Nimravus/Torx screws

mr44

mr44

Joined
Dec 16, 1999
Messages
383
I've decided to remove the BT2 coating on my new Nimravus using the Scotchbrite technique, but in order to do a proper job it seems that I must remove the handles. I need to get some Torx drivers anyway, since my CRKT folders use that type of fastener also. Does anyone know whether the Nimravus' screws are Metric or Imperial? I'd hate to grab the wrong $%#$%@'n drivers, and I'm really anxious to get that icky black stuff off the knife ASAP!

Thanks,
PM

[This message has been edited by mr44 (edited 01-05-2000).]
 
I got my Torx screwdriver at Sears; I'm not sure what size, but it says T7 x 40 on the handle.

Hope this helps!
smile.gif
 
mr44; unlike allen wrenches, which come in metric and inch sizes, Torx fasteners are all the same, to the best of my knowledge, and I have used my Torx drivers on USA and foreign made knives.

Sears is the best place to get them. You can get a set of 12 precision screwdrivers for about $20; Cat # 941670; this contains
T6, T7, T8, and T9. For the larger sizes, they sell a small white pouch with four Torx bits for about $3; Cat # 941402. This contains T10, T15, T20, and T25. These bits fit any hex driver.
 
Your nimravus takes a #15 torx wrench.

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janefromnc

walker
 
PM, two words-Canadian Tire.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
mr44,
Sear's is the best place I've found to get Torx drivers.
They also have the smaller sizes that are all too difficult to find elsewhere.
frown.gif

Show us the results, if you please!
biggrin.gif


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So, what IS the speed of dark?
 
Have fun removing the BT and take your time. Definitely plan to completely re-sharpen the knife when you're done, it will be completely dull. The coating on my Nimravus was getting worn and after seeing what the4th did with his, I removed the coating. Mine came out almost the same as the photo he posted, but the Benchmade logo is almost gone. It looks great and after adding a knotted cord to the lanyard hole, it's a piece of cake to draw from the sheath.
Tonk
 
Tatonka, do you have any pics of your Nimravus you could post? I just put my first scratches in one of mine and am already itching to get rid of the coating.

David
 
Thanks to all who replied. I went to Canadian Tire and just grabbed a set of Torx drivers for around $24, and the #10 was the one that fit, BTW. Couldn't get geniune 3M Scotchbrite(tm), but the generic equivalent seems to work just fine. Removing the finish was easy but time consuming, and it looks like I've got another couple of hours left to go now that I've seen the blade in the daylight. One thing that I did notice is that the edges of the tang area were impossible to fully clean using only the scotchbrite. I would rub forever, and some areas would just never come clean.

Upon close inspection, I found the reason: There was a slight lip of metal present on many areas of the tang edge, which seemed to be an artifact from the factory blade stamping/blanking process. (So much for Benchmade's "laser cut tolerances of less than 0.00005 inch" as stated on the box...) This was preventing the pad from contacting the coating in certain areas, so I just wet sanded around the entire tang with some "fine" (no grit indicated) wet/dryp paper and finished up with the pad. Everything nice and smooth now...

I'm definitely happy with the results, even at this 90% done stage. The blade looks so much nicer now that one can see the angles and grinds more clearly, and the contrasting effect of the G-10 handles outlined by the satin finished tang edges is awesome... I'm not looking forward to cleaning out those thumb ramp serrations, though... And of course re-sharpening. This process really kills the edge, so if anyone else is going to do it, make sure you've got the means and skills to re-sharpen your blade from a depressingly dull state!
 
Another look at the 4ths picture and reading these posts has convinced me to go for it. Mine is a M2 model, I have read where someone suggested using epoxy on the scales to prevent rusting under the handle - anyone know what epoxy would be best to use for this?

Thanks,
David
 
I cleaned up my M2 Nimravus Cub over the weekend. I didn't put any epoxy under the scales on mine, as I was afraid I would do an incomplete job of coating, and it would rust without me knowing it. I just left most of the coating intact underneath the scales, and coated the tang with oil before I reassembled. This way, I can periodically remove the scales to inspect and re-apply the oil.

However, I am interested in what type of epoxy the more learned around here would suggest.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
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