NMFBM and TTKZ questions

[Beckerhead83]

OK so I have seen a few NMFBM vs NMFBMLE threads but they were a while back and didn't really see much, I figure there is more experience with these blades by now. Which one do you think would be the better chopper. I have heard some people think the .25 NMFBM bites deeper than the Le, and vise versa. I also am interested in the TTKZ but have heard the grind really works against its self. Anyone with experience with these beasts? Pics are always welcome .

 

[Jroden5446]

Having owned and used both, I prefer the Zilla


[video=youtube_share;z_sUgzHieHQ]http://youtu.be/z_sUgzHieHQ[/video]

 

[Beckerhead83]

Was the grind thinned out on yours?

 

[Last Visible Canary]

I've used both and preferred the TTKZ, especially once it was custom shopped to be a bit thinner. In it's stock format the grind is too thick, but it's usable once you put a good initial cutting edge on it. Aside from the balance and heaviness of the TTKZ over the NMFBM, the TTKZ handle alone is worth trying out if you have the money for either/both. Every hand and preference is different, but for a medium to large sized hands the TTKZ is more filling. The fusion hand has a few things working against it (for me), the palm and finger swell is small radius making it bite into the metacarpals (palm bones) and the fingers during chopping and the pinky position is very small, allowing the handle to move around in the grip. In a smaller knife that would allow for wrist snaps and small rotations without having to move the arm to much, on a larger knife you just can't do that without intense forearm fatigue or pain. The TTKZ handle adresses all of the major problematic issues of the fusion handle, the index finger and pinky positions are taller and closer to being the same heigth, making for a consistent substantial grip. It also helps make for a larger radius curve on the palm and finger swell so that there is less biting during a hard grip. You get a one position solid lock up in the hand thats good for a knife that requires your entire arm to move around.

Seriously one of the best ergonomic exposed tang handle designs on a chopper produced to date:

The one major draw back is how sharp the machining is. It will cut your hand up during chopping if you don't take sand paper to the tube fasteners counter sink. At least thats true on the g10 version, it might not be as bad on the canvas micarta.

 

[Jroden5446]

Was the grind thinned out on yours?

Yep, I thinned the primary a bit ( or optimized it as I like to say)

 

[Beckerhead83]

Anyone have any experience with the NMFBM against the NMFBMLE?

 

[PeterPHWS]

I have had both too and basically the TTKZ is going to eclipse the NMFBM if the geometry on the primary grind is optimised on both. The TTKZ is a heavier knife with a deeper chopping blade. From what you have said in your post it looks like you have read most of the points people have made in previous posts - for ease of getting straight into a great chopper and not needing to work on the blade - I would look for a recent release Zilla ( a show special or Ganza special ) or an old Combat Grade NMFBM which comes in at around .25 to .26. If you strip the NMFBM and then polish the tool marks out under the paint to a home made satin finish with a fully convex edge you get a great edge profile and a great primary grind taper.

I did this as these were released a long time ago ... later when the TTKZ's were released I used the Ghetto NMFBM to give me the shape of grind I wanted to take my Zilla to.

To-date this has been the most successful chopping "profile" I have used. I have altered my KZII to this profile and a 10 inch blade I have by Kiku Matsuda ... they all improved radically on chopping through wood. You just need a good micrometer and a bit of skill on a belt sander to alter these ... if this is not what you want to learn ... then the NMFBM CG is likely to be your best option ... or a later released Zilla where the shop started to use a more appleseed grind.

The NMFBM and the NMFBM LE is a bit like comparing the NMFBM and the TTKZ ... when Busse does a satin finish they seem to remove less steel or perhaps use thicker stock. Particularly if the edge is fully convex as the edge type dictates potentially removal of steel across the whole grind profile to sharpen ... so by having more steel in the original knife you give greater "lifespan" to the blade. The down side of this is that edge profiles - like bullet shapes - have an optimum shape for low drag - the CG NMFBM is closer to this - you can get a NMFBM LE to chop really well but the grind behind the edge needs to thinned back to give an appleseed shape.

 

[Beckerhead83]

Thanks peter your post is very helpful. I am really liking the TTKZ but I'm just hesitant on using a grinder on her. Thanks for the advice. If I do pull the trigger on the KZ I was thinking I would also like to take the scales off and skeletonize the handles out. Ill just have to learn how to take the tubes off. I think I remember there being a thread on such a job here on BF.

 

[AZTimT]

I held Peter's TTKZ and it was the thinnest one at the show with excellent balance. I wound up with one of the significantly heavier versions that feels like all of the rest. Lightening the handle on a TTKZ is going to throw the balance WAY off in the wrong direction... I would lighten the front if anything, and mine is already missing some metal out front while sporting heavy g10 in back.

Oh, and all three NMFBM's moved on while the TTKZ stayed put.

 

[CPC]

The one major draw back is how sharp the machining is. It will cut your hand up during chopping if you don't take sand paper to the tube fasteners counter sink. At least thats true on the g10 version, it might not be as bad on the canvas micarta.

I find this to be an annoying issue on many of the knives generally. G10 is worse than canvas.

Chris.

 

[RobStanley]

I find this to be an annoying issue on many of the knives generally. G10 is worse than canvas.

Chris.

Canvas is the best for hard users I reckon. Especially on a big heavy knife.

 

[CPC]

Canvas is the best for hard users I reckon. Especially on a big heavy knife.

Agreed. I'm a black canvas fan but have been known to settle for snakeskin or the occasional tigerhide piece

Back on topic - what are the different thicknesses and grind types of the NMFBM's?

Chris.

 

[Yabba]

Curse the TTKZ..... I'm only new to the world of Busse and being a 'Traditional' Nepalese Kukri fan the KZ was my first ever Busse purchase. Big mistake. Now that I've been exposed I want more & more of this quality product...lol. For a flat out chopper, a KZ or Kukri is only beat by an axe or chainsaw. I find all large Kukri's somewhat difficult to use as an all round type of knife but.

Mr Jerry Busse please work on a KZ 3 'God Zilla' incorporating the best from KZ & KZ2 plus a lil sumn special :thumbup:

 

[knife hunter]

Here is # 3. Well, really it was #1 but wasnt released until this last year at blade in very limited #'s . 6, 6 and 5 made = 17 total unless I missed a color. I think there were 3 colors . Two are shown and last was 1/5 black/ black g10-Darth Vader

Its the KZ proto and I think its the best. THe handle is tad shorter so I get a better secure grip . THis is my favorite handle for a chopper Busse has ever made. THe blade profile is a little more elongated instead of curved and has a much slimmer blade geometry.:thumbup:

 

[Beckerhead83]

Knifehunter, do you have the weight on the protos?

 

[knife hunter]

Knifehunter, do you have the weight on the protos?

yes, just weighed it for ya- 36.8 ozs on desert and 36.6 ozs on Darth Vader not shown. Also its black g10 not paper on third color combo not shown

ETA:

compared to

KZTT= 37.6oz- this is g10 weight not black paper
KZII= 33.4oz