Next step towards scary sharp

justsomedude

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May 23, 2011
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Sorry for another thread asking about what stone to get and how to get the perfect edge; I promise I did plenty of research before posting this, but I value the input of the members of this forum and no advice is perfect unless it is specific.
I have gone through a few guided systems so far and currently have found a plateau with the Spyderco sharpmaker (medium, and fine) followed by green compound on leather strop, and finally bare strop (although I have trouble telling if the bare strop does anything). I am looking into getting a high-grit polishing stone of some sort to use before/instead of the strops; I am considering the Kitayama #8000, Spyderco ultrafine (triangle rods or benchstone), or the DMT EEF bench stone.
My main concern is keeping my CRK S30V(58-59) sharp, but I have a few knives in O1(58-59), 1095(59-61), and M390 (62-64?) as well.
My main question is, of the three items I listed which do you prefer for finishing all around. Also, which would make the best next step after the Spyderco Fine rods, I have heard the Kitayama works best after another polishing/finishing stone, and I have no idea how the DMT would fit in. I assume the Ultra-fine is a logical next step from the Fine, but I don't know how it compares to the Kitayama.
I would consider getting two stones if any of you have a solution that benefits from it.
Thanks a lot for your advice!
 
If you own a Sharpmaker system and you plan to continue using it, you owe it to yourself to get the diamond rods and the ultrafine rods. They are expensive (about $60 for both pairs) but worth every penny. On to your question: the Spyderco ultrafines rods for the Sharpmaker are fine for a final step. You can get a great edge with that alone. If you finish with the Sharpmaker, just make sure to spend enough time on each rod (brown, white) before moving on to the ultrafine rods. Then use a featherlight touch until your bevel is completely polished out. then move on to the strops.

The difference between shaving sharp and scary sharp is in the time you put into the final hones/strops and in using the lightest touch possible on the final stones and the strop, stopping frequently to check your edge. Just my two pesos.
 
why not save the money and time by invest in a powered system. they are much faster and work far better. why accept mediocrity?

if you do wanna stick with a stone system, why not get some glass impregenated stones like the Shapton Glass Sharpening Stones, they go up to 30000 grit. stop wasting your time and money on that sharpmaker (AKA:dullmaker)!
 
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I have used all kinds of sharpening stuff.

The Spyderco Sharpmaker Ultra fine rods are one of the best things I did to get to the next level. I follow up with stropping and HA diamond slurry and if the steel is good, I can get very keen edges. I do own the diamond rods but they don't see all that much use as I touch my edges up enough to prevent getting too dull. Sounds like you could just get the UF stones for now and then decide on the diamond rods later.
 
I have had some similar questions to the OP in the past and with help from some resident sharpening experts here, this is what I'm currently using and very happy with.

* Use DMT extra-coarse/coarse bench stones for heaving profiling and really dull blades that would take forever on the SM.
* Use the SM mostly for touching up edges that are in pretty good shape to begin with, and for finishing edges to a super fine/polished edge prior to stropping.
- As was suggested above, add the optional UF rods to your SM, they are well worth it for refining an edge before stropping.

I have the SM diamond rods, but personally I would not bother with them. Get a 2-side 8" or 10" DMT bench stone and learn to freehand sharpen for profiling your edges, and then use the SM for everything maintenance. Don't really need an EEF DMT stone, the 'extra-fine' level of refinement on an edge can be handled by the UF rods on the SM.
 
Thanks everyone! I think I will be adding the UF rods to my sharpmaker for now, I have been waiting to move to a new place to set up a paper wheels system and will switch to powered at that time. So far I have not had to re-profile an edge so I am not looking at courser stones just yet.
 
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