Nickel Scratches

C

Cowhoy

Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
51
My 501 just took a trip many of my cell phones have taken in the past, I had it sitting on my lap in the car and forgot about it when I opened the door and got out :o The knife had a nice 3 foot drop in my stone driveway, surprisingly the nickel bolsters received acouple deep scratches. Any tips on getting them out, or making them look better? Looks like this will be a user now, I might just have to get another one to use as a safe queen :D
 
Cowhoy said:
...surprisingly the nickel bolsters received acouple deep scratches. Any tips on getting them out...
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Nobody else wants to help??? :(

OK, I'll take a crack at it...

A scratch means metal was removed...so you won't be "getting them out"...you can only remove metal around them until the surface is level with the bottom of the scratch...

"Nickel Silver" isn't... ;) Here's an explanation -

http://www.onlinemetals.com/brassguide.cfm

So, since it's just a brass alloy, you can use your woven buffing wheel with your favorite rouge (I use white) after sanding it down with 220/320/400/600/whatever wet-or-dry... :)

See? Not as hard as you would have thought... ;)

Disclaimer: I am not a knifesmith and may not know what I am talking about. Grain of salt territory.
 
Cowhoy said:
My 501 just took a trip many of my cell phones have taken in the past, I had it sitting on my lap in the car and forgot about it when I opened the door and got out :o The knife had a nice 3 foot drop in my stone driveway, surprisingly the nickel bolsters received acouple deep scratches. Any tips on getting them out, or making them look better? Looks like this will be a user now, I might just have to get another one to use as a safe queen :D
Click to expand...

I have no idea :D, try Trax's method or send it to Buck,- (thats what I do ) :D
Good luck
 
trax has got it, start with 150-220-320-600 then buff with a coarse compound, then a light compound and she'll shine like a new diamond, have fixed up alot of beaters this way. Or you can just send it to me and I'll do it....I'll be sure to send it back....................promise :p
 
wh4f said:
...try Trax's method or send it to Buck...
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Which reminds me - I made an inquiry of Joe about sending in a knife for sharpening/refinishing, and was told the price of $5.00 is for "walk ins" only; mail ins are $6.95...

Or were about a month ago... :)
 
Cowhoy said:
My 501 just took a trip many of my cell phones have taken in the past, I had it sitting on my lap in the car and forgot about it when I opened the door and got out :o The knife had a nice 3 foot drop in my stone driveway, surprisingly the nickel bolsters received acouple deep scratches. Any tips on getting them out, or making them look better? Looks like this will be a user now, I might just have to get another one to use as a safe queen :D
Click to expand...

well i would say you answered your own question just get a new one and use this one :thumbup:
you could do as trax suggests but why bother if its like your cell phone you are just going to scuff it again :D as long as the scratches arent sharp enough to cut you or clothes just carry on thats how i do it :D
 
Thanks for the tip chickentrax sounds like a simple solution, but for now im going to take buckman's advice and just learn to love the battle wounds......it adds character :D
 
Cowhoy,
A dremmel tool loaded with a buffer wheel and a little compound will improve things. The more elaborate series of abrasives is only needed for complete healing.
 
A few years ago I sent in a little 709 penknife for sharpening. It had a bunch or nasty nicks on the bolsters. I didn't mention them at all in my letter to Buck, just asked for the knife to be sharpened. Lo and behold, it came back with the bolsters polished up so much I had to inspect it for a good minute or two to verify it was the knife I'd sent it, and not a replacement!
 
Hey guys--now that I've found out on another thread that nickel silver is not plated, but solid, another question comes to mind. How hard is it compared to the brass used on 110s? How readily can it be drilled and tapped? I've had STR put pocket clips on a couple 110s for me, and I wonder if I had a nice 110 from the custom shop with nickel bolsters, if it could have that same modification.
 
:cool: ...I hate to ask this question so late in this thread...but how old is that 501???...You have to remember that the early 500 series knives had bolsters of Stainless Steel...NOT Nickel Steel...I know that at least until 1988 stainless steel was being used for the 531 and subsequent 532 knives produced...I'd think that any 501 with the "scribe" style stamp would be stainless as well as "block" styles up to 1993 or 1994 which would have / or \ markings...If I'm not mistaken Nickel Steel began to appear in 1994 for 1995 production and shipment...:cool:
 
DarrylS said:
:cool: ...I hate to ask this question so late in this thread...but how old is that 501???...You have to remember that the early 500 series knives had bolsters of Stainless Steel...NOT Nickel Steel...I know that at least until 1988 stainless steel was being used for the 531 and subsequent 532 knives produced...I'd think that any 501 with the "scribe" style stamp would be stainless as well as "block" styles up to 1993 or 1994 which would have / or \ markings...If I'm not mistaken Nickel Steel began to appear in 1994 for 1995 production and shipment...:cool:
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The blade stamp is 2006, it's funny you brought this up due to the fact that my Dad's 501 doesn't have any serious marks and it's dated 1988.
 
Cowhoy said:
The blade stamp is 2006, it's funny you brought this up due to the fact that my Dad's 501 doesn't have any serious marks and it's dated 1988.
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...LOL...I would then think that his 501 is a tad harder than your 2006 production...Your's should buff out fairly easily...:D
 
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