Nice thick vs thin comparison

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I like how he shows that edge durability doesn't have anything to do with stock thickness, and that thinness is the key to cutting. It is a good example of how sharpness and cutting ability are different things. If you aren't chopping, then mass does you little good, since the only part of a knife that cuts is the edge itself. I believe that what companies and individual makers are willing to produce is influencing what customers think they have to use to have sufficient durability. The right grind will give you a knife that doesn't break and also doesn't fail to make the cut. I don't share his level of admiration of the convex grind, but he makes an interesting point about hollow vs flat grind durability. His 0.040 vs 0.020 edge thckness comparison is probably just a guess on numbers, but the idea that you need to make the edge thicker to make up for the loss of durability/metal above it means you lose cutting ability in such a configuration.
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who is the guy ? i cant get to the title of the vid and infos on my ipad. his knife looks great.

very interesting and clever talk. just basic common sense about what a knife should be imho.
 
I liked the video, watched it a few days ago. I have been in love with thin blades lately. And the Para 2 which is around .022 behind the edge if I remember correctly is about as thick as I care to go. Take even a Para 2, and then a knife that is at .010 behind the edge. You will notice a pretty large difference in cutting if the geometry on the .010 stays thin and it has thin stock.
 
First off, I am a fan of gavkoo, don't own any of his knives but enjoy his videos, his honesty, and the progression of his craft.

... he shows that edge durability doesn't have anything to do with stock thickness...

I didn't get that out of the video... but perhaps that is because the "edge durability" I am most concerned about in my knife tasks is lateral stress bending the edge out of alignment or chipping it away. If the steel matrix is too hard, it will chip out against excessive lateral force. If the matrix is too soft, it will bend out of alignment unless there is sufficient material present to resist deformation, i.e. thicker edge. THAT is the sort of prying with which I concern myself first & foremost, and stock thickness (or at least edge-thickness) certainly plays a role in edge durability there. But in that context, "edge" is not restricted to the precise "apex" where the bevel planes meet and where the cutting occurs, rather it encompasses the planes of the bevels as well. And yes, increased edge-thickness hampers cutting ability. There is a trade-off, just as there is with edge hardness. We use steel instead of plastic for knives because it provides a higher level of structural stability in a much thinner profile. But one can only make the structure so thin before that durability is catastrophically compromised. Noss' destruction videos demonstrated that in the extreme.

... that thinness is the key to cutting. It is a good example of how sharpness and cutting ability are different things.

:thumbup: Jankerson's edge retention tests also demonstrate this much more precisely, as he endows each test knife with the same apex bevel as the previous test knife. As a result, we can see how knives with thinner primary bevels (i.e. thinner stock at the same distance behind the apex) compare to knives with thicker stock. There are also, of course, differences in matrix hardness and alloy content between knives, factors not to be ignored. :p But a thinner dull knife might still be a better cutter than a thicker sharp knife when the thickness & resistance to deformation of the cutting medium is high enough.

...If you aren't chopping, then mass does you little good, since the only part of a knife that cuts is the edge itself...

The fact that the cutting occurs at the edge is irrelevant if there isn't sufficient structural support (i.e. mass) to keep that edge in line. Exaggerated case-in-point: using razor-wire for wood carving.
Mass does you a great deal of good for structural support, and yes it also happens to be handy for increasing the momentum of a chop.

... I believe that what companies and individual makers are willing to produce is influencing what customers think they have to use to have sufficient durability. The right grind will give you a knife that doesn't break and also doesn't fail to make the cut...
Well, the cutting proficiency of various users and the stresses induced by the tasks to which they might subject a cutting implement can vary widely. I would guess that a lot of makers just settle on an edge geometry that makes a good compromise between cutting ability and durability for some model or other and then fail to adjust that geometry for different steels and hardness levels even if they could. Indeed, most makers and consumers seem more interested in a wide variety of blade and handle profiles and materials, with less focus on edge thickness. *shrug*

Regarding hollow vs flat vs convex, it is misleading to state that one is stronger than another without reference to thickness or reference to bevel profile. A hollow grind primary bevel 0.020" at the shoulder is stronger than a convex grind primary bevel 0.019" where all other attributes are the same. "Strength" depends on matrix hardness and stability, and stability is greatly determined by the amount of material present. What makes a hollow-grind weaker and a convex grind stronger is the amount of material each leaves on the blade to support the edge, and in proper context, "hollow" and "convex" specifically refer to a "flat" bevel plane of the same height and width. As such, it is geometrically impossible to have a convex grind that is thinner (weaker) than the associated flat grind, and it is again geometrically impossible to have a hollow grind that is thicker (stronger) than the associated flat grind.


I share his level of admiration of the convex grind, and I love seeing folks challenge common misconceptions by smacking their knives with metal hammers ;) :thumbup:
 
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Regarding hollow vs flat vs convex, it is misleading to state that one is stronger than another without reference to thickness or reference to bevel profile. A hollow grind primary bevel 0.020" at the shoulder is stronger than a convex grind primary bevel 0.019" where all other attributes are the same. "Strength" depends on matrix hardness and stability, and stability is greatly determined by the amount of material present. What makes a hollow-grind weaker and a convex grind stronger is the amount of material each leaves on the blade to support the edge, and in proper context, "hollow" and "convex" specifically refer to a "flat" bevel plane of the same height and width. As such, it is geometrically impossible to have a convex grind that is thinner (weaker) than the associated flat grind, and it is again geometrically impossible to have a hollow grind that is thicker (stronger) than the associated flat grind.

Don't forget about edge angle too! A convex edge of equal edge angle to a "V" or linear edge is, in fact, thinner. :)

ConvertedConvex.jpg
 
A convex edge of equal edge angle to a "V" or linear edge is, in fact, thinner. :)

There are a couple of important reasons why this is inaccurate.

1) the image you present is a false representation. The left image suggests that material can be added to the edge by abrasion, a physically impossible absurdity that needn't even be mentioned. The image should instead show the reality in which the apex is brought back. The right image is ALSO misleading because it implies THREE false things: a) that the bevels are being sharpened at the same angle of incidence (or held angle) - they are NOT; b) that the presented convex and flat grind apex angles are identical - they are NOT; and c) that the geometries of these bevels correspond as similar - they do NOT. The flat bevel which corresponds to the green convex bevel would be drawn from apex to bevel shoulder (the blue dot). Draw that bevel and tell me which is thinner. ;)

I went into this in another thread, but i will resubmit my explanations here.

convex.jpg


Cross-section (A) shows convex- (violet) and flat-ground (gray) bevels with corresponding (i.e. similar) geometries = equal height and shoulder width. One can imagine each profile being ground from identical billets. Note which profile leaves more metal behind the edge.

Cross-section (B) demonstrates how one would grind a comparable convex bevel (violet) out of an original flat-grind (pink). Again, the gray represents reducing the convex bevel back to flat while matching the geometry (height and thickness) of the original (pink) bevel. The gray and pink profiles are identical, the violet profile is comparable... and it is thicker than the gray profile from apex to shoulder, requires less removal of material from the original pink profile.

Cross-section (C) shows the original convex grind (white, violet-outline), reduction to flat-grind (pink), and further reduction to a thinner convex grind (violet). The violet edge is indeed thinner than the pink at the pink shoulder. However, 1) from apex until the orange line denoting tangential separation (~1/2 the height of the pink bevel), the violet convex grind is STILL thicker than the pink flat-grind (pushing the apex of the violet grind to match the pink would obviate this fact), and 2) the pink and violet bevels do not have similar geometries - the pink is as different from the violet as it is from the gray. As before, the true comparison is between the violet and the gray - bevels of equal height and shoulder thickness. If the pink and violet shoulders where at the same height, the entire violet blade would be thinner as well (assuming the same primary bevel angle and total blade height)!

The crux of the confusion about supposed "thinner" convex grinds is the angle being measured, or rather NOT measured.

convex%25202.jpg


In practice (sharpening, and other practices as well, like aerodynamics), the angle being measured is the "held angle" or "angle of incidence" between hone surface (flat gray in the above diagram) and spine-center (red line).
NOTE: If this is NOT the angle you are using to grind your bevel, then you are very likely not using ANY angle measurement at all but instead merely extrapolating after-the-fact. For example, the violet-line in the diagram is presumed tangential to the precise apex-angle of the green convex... but the precise apex-angle of the green convex cannot be measured without precision instruments or precise knowledge of the geometry of the curve(s) at the point of bevel intersection (the true apical angle of incidence of a curved shape). Such measurements are unnecessary for the purpose of this discussion as the measured apex and tangent bevel do not produce a triangle of similar geometry beyond an infinitesimally short shoulder height (i.e. at the point of bevel intersection).

Sharpening angle is measured by width of the blade and distance from spine-center to hone. Draw a chord perpendicular to the hone surface that meets the spine-center line to form a triangle. This triangle is geometrically "similar" to the smaller triangle formed by drawing a chord perpendicular to spine-center that intersects the bevel shoulder (light blue triangle). These triangles are similar because their dimensions are directly proportional, their angles equal - these triangles even share an apex!
Altering the shape of the triangle by increasing or decreasing the height of the bevel along the spine-center WITHOUT a proportional change in shoulder thickness (which necessarily changes the angle of incidence) produces NON-similar triangles. Insistence on correlating non-similar geometric shapes produces this idea of "thinner" convex grinds that contradict geometric and mathematical definitions.

To be clear, the definition of "convex" is as follows: curved or rounded outward; (math) a continuous function with the property that a line joining any two points on its graph lies on or above the graph; from Latin convexus = carried out/away from.
"Convex" is defined as away from flat, an alteration of shape that can ONLY be accomplished by an increase in angle, i.e. more obtuse, to a form which lies outside or above the corresponding flat plane. To make a convex bevel thinner than a flat bevel, one MUST change the angle of incidence, but the result is still thicker than the flat bevel ground at that new angle and it is the flat bevel at that angle which informs the use of the term "convex" to describe the rounded out bevel. Again, "out". "Out" from what? "Convex" is defined as out from the correlated flat. "Out" cannot be "in" at the same time in the same context. If your convex is thinner than your flat grind, then they were produced at different angles of incidence and do not correlate. You might as well correlate a thinner flat grind with a thicker one and then state: "Look, this one is thinner!" Of course it is thinner, you sharpened it at a lower angle. :p

However, you can alter the shape of the bevel without changing the angle of incidence, shoulder width, or bevel height by using a curved or flexible hone instead of a solid hone. How much the shape is altered is controlled by the amount of deformation and curvature (again, away from flat) of the hone. The result is a thicker bevel, one with more metal that it would have if ground flat at the same angle of incidence. Returning to the first diagram (C), the convex apex (violet) will always be more obtuse than the correlated flat apex (gray), which is the entire point (pun intended) - a more robust edge for a given bevel height & thickness. One CANNOT thin from a flat bevel to a convex bevel without widening the bevel, i.e. establishing an entirely different bevel. Conversely, one CAN thin from a convex edge to a flat-edge while maintaining the same bevel dimensions, reducing the apex angle.


In practice, if you want a thinner edge, widen the bevel - lowering the spine-to-hone distance accomplishes this (creating a lower apex-angle). If you want a more robust edge, EITHER reduce the bevel height (raising the spine-to-hone distance to a more obtuse sharpening angle) OR use a flexible hone to sharpen convex and maintain the same bevel height (same spine-to-hone distance).
 
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You got it, Chiral. Thanks for taking the time for such a detailed post.

People talk about convex edges so loosely that comparison to V edges is impossible. But when you precisely define the edges to be compared to the same three points -- apex and bevel shoulders -- the V edge will always be more acute and the convex edge will always have more metal behind it. But you can made the convex angle more acute and reduce the metal behind the edge the way 42blades does by moving the shoulder bevels away from the apex, lengthening the height of the edge. That's a legitimate approach, but not a fair comparison to a V edge.

I also think that people grind convex edges so differently that you can't really make any generalizations until you see the exact geometry. With V edges, the edges are more uniform.

In reality, I think it makes more sense to match steels and geometry to the work you expect the blade to do. With steels like 3V, you can take advantage of the toughness and use thinner blades and thinner, more acute edge angles.
 
I'll have to log in more often, I had no idea this topic made people so angry. But I also don't have a dog in this fight. Seems like it's more semantics than anything else.

Hardheart, thanks for this video, it was interesting. Sorry others took this as an opportunity to jump all over you... I think my ignore list might be starting to grow.
 
I don't see a fight, just a discussion. The problem is that knife performance depends on so many variables that people can make a case for anything if all those variables are not controlled. But, hey, most of us are not scientists, and we don't expect every review to be published and peer reviewed.

The video showed the advantages of a thin edge in cutting Kydex. Impressive demonstration. But there are other situations where lateral forces or hardness of the material being cut will damage a thin edge, depending on the knife steel, temper, etc. I tend to be biased toward thin edges and blades. I had a heavy bowie made out of W2 with a thick, blunt convex edge that could not chop clear-grained fir without edge damage. The same blade design with a thinner V edge in 3V could do the same chopping on the same piece of wood without damage.

Someone mentioned Ankerson's edge-retention tests. Jim does a great job and controls for a lot of variables and his work is of huge value to those of us here. But while he controls for edge angle, I don't think he controls for blade geometry. Blade geometry is huge. My Sebenza has an edge width at the shoulders of 0.020 or less, followed by a hollow grind blade. Hard to beat that design for shallow cutting. But his steel is 57 HRc or so, so I doubt that it would hold up well to chopping wire.

I'd love to see Jim's results if all the steels were from Spyderco Mules so that the geometry is controlled, but that's a difficult test and would leave out all the other makers, each with different heat treatments and blade geometries.
 
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