Next FRN design evolution

sliceofaloha

sliceofaloha

Joined
Oct 4, 2018
Messages
753
just thinking to myself - i’d love to take apart my zdp endura for a thorough cleaning but i’m not going to try after watching some vids about it and seeing the difficulty. i haven’t asked before but i’m a little doubtful it would be worth Spyderco’s time to give my knife a spa treatment. perhaps there is some room for the idea of designing an easier to maintain frn?

i’ve gotten to work on the PM2, hamhandedly, to a decent degree. just skeptical of my skill on the frn.
 
i may lack your skills but would like to see your notes! btw, are the g10 versions built in such a way that they are easier to work on?
 
91bravo said:
The Endura and Delica are easy as pie to assemble and disassemble. The lockbar and lockbar pin/screw are the last thing you put together on the knife. If you're interested, I have a write up somewhere.
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This^

The first time I disassembled my Delica, I did not know the trick. Man it took me more than half an hour to put it together.
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
both are not mine, I just found them years ago.
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Reminds me of the saying : I'm not a cowboy, I just found the hat. :)

Next FRN design evolution
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Darn, I thought we were going to design the next texture pattern for the scales.
I kept seeing round craters either the same size or like the moon; all different sizes / craters within craters even.
 
sliceofaloha said:
i may lack your skills but would like to see your notes! btw, are the g10 versions built in such a way that they are easier to work on?
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The thing that makes the Endura a bit more difficult than other Spyderco back-locks is the nylon/plastic back-spacer with the plastic protrusions holding it into the scales. Once you have pressure on the spring, if the back-spacer is not properly sitting in the scales, it breaks easily.

Spyderco back-locks with screws and stainless steel back-spacers (I've done Police 4, Native 5 and Chinook 2, for instance) are easy. That includes g10, Pakkawood and Ti Enduras.

Note that you can buy aftermarket backspacers (like Putman's) in G10 or Micarta that have a steel pin instead of plastic protrusions. Those are easier, too.

Roland.
 
lieferung said:
Is that to say the G-10 liner less Natives are harder to disassemble? I have the BHQ M4 version.
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If they're like the FRN/LW models (and I believe they are) they should be very easy to take apart and put back together. I've had my Native LWs apart a couple times and (IIRC) I just put everything in one scale and then put the remaining scale on last. I know I have a pic somewhere. I'll see if I can dig it up. If so I'll edit this post to add.
 
This is the easiest way to re-assemble an Endura/Delica.

NwEHkCR.jpg


Put it all back together, minus the spring, lockbar and barrel/screws. This is where you adjust your blade pivot tension how you want it. Lok-tite the pivot screw, so it will keep the tension consistent.
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Insert the spring into the slot in the backspacer and insert the lockbar barrel into the hole, but not all the way through. Insert lockbar.
pZWZ6Gm.jpg


Press the lockbar in, while finagling the blade slightly open or closed, to line up the holes. Use something to push the barrel all the way through once you line up the holes.
NdYzQon.jpg


In! Secure this screw with lok-tite as well, but not too tight, as it will affect the action of the knife.
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Done!
sfuW80z.jpg
 
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That’s a chicken boner. It’s great for breaking up fowls. Makes tight corners. If you back your index finger into the crook, you get great blade control.
 
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