Nightforce Scope Question

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DancesWithKnives

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Apr 21, 2001
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I'm saving some bucks to buy a new scope for my target rifle. It will be used for informal target shooting (no competitions) at a variety of ranges. I'm considering the Nightforce NXS in 12-42 x 56mm. Has anyone had any experience with this scope? Is there any reason I should look at another Nightforce model or high-end target scopes from a different manufacturer?

Thanks very much for your advice.
 
The only other scopes that come close in terms of quality are made by US Optics. You should checkout Sniper Country reviews, Optics specifically.

I have a Night Force myself and love it. Don't waste your time looking through this scope, or a US Optics model, in a building. You must take them outside and look at distant objects to fully appreciate their clarity and absolute performance. Have you ever seen the structure of a leaf at 300 yards with a rifle scope? I have :D
 
US Optics are nice, for what I do...they are a little expensive (the ST-10 isn't too bad though). US Optics lenses are definitely a step above the rest.

Nightforce makes a great scope, I went with the Leupold Mark 4 though (I don't need an illuminated reticle, the minimum 50mm objective is too big for where I'm shooting). I like the Mark 4 being a fixed power scope.

You can't go wrong with the Nightforce (or US Optics, Leupold Mark 4, Swarovski)
 
I think large objectives 56mm are too much. They are bulky and throw the handling characteristics of most rifles. Better a 50,48,45 or 42; even 40 on a range. I like European scopes for robustness and eye clearance: Schmidt&Bender, Swarovski, etc. Leupold have lovely thin reticules for varmint type shooting. KISS still rules in my book. Large magnification over 10x is only helpful with bench rest styled shoots, and elswhere its a hinderance to good shooting. My rule of thumb is fixed 4x out to 200m, 6x out to 300m,8 or 10x further. Sorry, don't know Knightforce well enough to comment.
 
GREENJACKET,

I generally agree with you. My largest present scope objective is 42mm. I usually hunt with a relatively low magnification scope. Friends sometimes gave me grief about a 3.5 power I had on my 338 elk rifle. However, I could easily hit a 375 yd. 12" x 12" steel plate at our range every time. I'm simply not going to shoot at an elk that's any farther out.

The rifle I'm considering for the Nightforce will likely never see a hunting trip. I will be shooting targets from 100 to 1,000 yards. It has a detachable bipod but is usually fired from a bench rest. One knowledgeable shooter suggested Leupold's competition target scope in 45 x 45. He thought it would be a lot lighter, simpler, and more compact than the massive Nightforce variable. Needless to say, a fixed 45 power is definitely a "target only" hunk of glass.

I have a friend's 3.5-10 x 50mm Leupold on the rifle right now. However, I don't find the 10 power setting to be enough for really long shots. That's one reason I'm looking for something more powerful.

Thanks for your thoughts. KISS is always a good principle to keep in mind.
 
I've done a huge amount of shooting with a 4x scope out to 500m. You need bright light and can still group tight, but with a 4x you can't read mirrage or wind. A 10 or 14x is better and gives that sight picture/clarity on the smaller aiming marks that you need; so long as the scope is mounted on a relatively heavy stiff rifle. Spotting scopes with higher power, 20-30-50x, which can also throw their focus catch the wind/mirrage/conditions best. Too much magnification on your rifle doesn't help ones marksmanship without a whole lot of practice. It just makes your brain think you are all over the place to the point that you over compensate; well until you consciously teach yourself to ignore the wobble. You can also take too long in the aim trying to get everything too right until you run out of air; which is a easy way to make a bad shot.
Even at 1000m over 20x is too much to handle; you are not seeing the real target anyway. (The tightest groups at 1000m are done with match open sights at match targets with wind coaches using spotting scopes to give adjustments). I do like highish power, 14x, for shooting at very small targets at shortish ranges. I have a varmint 222 set up this way. Unless you are specifically shooting benchrest I wouldn't go above 14x.
At timed pop up reactive targets at different ranges out to 500m, an 8x or 10x is more than enough with a 42 or 48 objective giving a reasonable field of view. More and you won't lock on and fire fast enough. Light rifles: I can't see the point of going above a 6x (6x42). I have 1.2x on my double rifle and then open sights are often better (running wild boar).

High magnification shows up your natural wobble. You cannot compensate for natural wobble, but have to learn to live with it. If you try to actively compensate you will make things worse. Good breathing techniques help manage it. Concentration on the apex of the cross hairs works best for me in trying to minimise my desire to do something about the wobble. If sight alignment is out never force an alteration; start again and readjust. A deliberate shot takes three seconds. Longer you should start again; less and you are snap shooting. One second to set yourself up, lock on and stop breathing. One second to concentrate on your sight picture/alignment, apply pressure to the trigger, and hold the aim until the round goes off (which should be a nice surprise). Last second to follow through and for your world, after recoil, to return to normal; hopefully all being well you should be looking at the target again. Then breath and think of other things like the fly that has settled on your nose. If really well practiced you can do all three steps in a little less.

It works for me.
 
GREENJACKET,

I appreciate the additional advice. I also like high magnification for small targets that are relatively close. My Browning Model 52 .22 bolt rifle has a 6-18 x 42 mm that is very helpful for head shots on squirrels at 100 yards.

Your comments lead me to conclude that I should try some friends' optics before investing in a high-power scope for myself. I have tried some fixed benchrest scopes of about 36 power, but would really prefer the option of zooming down to a lower power when conditions warrant it. Maybe I could make something like the 6-18 x 42mm work for longer distances.

Thanks again for your perspective on the question.
 
Head shots on rodents is a great way to test ones marksmanship whilst doing a useful job. The overriding limitation is the rifle/ammunition group size at range. I have a intergrated supressed 10/22 T custom, for sub sonic .22 LR, for night shooting. The combination working range is 55m garanteeing a group less than an inch. I also have a Anschutz 1710, with high velocity .22LR, to go out to 80m. Reaching further and there will be misses. My Sako varmint 222 holds an inch out to 140m. My rule of thumb is that wind effects point of impact at about 2/3rds the "sweet spot" range. I've had a 308 in the past that wouldn't group tight at a hundred but did almost a minute of angle out to three and half; sweet spot 240m. Sweet spot is as far as you and the rifle combination can go without outside influences having any real inpact, matched to expected target size. A little input is still require, bullet drop, uphill downhill, but not too much. Target size can be a squirrels head or a moose's engine room but I always aim for a pimple.
One other thing, sights are often not aligned to the barrel, so as you add elevation you can also be adding some left or right.
I shoot factory ammo.

Do do some of your own tests and see what works for you. Atmospheric conditions, light and wind after about 400m doesn't allow for a true target picture. The target isn't actually where you see it. All you can try and do is to make the best shot consistently. Group size is then down to the rifle combination, your shot, and how you read the conditions.
The exception may be with benchrest 18lbs rifles, where wobble isn't a distraction. Lighter rifles and your body will be influencing what happens down range. Thats why I don't think higher magnification is any help. Shorter ranges you see what is actually there so you can take advantage of the magnification. In deliberate pistol shooting your focus is no further than the foresight, the target is blurred, but you can group tight.

I would be interested if higher magnification realy improves your long range groupings or not. I just think there is a limit to what is actually useful. Do tell us how you get on.
 
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