Nicholson File ID, W1/ 1095

Greenberg Woods

Greenberg Woods

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Dec 27, 2013
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Hey guys, I have a TON of Nicholson files i got from an estate sale, and i have been hearing a lot of different things about what kind of steel they are. Some people say its W1, some say its 1095. I have worked W1 a fair number of times, but i have not worked 1095 much. There also seems to be controversy there. Some people say to hold it at 1800 for about a minute then quench in warm oil, then a temper at 400 for 2 hours twice, while others say it's a water or brine quench steel! So i guess any help on ID'ing what the files are, as well as information about 1095 would be helpful. Thanks guys!
 
I was using canola oil because I can't afford the fast quench oil right now. I switched to a brine quench because I was not getting a good result from the canola. There is a greater chance of cracking a blade with the quench. 1095 needs to be quenched rapidly.
 
I think 1800 degrees is a little high.Keep it moving ,not in a stirring manor . More like cutting or plunging.
 
There is a lot of information in the stickes, and even a guide to making a knife from a file. 1800 is too high. 1450 to 1475 is a more appropriate range for 1095/W1/W2 if that's what the steel is. There is no way to know for sure.
 
I spoke with a Nicholson employee about 7-8 yrs ago and he wouldn't tell me what the steel was explicitly, but he did tell me if I wanted to re-heat treat my files I should use the same treatments as W2.

Your call, but that was what Nicholson themselves recommended.
 
The steel is Mystery Steel. To be more specific, Nicholson files are made of Distressed Mystery Steel, so you have that going for you.
 
Ive seen the specs..between 1.20% carbon and 1.27% carbon with about .030% mang,,Pretty simple carbon steel. Ive seen tests on several different ones and they all spec'd the same or very,very close to it..
aust @ 1460°-1475° and soak for about 5 minutes..gets harder than a woodpeckers lips, you may have to go as high as a 500° temper to get it down where you want depending on your as quenched hardness..I typically get better than 66rc out of the quench with parks 50..
 
Last edited:
hellspawn415 said:
So the over all message seems to be 1450 to a brine quench and 450-500 degree temper for an hour 3 times?
Click to expand...

Be careful with the brine, leave a thick clean edge or your just asking for a visit from the TINK fairy..Another option if you don't have something like K quench or Parks 50 is 125° canola oil or a bit better but still affordable is McMaster carr 11 second oil..In thin knife like sections the McMaster carr will still hit 65rc + with that steel..
 
Well if I were going to use say 125° canola and quench from appx 1475° Id use about a 450° temper(2x 2 hours each)..If everything goes right you should still be around 59rc..File steel gets screaming hard..After grinding or forging be sure to do a couple normalization cycles to reduce stress in the steel before the final heat treat..Leave your edge fairly thick, at least .030..
 
H-Spawn... if you have a good scrap-yard near you... its gonna cost you a dozen donuts and a few coffees... but odds are they will have an XRF gun on site to separate steels... go by with a few files and take the donuts- build the rapport and ask them to shoot them for a analysis. Have the factory specs for 1080, 1095 and W1 on a card- and just write out what the gun says and compare... Just my .02- I have used this process to determine if a few brasses have lead in them for re-melting... Good luck!
 
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