non-stainless pocket knives: best way to remove rust from those?

scotch brite pad & WD40 - then clean off the WD and add a light coat of oil or paste wax to seal it. (paste wax is great for storage or carry, it just has to be renewed after moderate use)
Since WD40 is acidic, it does a good job of dissolving rust, but will promote further corrosion.
 
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser then good car wax (as long as you are not using the knife for food prep).
 
naval jelly, a wire wheel on the bench grinder, sandpaper, you may even be able to scrape some off with another blade. it really depends on how much rust you have there.
 
1066vik said:
scotch brite pad & WD40 - then clean off the WD and add a light coat of oil or paste wax to seal it. (paste wax is great for storage or carry, it just has to be renewed after moderate use)
Since WD40 is acidic, it does a good job of dissolving rust, but will promote further corrosion.
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If this were true then wouldn't WD40 be worthless? And wouldn't there be households full of rusting equipment because the average person uses the stuff like it is lube and it never gets washed off? Have a link to more info as I find this hard to believe?
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
If this were true then wouldn't WD40 be worthless? And wouldn't there be households full of rusting equipment because the average person uses the stuff like it is lube and it never gets washed off? Have a link to more info as I find this hard to believe?
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WD-40 isn't acidic to my knowledge.
 
uhoh, not another wd40 debate, from my knowlage(whats printed on the can) wd40 is a water displacement product that does an exceptional job at preventing rust. it can be used as a light lubricant but thats not where its most effective
 
WD 40 is not acidic. I use it with 0000 steel wool to remove rust.
And people pay me big bucks to remove their rust!
 
Josh K said:
Barkeepers Friend followed with a Tuf-Cloth.
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I agree. his is the easiest way I've found. Understand that Barkeepers will remove not only rust but also much of any patina that might be on the blade. Also great for sprucing up those stainless pots and pans.
 
IMO if you could only have one product to use on traditional slipjoints, which have to account for the overwhelming majority of non-stainless pocket knives, I'd pick WD40. It's a decent penetrant that helps in removing rust/corrosion, good degunker, and contains light mineral oil for rust protection. Not the best at anything, but a useful overall product.

You might find this amusing: looks like it's actually a better rust preventative than a product called ... Rust Prevent! :) -- http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

catspa said:
WD-40? I hear it reduces hemorrhoidal itching when properly applied.
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LOL! I think I'm going to enjoy having you around here on BFC, Parker.
 
When I was in high school I lost a finger in shop class. The teacher sprayed some WD-40 on the stub and in 2 days my finger grew back! Now I keep some in my first aid kit.
 
Stelth said:
When I was in high school I lost a finger in shop class. The teacher sprayed some WD-40 on the stub and in 2 days my finger grew back! Now I keep some in my first aid kit.
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You should see what the over spray did when using it for the hemorrhoids :thumbup:

:eek::eek:
 
Another product to consider.
I do a fair amount of restoration work on older/used knives, mostly carbon steel, and (when a client wants the patina removed) I always reach for my Flitz and soft cotton rag (old T-shrit). This works for most light rust.
I have used this product for just over 20 years and am very happy with it. It also leaves a coating that helps fight off rust in the future.

I works great on just about all metal parts of most knives (alluminum, brass, silver, etc.).

I have also begun using Bar Keepers Friend, and like it as well, although I am just more comfortable with Flitz.
 
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