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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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non-stabilized wood...
- Thread starter SkaerE
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2000
- Messages
- 509
SkaerE, I have only worked with 2 different non-stabilized woods and to the best of my limited knowledge neither one needs to be stabilized. The ones that I have worked with are Iron wood and Cocobolo. Cocobolo is so oily that it doesn't so well in the stabilizing process and from what I hear doesn't need it. I've heard that Iron wood doesn't need it either being so dense. Both typse of wood I just sanded them to about 800 grit and then lightly buffed with a loose buff and some buffing compound. Both woods took a really nice polish! I'm sure that there are other (better) ways of finishing it, that's what has worked for me so far.
Rick
Rick
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2001
- Messages
- 2,632
Linseed oil, tung oil, superglue, polyurethane, a clear or color stain, And I am sure there is the good ole sweat and blood method of just working with it.
If it is not a naturally stabilized wood, such as those posted above, use a deep sealing coat first (after the handle is fully fashioned and ready for finish). For example: mix mineral spirits with Tung oil (about 3 to 1 in favor of mineral spirits). brush on liberally and let it soak deep into the wood. After curing, at least 24 hours, a second sealer can be applied and it can be heavier - say 2 to 1.
Roger
Roger