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Nimravus Cub in M2
- Thread starter Soloman
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dogboye
Gold Member
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- Nov 23, 1999
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Um, yes, you will. Without a doubt. The only thing that would stop you from loving it, I believe, is if you get one that had really SH***Y quality control. I have one, and it can compete with the two customs that I own in sheer usefulness and being the ideal size. Of course, the quality, workmanship, and handles of the customs are far and away above the Cub, but those are the things that you pay extra for in customs. But, I have yet to find anything that compares with the M2 in edge holding, and that includes "awesome" CPM-440V (production knives). If you don't like it, I'm sure you can sell it to either UW Mitch or me
. OBTW, from my experience, M2 (uncoated, like mine is) doesn't rust nearly as bad as the forums would have you believe. Mine has been naked for a couple of months now, with no corrosion whatsoever.
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
- Joined
- Jul 9, 1999
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rockspyder,
Is this the one that you removed the black-T with a 3M scrub pad? If so, I think you still have a light coat of the Black-T in the grind lines of the blade.
This is where most corrosion starts.
Totally uncoated M-2 likes to combine with oxygen to form rust. According to one of my steel charts M-2 has 4% Chromium, which offers a very small degree of corrosion resistance, but not much. I think your getting better than average corrosion protection from the Black-Teflon still residing in the grind lines of your blade. This is all assuming that you did remove the Black-T that, I believe, is standard on this particular model.
OBTW, I agree with your Cub assessment. Great knife, excellent edge holding steel.
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My new bumper sticker:
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[This message has been edited by misque (edited 02-16-2000).]
Is this the one that you removed the black-T with a 3M scrub pad? If so, I think you still have a light coat of the Black-T in the grind lines of the blade.
This is where most corrosion starts.
Totally uncoated M-2 likes to combine with oxygen to form rust. According to one of my steel charts M-2 has 4% Chromium, which offers a very small degree of corrosion resistance, but not much. I think your getting better than average corrosion protection from the Black-Teflon still residing in the grind lines of your blade. This is all assuming that you did remove the Black-T that, I believe, is standard on this particular model.
OBTW, I agree with your Cub assessment. Great knife, excellent edge holding steel.
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My new bumper sticker:
Let me tell you about my SIFU!
[This message has been edited by misque (edited 02-16-2000).]
- Joined
- Nov 11, 1999
- Messages
- 270
I have to chime in too, it is an awesome knife. I have just started to use mine and already actually like it better than my full size Nimravus which has seen a lot of use. The M2 steel holds an edge better than anything else I have had personal experience with. As an added bonus I am experiencing the same thing as Rockspyder on the knife I removed the coating on - no rust at all. I carry it in a neck sheath a lot and it has been exposed to a lot of sweat with no problems. I am convinced there is indeed some of the black T coating left in the steel somewhere as it seems more resistant than my bead blasted ats-34 or aus-8 knives.
David
David
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- Jul 9, 1999
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WOW!
The more I hear about this, the more intrigued I get about it. There is no doubt that the knife looks worlds better without the coating. When I saw that scan of the naked Nimravus, I nearly swooned!
pant...pant...
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My new bumper sticker:
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The more I hear about this, the more intrigued I get about it. There is no doubt that the knife looks worlds better without the coating. When I saw that scan of the naked Nimravus, I nearly swooned!
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My new bumper sticker:
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- Joined
- Nov 11, 1999
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- 270
It made my week when I took off the coating and had a good look, I'm going to strip the cub this weekend. I re-read my above post and think I should explain more on my comparison to the stain resistant steels. I took both a CRKT M16-3 and my stripped Nimravus with me on this last weekends outing to the coast. Both were in the rain all day and used as much as possible including to cut up a large italian sub. The next morning the aus8 M16 looked horrible, frankly I was a little surprised based on my experience with CS's knives in the same steel. The Nimravus looked perfect, so good that I haven't bothered even wiping it down yet. My other bead blasted knives in ats-34 are all Benchmades (CQC7 and AFO9000) and are also quick to stain. Obviously the bead blasting is not doing these knives any favors for stain resistance. So, although I am unsure of how M2 would do by itself (I suspect poorly), taking off the BT coating has definitely not turned it into a maintenance monster. Compared to some bead blasted stain resistant blades it is actually fairly amazing IMHO. I'm going to take the scales off and have a look underneath soon, I'll post if I find anything worthy.
Hmm, to my knowledge and I may be off-base here, is that the Black-T coating actually penetrates into the top layer of metal. This means that you still have the benefits of the Black-T coating to an extent even though you remove the visible part of the coating. That is, until you start removing metal from the knife. Again, I may be wrong, but I believe that the Black-T is actually Titanium Oxide or Titanium Carbide.
This could explain why your Cub hasn't rusted away yet, Rock
My 2 cents
Regards
Joshua "Kage" Calvert
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"Move like Water, strike like Thunder..."
This could explain why your Cub hasn't rusted away yet, Rock
My 2 cents
Regards
Joshua "Kage" Calvert
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"Move like Water, strike like Thunder..."
- Joined
- Jul 9, 1999
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carnifex,
The Black-T we are talking about is Black Teflon.
You are, however, correct about Black-Ti. It penetrates to a few molecules deep into the blade's surface, if I remember correctly.
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My new bumper sticker:
Let me tell you about my SIFU!
The Black-T we are talking about is Black Teflon.
You are, however, correct about Black-Ti. It penetrates to a few molecules deep into the blade's surface, if I remember correctly.
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My new bumper sticker:
Let me tell you about my SIFU!
dogboye
Gold Member
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- Nov 23, 1999
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- 7,192
Ummmm... I doubt that there is any BT left on my Cub, anywhere except under the scales, where I meant to leave it. Here is why:
I removed anywhere from about 0.5 to about 3 mm from the spine of my Cub. Yes, that's 3mm! Or even more. I completely ground off the thumb ramp, from just above the scales all the way out to where the swedge starts on the blade. Gone! Additionally, I initially used 400 grit sandpaper (not 3m scrub pad or Scotchbrite) to remove the BT from the sides of the blade. The I went to 600 grit, IIRC, and finally went to a polishing wheel coated in jewelers' rouge. So, I removed more than a few molecules from the spine and the flats of the blade.
I carry it all the time, but not against my skin or inside my shirt; just under a coat or sweater. So, it is not in contact with my sweat. However, I do live right on the shore of the Chesapeake Bay, where the wind whips up the water enough sometimes that you can smell the salt in the air. In any case, it's isn't corroding or staining at all.
Sorry it took so long for me to reply. I wish I had a digital camera, or a scanner that I could get an image of my Cub. But, it has changed quite a bit from when it left the factory. It is a worker, and looks it. The M2 is awesome.
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
[This message has been edited by rockspyder (edited 02-17-2000).]
I removed anywhere from about 0.5 to about 3 mm from the spine of my Cub. Yes, that's 3mm! Or even more. I completely ground off the thumb ramp, from just above the scales all the way out to where the swedge starts on the blade. Gone! Additionally, I initially used 400 grit sandpaper (not 3m scrub pad or Scotchbrite) to remove the BT from the sides of the blade. The I went to 600 grit, IIRC, and finally went to a polishing wheel coated in jewelers' rouge. So, I removed more than a few molecules from the spine and the flats of the blade.
I carry it all the time, but not against my skin or inside my shirt; just under a coat or sweater. So, it is not in contact with my sweat. However, I do live right on the shore of the Chesapeake Bay, where the wind whips up the water enough sometimes that you can smell the salt in the air. In any case, it's isn't corroding or staining at all.
Sorry it took so long for me to reply. I wish I had a digital camera, or a scanner that I could get an image of my Cub. But, it has changed quite a bit from when it left the factory. It is a worker, and looks it. The M2 is awesome.
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
[This message has been edited by rockspyder (edited 02-17-2000).]
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Gawd!!
Dude, beg, borrow or steal a scanner! This I have GOT to see!
Yeah, there probably isn't any Black-T left after the sandpaper treatment, for sure.
Still, butt naked M-2 in a salty environment?
I don't doubt you, but it still is hard for me to picture this steel standing up to salty conditions without a speck of corrosion.
Oh well, it's hard for me to picture Bill Clinton as POTUS, so this is not that big of a stretch.
------------------
My new bumper sticker:
Let me tell you about my SIFU!
Dude, beg, borrow or steal a scanner! This I have GOT to see!
Yeah, there probably isn't any Black-T left after the sandpaper treatment, for sure.
Still, butt naked M-2 in a salty environment?
I don't doubt you, but it still is hard for me to picture this steel standing up to salty conditions without a speck of corrosion.
Oh well, it's hard for me to picture Bill Clinton as POTUS, so this is not that big of a stretch.
------------------
My new bumper sticker:
Let me tell you about my SIFU!
That M2 steel is quite remarkable. After an improved edge angle on my personal M2 AFCK, it rarely needs the attention of my Sharpmaker. It has gone thru cardboard, plastic wrap, nylon cord, paper, plastic ties, rubber tubes and tires and food. The Black T finish holds up well and as long as you wash off the blade after use, corrosion is not a problem.
L8r,
Nakano
L8r,
Nakano
dogboye
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Misque, there's a guy at work that I think has a digital camera. I will try to either get it in to work Monday (I'm off today) and have him take a pic, or try to find and fire up a scanner there to see if it will capture the image well enough.
I use the knife quite a bit, so I can only assume that it is picking up oils from my hands, and that is offering some protection. After I first sanded everything off, and reshaped, I did keep some olive oil on it the first few days. But that was back right around Jan. 1. So, it has been ... OK, not two months, but only six weeks. But, I quickly (within a week) tired of putting up with the oil, and just wipe it with my fingers or jeans every time I use it. So, I dunno. Not really maintenance, just the sort of stuff you do to any knife so it doesn't get crap all over you.
I'll get a picture of it on the 'net as soon as I possibly can.
OBTW, I should mention, I did not take the blade to a full polish. All the 600 grit and polishing wheel did was minimize, or try, the profusion of sandpaper scratches. Hence me stating that it is a worker, and looks it. Yeah, it shines a little, but it is still... "in the rough."
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
[This message has been edited by rockspyder (edited 02-18-2000).]
I use the knife quite a bit, so I can only assume that it is picking up oils from my hands, and that is offering some protection. After I first sanded everything off, and reshaped, I did keep some olive oil on it the first few days. But that was back right around Jan. 1. So, it has been ... OK, not two months, but only six weeks. But, I quickly (within a week) tired of putting up with the oil, and just wipe it with my fingers or jeans every time I use it. So, I dunno. Not really maintenance, just the sort of stuff you do to any knife so it doesn't get crap all over you.
I'll get a picture of it on the 'net as soon as I possibly can.
OBTW, I should mention, I did not take the blade to a full polish. All the 600 grit and polishing wheel did was minimize, or try, the profusion of sandpaper scratches. Hence me stating that it is a worker, and looks it. Yeah, it shines a little, but it is still... "in the rough."
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
[This message has been edited by rockspyder (edited 02-18-2000).]
dogboye
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- Nov 23, 1999
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misque, standby for a picture or two. I finally got the naked M2 Nimravus Cub scanned, but ran out of time before I could get everything set up to have a picture here, or a link. I should have one here by mid-morning tomorrow (Thursday), EDT.
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inktomi
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inktomi
