No rivet kydex

Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
1,976
A while back I read a question about not using rivets on a kydex sheath. I had tried gluing some kydex and it seemed to work well so I decided to make a sheath with no rivets at all. Of course I had to make the knife to go in the sheath first.
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I used Lasco purple primer and Lasco clear PVC cement pry it opened and primer well. apply cement and lightly clamp shut. I've really put a lot of pressure on the loop at the top to make sure at would hold. Very secure so far.
 
I've been able to heat seal my Kydex sheaths on my integral crowbar knives, I put the kydex in the oven when it's hot enough I fold it over the knife and firmly press smooth side to smooth side, haven't had one release yet. I'll have to try the glue thing, see if it's easier, I don't like tubular rivets.


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I've been able to heat seal my Kydex sheaths on my integral crowbar knives, I put the kydex in the oven when it's hot enough I fold it over the knife and firmly press smooth side to smooth side, haven't had one release yet. I'll have to try the glue thing, see if it's easier, I don't like tubular rivets.


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That is very true. When it reaches a high temp. it does stick together, and quite well.
 
I've been able to heat seal my Kydex sheaths on my integral crowbar knives, I put the kydex in the oven when it's hot enough I fold it over the knife and firmly press smooth side to smooth side, haven't had one release yet. I'll have to try the glue thing, see if it's easier, I don't like tubular rivets.


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I use a heat gun to form the kydex. I think I have been to conservative on the heat. Will thy a higher temp. On the red kydex I put the smooth side out. Just to shinny to hide. The Lasco glue is clear and wipes right off as long as your prompt. Cant imagine it being any easier.
 
The only reason I prefer the rivets is because they provide a mechanical fastener that won't let the edge of the blade blow through the seam.With glue or heat I'd be a bit worried that a tip or edge could catch the seam and open it up.
 
Kydex is just heat formable PVC...it will melt together with the right heat and become a solid piece!
Same for the glue they are describing it actually chemically melts the pieces together.
Ever tried to seperate a glued piece of PVC pipe...same thing. The PVC will fail before the joint, so a knife tip would go thru rivet or no...
 
I never use rivets, but just fold over a tab that has been sanded down to help hold it- never had one let go yet and it does have a mechanical hold. Bikermikearchery- I would be interested as the first couple of sheaths I ever did were milk jug and glued denim.
 
Kydex sheaths with no eyelets?

Put one of those neck knives in its sheath, grab the handle, and jam it hard point down on your workbench.

I'd hate to fall down and have that happen to me.

Kydex sheaths, especially for neck knives, need mechanical fasteners.



AL P.

www.polkowskiknives.com
 
Kydex sheaths with no eyelets?

Put one of those neck knives in its sheath, grab the handle, and jam it hard point down on your workbench.

I'd hate to fall down and have that happen to me.

Kydex sheaths, especially for neck knives, need mechanical fasteners.



AL P.

www.polkowskiknives.com
Well thank you for your concern but my test have shown that it takes less force for the knife to cut through a soft brass rivet than fused kydex. The first no rivet sheath I made were for my chisels that kept cutting through the rivet in the bottom of there sheath.
 
What we are talking about is having eyelets spaced in such a way that the knife can't protrude far enough to do damage, sliding between two eyelets and stopping. It's about the tip of the knife shoving through the kydex and then being stopped between two eyelets before it does too much harm.

I score/cut my kydex with a knife and work it easily with hand tools after it's formed. I don't think it's harder than brass, although I don't have any charts to prove it. I can see a situation where a chisel edge pushing down on a single point would be different, but I don't think that's a good enough basis to discount mechanical fasteners all together.

Really not trying to start an argument here, hope no one is offended. Just putting another view point out there for folks to see.
 
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