Nipple length on Reil burner

[Protactical]

I have to fabricate the 3/4" x 8" nipples for my reil burners. I bought one 24" nipple, and will just saw off what I need from the ends. The plans say to start with an 8" nipple, and remove the threaded sections from one end. I can easily calc what that should be, but I wonder whether anyone has any ideas on how to optimize this dimension. Does any one length work better than another?

 

[Bruz]

The length of the pipe can differ depending on how and where you put the jet, what type of jet you use, the size of the orfice, etc. Took me 3 burners before I made one that fit my needs. Read all you can then experiment...if you come up with something new share it! My burner does not even get warm when in use.

 

[Protactical]

I guess i could cut the 24" to 3 lengths, and if lucky I should be able to get one, maybe two that really work.

Is an advantage of the side arm design (like yours) that you can move the jet in and out?

I noticed that Zoeller's current forge has Reil burners on it.

 

[Bruz]

I guess i could cut the 24" to 3 lengths

Unless you have a die to re-thread it you will probably want to just cut it in half so you will have two pipes with threads on them.


Is an advantage of the side arm design (like yours) that you can move the jet in and out?

Yep, it allows me to move it in and out so I can get the best "heat cone", but the other reason is that it is designed so the jet and rubber hose full of explosive gas is not in contact with the rest of the burner, and the fire in the forge. The jet stays cool no matter how hot the forge gets. The other hole in the "T" is for a fan if I ever need one.

 

[Protactical]

HD will rethread for 75 cents.

On the heat thing, I understand that folks say their burners don't get hot during operation, but the chimney effect after you shut down might cause problems, as you say witht he whole thing being full of explosive gas. Some people make the burners easily removeable, so that they don't get hot, but when I have read of that the main reason was because they didn't want to have burner wear.

Zoeller has a nice forge on his page, and the burners look permanently mounted, not in the sense that they are welded on, but in the sense that since he joined them, it looks awkward to pull them both every time. Is there a gas quick disconect one can use?

The burner shouldn't get hot from running. It is instaled so that it is flush with the outside of the forge shell. I would have thought that the heat of the forge, or even just the heat of the shell, which some people mention can get hot, depending on their design might make the burner heat up.