Nice to be back, and other things

Keith Montgomery

Keith Montgomery

Joined
May 9, 2000
Messages
29,205
It's nice to have BladeForums back up again. I have missed my time here. This is the longest that this forum has been down. Thanks Spark for all the work you have put in.

Got my knife that I have been waiting for. I will scan some pictures that the maker took while making the knife and try to take some decent pictures of the finished product. One thing though; can anyone help me with a little problem? The knife has a damascus blade, but you would be hard pressed to see that. The blade is so black that you can't see the pattern. How do I get rid of the coating so that I can see the steel and the pattern without damaging the blade? Would Flitz do the job?
 
Keith, what do you mean by removing the coating? Is it coating or just a dark etch? If it's a dark etch (and deep enough) you could polish the blade a bit using something very fine (I don't know Flitz). It will make the high part of the pattern shine a bit. After I etch a damascus blade, I wash it a lot then I polish it with 4000 to 8000 grit Micromesh (silicon-sandpaper).
Be sure you know what you want before touching the blade, it would be a pitty to relaize halfway through the process you liked it better before :D
 
Keith-- I don't have any damascus, but I would try the Flitz before resorting to emery paper as it is supposedly not abrasive. I've used flitz to lighten the patina on some of my khukuris, so I imagine it would work on a damascus etch as well. You might also want to try some #0000 steel wool with some oil on it. Also, you could ask and see what the maker recommends.
--Josh
 
Keith are you sure it is not blued damascus. Please do not use flitz or any abrasive on it.
 
Keith

In one method, (my choice) the blade is finished, etching and all first. Then it is blued with a caustic type blueing, much like a fine gun is blued.
If the job is done correctly, (with a low enough temp medium so the heat treat is not changed) the knife is as resistant to the elements as a high quality hand gun.

There are some makers that employ salt as a tempering medium and in the process get the added advantage of the blueing. 52100 is a steel that works well with the salt bath for both hardening and draw back.

The term "salt" is sometimes used as a catch all for any of the caustic blueing mediums. Some are chlorides (salts) and some are not.

The Chlorides, Sodium, Magnesium, etc, are used in different combinations in industry for hardening purposes.
They tend to only blue at the 475 degree or higher range and do react violently with water, so are hard to use. Several smiths have had some nasty experiences, even with good safety equipment.

The Sodium Hydrixide that I use works in a close temp range of 270 to 290 degrees. Outside of baby sitting the process (takes longer than chlorides) its works well and I don't have to worry about screwing up the heat treat.


Hope this has been some help





:)
 
Thanks Pete. Will it hurt the blade to remove the blueing? As much as I appreciate the fact that it will protect the blade, I prefer the look of steel.
 
Actually, just before I read the reply by Gus, I removed enough of the blueing to be able to see the pattern. The blade looks great and I can not see where any damage was done. If so, I will have learned an expensive lesson.
 
Keith,this may make some of the guys cringe but...I have a Fitch hunter in Damascus that I used to cut up a pork roast:rolleyes: and it discolored the blade.I used some Metal Glo polish and it restored the finish great.It was what looked like a high shimmer finish to start and I really could not tell a difference in the etch when I was done and since you have already started I think my a$$ is coverd.
Good luck and get some pics posted.
It must be an Alberta thing.:)
 
:eek: You actually USED a damascus Fitch hunter? :eek:

John would smile to hear this.

I wish I had the guts to use any of my fancy damascus customs. :)
 
Keith

The hardest part of blueing removal, short of takeing it down to bare metal and refinishing it, is keeping the color uniform.
If it is lightened up enough for you to see what you want and the coloration that is still there is uniform. then your in luck.
Some degree of the corrosion resistance is removed with the color, how much is hard to tell. To be on the safe side, watch closely for signs of discoloration. Also keep it well oiled, just as you would a high carbon steel blade.

:)
 
Danbo,
I have a Damascus Fitch hunter with Mammoth ivory handles I've used a number of times - nothing like a good knife to get a job done! :p Actually John would be pleased I have used it - it was the knife he used in the cutting contest at the 2002 Arkansas Hammer-in. He even touched up the edge for me this year at Blade. Get those knives of yours out of the safe and use them like they are supposed to be!!!!

Bill
 
Psssst! There was a nice damascus Fitch hunter on Ebay yesterday, and the price was reasonable. Shhhhhh. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top