next step up from a hacksaw???

O

ouporblowup

Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
171
i usually go through like 2- 3 blades per knife with a hacksaw

not to mention it takes like 2 hours to cut it all

im about to try some 1/4 in. 1084 so i wasnt sure if that would cut it

ooo
 
A hacksaw should cut that, too- but I'd get a portaband and make a new table and a bench stand for it. It saves a LOT of work.
 
Look into getting an angle grinder. It will cut out your profile quickly.
 
Angle grinder is the cheaper option...better option would be either a 4x6 bandsaw, or one of the portable bandsaw's with a home-made stand.

Angle grinder is far less precise though. You'll spend more time at the belt grinder cleaning up the profile.
 
I found ( 2 ) 4 x 6 bandsaws on CL locally. If I recall one was 100.00 bucks the other about 70.00 I bought both, build new stands, belt guards, and an aluminum table for use in the vertical positon. Ended up selling one for 160.00 and put hydraulic downfeed on Jet that I kept.
 
If the bandsaw isn't in your budget look in to the angle grinder. It has made my life much easier. Learn to cut straight lines and think in triangles for removing stock around curvy parts. Give yourself a wide margin, don't try to cut all the way to your scribe lines. The grinder disks help clean up the profile quickly, too. Watch your sparks and wear eye protection. Also, pay attention to what you're doing, I have a 1"x2" scar on my leg where I bumped it. It will take flesh away in a fraction of a second.
 
What type of steel and hacksaw blades were you using?

I don't find 1084 too difficult to cut with a hacksaw, easier than 1095 in my opinion, although I wouldn't want to cut out ten blades a a sitting. I use good quality (Lenox) 24TPI bi-metal blades and a good heavy duty frame. I can get multiple blades cutout with each hacksaw blade. I clean them up using an angle grinder, belt sander and files after I cut them out with the hacksaw but I have just used files after cutting them out. I have learned to make the blade curve and follow my line fairly well. The biggest issue I have with a hacksaw is the depth of cut (and the amount of work required).

All that said, a Milwaukee or Delta portable bandsaw would be nice.

Greg
 
I am a bit confused at the 2-3 hacksaw blades per knife statement, is the steel not annealed before you try cutting it? I cut out quite a few knifes with my hacksaw, and it is still cutting well to this day with the original blade. The only reasons I can think of for going through so many blades are trying to cut hardened steel, poor technique and a lack of cutting fluid, or just really cheap blades.

A portable band saw is much easier to use, but trying to cut hardened steel, feeding it too fast, or not using proper cutting fluid with burn through blades on the portable band saw just as fast as it does on the hacksaw. So I think we need to find out why you are going through hacksaw blades first before moving to a band saw.
 
At 2-3 hacksaw blades per knife, buying a low end material cutting bandsaw will be cost effective in a relatively short time if you also factor in the value of your own time in the process.
 
I used the same blade to cut a bunch of steel, however I do recommend a porta band saw if you can find one for a reasonable price. I started with a jigsaw myself and bought metal blades by the half dozen. Slow and easy winds. However I bought a band saw last year and use it for most stuff. It's easy to rig a table up and although they are loud, you will thank yourself for getting one. A lot of times, you can find power fist or Harbor freight on sale for 60 or 70 $, get a spare blade or two as well, there is nothing worse than getting halfway through a cut and snapping a blade.
 
unky_gumbi said:
I am a bit confused at the 2-3 hacksaw blades per knife statement, is the steel not annealed before you try cutting it? I cut out quite a few knifes with my hacksaw, and it is still cutting well to this day with the original blade. The only reasons I can think of for going through so many blades are trying to cut hardened steel, poor technique and a lack of cutting fluid, or just really cheap blades.

A portable band saw is much easier to use, but trying to cut hardened steel, feeding it too fast, or not using proper cutting fluid with burn through blades on the portable band saw just as fast as it does on the hacksaw. So I think we need to find out why you are going through hacksaw blades first before moving to a band saw.
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man it must sound pretty dumb but i had no idea there was cutting fluid, and i have no equipment to anneal, atleast i dont think i do

this is why i ask the pros, thanks alot guys sounds like i have some stuff to figure out

ooo
 
Are you getting your 1084 from Aldo? I've not used it, but I've heard it arrives in a very soft, workable condition. So, there should be no need to anneal it. High carbon steel from most mills will arrive in an annealed state.
 
ouporblowup said:
man it must sound pretty dumb but i had no idea there was cutting fluid, and i have no equipment to anneal, atleast i dont think i do

this is why i ask the pros, thanks alot guys sounds like i have some stuff to figure out

ooo
Click to expand...

No need to feel dumb I am sure there are hundreds of things you know like second nature that would be completely alien ideas to me:o I grew up around people that worked with their hands and learned a lot about tools and their use. Up until last year I work as a bicycle mechanic with 13 other people, only myself and one other guy knew how to properly use a hacksaw and files. I even watch one guy go through 3 blades cutting an aluminum seat post, he was leaning into the saw and making high speed 4" strokes.

Do you know what steel you had on the other knives? Or was it a mystery steel, file saw blade or what ever? Those would have been hardened, if you are getting the 1084 from a steel/knife supplier it should come soft making it much easier to cut.

BTW I am no expert, but some of the others here are. I am still learning too:o
 
unky_gumbi said:
Do you know what steel you had on the other knives? Or was it a mystery steel, file saw blade or what ever? Those would have been hardened, if you are getting the 1084 from a steel/knife supplier it should come soft making it much easier to cut.
Click to expand...

i believe it, technique is everything!

I actually was sent a care package from one of this forums members for free ( coolest thing ever ) and he said it was 1084 but was hard and would need to be annealed
but i just never found out how to anneal so i would burn through so many hacksaw blades each knife

So if annealed properly, would i need any cutting fluid?

ooo
 
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