both has been good, but this one has overall the best action for sure. This one is effortless to flip open, no matter how you do it. Perfect detent and just flips with relative ease, and the old one was still easy! This newer one approaches the smoothness and ease of flipping that my Kershaw Tilt has, which is just amazing. This thing is close. I couldn't ask for more perfect action and it couldn't be easier to flip.
 
Do you mean as far as lock stick or lock tension? Mine have both been carbidized and have ZERO friction or "stick" when disengaging and they have both been pretty similar and easy (but not too easy) to disengage as far as lock tension. Not too hard, but not super easy, since it's a heavy duty folder after all. The action on both has been good, but this one has overall the best action for sure. This one is effortless to flip open, no matter how you do it. Perfect detent and just flips with relative ease, and the old one was still easy! This newer one approaches the smoothness and ease of flipping that my Kershaw Tilt has, which is just amazing. This thing is close. I couldn't ask for more perfect action and it couldn't be easier to flip.

Thanks for that description, that's very interesting.

I'm really asking about stock models -- whether the newer version is any easier to disengage compared to the earlier version.

Thanks.
 
Thanks for that description, that's very interesting.

I'm really asking about stock models -- whether the newer version is any easier to disengage compared to the earlier version.

Thanks.

Oh, mine are both stock. They come carbidized from the factory. My oldest one was 1328, so maybe they didn't do that on the earliest ones, but they definitely do now. All of the ones I've come across have been carbidized stock from the factory and have all been completely stick-less to disengage.
 
I was unaware of the changes till i actually read this thread. Good to know!
 
Oh, mine are both stock. They come carbidized from the factory. My oldest one was 1328, so maybe they didn't do that on the earliest ones, but they definitely do now. All of the ones I've come across have been carbidized stock from the factory and have all been completely stick-less to disengage.

Thanks for the information.

How can you tell that it is carbidized?
 
Thanks for the information.

How can you tell that it is carbidized?

It's hard to tell my looking, but maybe check out some pics of carbidization jobs and if you really want to take your knife apart, you might be able to tell. However, you can pretty much bet it's carbidized if there's no lock stick. If it is completely smooth disengaging, then it's very, very likely it's carbidized. I can't think of a frictionless lock that I've experienced that wasn't carbidized. It's a quick, easy, cheap thing to perform on a knife, so many manufacturers do it. It has multiple benefits for the manufacturing process, too.
 
Does anyone know if you have an older 560 that isn't carbidized can you send it in and have them do it or is that likely something you'd have to source elsewhere?
 
I've got a 4xxx serial number and mine doesn't appear to be carbidized. Opening with the flipper often engages the lock in a way that requires altering my hand position to disengage the lock bar.
 
I have SN#60x and it is perfect for my tastes. it is.much tighter than the newer ones I have handled and the stonewashing is nice and dark. it took me few different knives to find a couple I was happy with. I just sold my other hand picked one that was SN53x to another boardmember . it is also a super nice knife. Some of the first 300 had issues. then it appears after around 1400 they started to have these newer cosmetic changes.
 
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