Noob question: What kind of axe should I be looking for?

Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
9
Hello all,

In the past I've always used a cheap axe that belonged to a friend of my fathers and it did okay for what it was but I want to buy my own for the upcoming hunting seasons. I've been looking at Wetterlings and Gränsfors Bruks because of the quality they are supposed to carry.

In the past, I've always been able to locate and limb a fallen tree and chop it into smaller pieces to be taken back into camp. From there if the pieces are too large I'll split them into smaller pieces. I've never bothered working on trees thicker than 15" in diameter because it's always seemed like more work than it's worth. I guess if I lived somewhere that depended on a large supply of firewood for warmth then it would be a different story but I live in AZ and the only time I need an axe is when I go hunting in the forest. Otherwise I spend most of my time in the desert and there's not too much need for an axe but on a few occasions it would have been nice to have one with me.

The last thing is it can't be overly huge because I'll probably want to strap it to my pack when I go hunting.

So far I've come down to the G.B. Scandinavian Forest Axe, G.B. American Felling Axe, Wetterlings American Forest Axe, or the Wetterlings Swedish Forest Axe but I will consider any other suggestions you guys give me to look into.

So what do you guys think would be the best way to go for an axe that will handle all of my camp chores with ease but not be too large to strap onto a big hunting backpack?

Thanks Guys,
-Dylan
 
Well, I have both the GB AFA and the GB SFA. Both are fine axes, but I don't think that you would want to be humping around with the AFA. It's just not really designed for backpacking.
It would be fine if you had a mule though :p
The SFA would be a good choice for your needs, but you might also consider a nice vintage 'boys axe' or even a new American made Council Tool 'boys axe'.
The vintage or CT would be better choices IMHO. The slightly larger boys axes give you more 'bang for your buck' than the SFA with just a little extra weight added to your load.
 
.... but you might also consider a nice vintage 'boys axe' or even a new American made Council Tool 'boys axe'.

This is good advice. An American style boy's axe with it's convex cheeks will be better at processing wood than the flat-cheeked European axes which are really designed more for bushcraft. Plus a boy's axe will still do bushcraft well if you keep it sharp.
 
Hopefully I don't seem too naive but what exactly does bushcraft entail and what makes the European axes ideal for that instead of what I'm looking to do with it? Please keep in mind I'm new to the different types of axes and what they're meant to be used for.

Thanks for the input so far gentleman! Keep it coming!!

-Dylan
 
Bushcrafting with an axe is wood carving, making stakes, traps, shelters, etc. Thin-bladed axes do well at carving. But they are less effective at felling, bucking and splitting. The thin cheeks tend to stick in the wood where a convex-cheeked axe wouldn't stick and would instead throw out wood chips. Thin-bladed axes will often fail either by chipping or rolling an edge when they strike hard knots. A properly convexed edge is better able to withstand that.
 
This is good advice. An American style boy's axe with it's convex cheeks will be better at processing wood than the flat-cheeked European axes which are really designed more for bushcraft. Plus a boy's axe will still do bushcraft well if you keep it sharp.

and I've found that the flat cheeked axes like the GB AFA tend to glance off a lot easier or at least that's what mine did. Can't bring myself to get rid of it yet.

Boys axe. vintage or new Council. The Forest service edition is nice.
 
and I've found that the flat cheeked axes like the GB AFA tend to glance off a lot easier or at least that's what mine did. Can't bring myself to get rid of it yet.

Boys axe. vintage or new Council. The Forest service edition is nice.

I own a GB scandi as well a GB small forest axe and have never had this issue. In thinking it over, I don't see how the geometry an inch or more behind the edge (high center line or flat) could affect whether the axe bites or glances - Really feel like edge sharpness, wood density and angle of impact are going to be the only real factors there...

Personally, I love my GBs and think them to be great (albeit overpriced) tools, so long as you're aware of their limitations. They're very light and portable, downright amazing for carving/bushcraft when compared to high-centerline axes and are pretty reasonable for felling and limbing the sort of trees I'd expect to take on whilst camping or backpacking (nothing past 7-8", generally dead evergreens and I always carry a collapsible 24" bucksaw for sectioning). I've never had any problems with chips or rolls either, save the time I let a friend use my SFA and he immediately split some firewood on bare rocky ground (It only suffered a slight roll, but I don't loan out my sharp tools anymore :mad:).

The only negatives for me is that the profile does have a higher tendency to "stick" as already mentioned (though good hit placement can somewhat mitigate the problem and I've never had it stick so badly that a slight pump didn't dislodge the bit) and it's pretty god-awful for splitting any rounds that are relatively thick and/or knotty.

Personally, I think I might sell off or trade out my small forest axe in favor of a wildlife hatchet. I've come to realize the main reason I like the SFA is for the bushcraft/carving and it's too much of a compromise for everything else. A flat faced hatchet to strap onto my belt would fit the role better, so long as I have my 3lb jersey pattern keen kutter on a 28" straight octagonal and bucksaw on my pack. Two axes isn't excessive! :p

...So far I've come down to the G.B. Scandinavian Forest Axe, G.B. American Felling Axe, Wetterlings American Forest Axe, or the Wetterlings Swedish Forest Axe but I will consider any other suggestions you guys give me to look into.

So what do you guys think would be the best way to go for an axe that will handle all of my camp chores with ease but not be too large to strap onto a big hunting backpack?

Thanks Guys,
-Dylan

For your mentioned tasks, I agree with everyone here that a high-centerline convex boy's axe would work quite well. Anything that's 2-2.5 lbs on a 25-28" handle. I know the Wetterlings, while still flat-faced, are actually made with a thicker, less concave bit than GBs so that might work out great and not suffer from the same shortcomings as I've noted with the GB Scandi.

But there's nothing wrong with a new council tool boy's axe either. Pretty solid company churning out high quality axes. Or if you're up to the challenge, you could always restore a vintage axe head too - gives you a lot more choice in the type of handle to use (really loving straight octagonals now that I've tried them)
 
Last edited:
Killa I haven't found my AFA 'glancing off' either, nor does my Forest Axe.
It's probably because I've only used them on softwoods.
I could never get rid of my GB's. I love them all. Plus, my AFA and GB splitting maul were gifts from my wife :)
I use my Forest Axe, more that any other axe that I have. I love to limb with it.
But as to the OP...
I still think your best option for your task at hand is a boys axe. It's just a better all around choice for your needs IMO.
 
I own a GB scandi as well a GB small forest axe and have never had this issue. In thinking it over, I don't see how the geometry an inch or more behind the edge (high center line or flat) could affect whether the axe bites or glances - Really feel like edge sharpness, wood density and angle of impact are going to be the only real factors there...

You're probably right. I haven't used it in years and I'm (hopefully) better at chopping now. It was most likely the angle or the bit sharpness. I do find the American axes like my Kelly Perfect pop chips out better. Maybe I'm just prejudiced now as they are all I use for trailwork. To each his own.
 
You're probably right. I haven't used it in years and I'm (hopefully) better at chopping now. It was most likely the angle or the bit sharpness. I do find the American axes like my Kelly Perfect pop chips out better. Maybe I'm just prejudiced now as they are all I use for trailwork. To each his own.

Now don't get me wrong Coop. The American axes are my overall favorites by far.
My favorite axe is my Collins Legitimus Connecticut.
If I was doing trail work I'd choose that or even maybe one if my DB's.
I have a nice KP Jersey that I've had or way too long without hafting it, so I can't comment on its attributes besides how pretty she is :p
I really love my two Plumb Jerseys. Im sure that they would make fine axes for trail work too.
I have some really nice axe heads to haft real soon. Then my favorites may change ;)
That being said, the Legitimus that I have with the original handle is just simply a pleasure to swing. The balance is the best that I have ever had the pleasure to use :)

Also going back to the GB AFA...
I've only used it on softwoods, which is what it's designed for, so on hardwoods it may glance with every blow and just be a pain in the a$$ to use.
Pretty much all we have up here is softwoods, that's one of the reasons that I wanted one, plus she's pretty too :D
 
Personally, I think I might sell off or trade out my small forest axe in favor of a wildlife hatchet. I've come to realize the main reason I like the SFA is for the bushcraft/carving and it's too much of a compromise for everything else. A flat faced hatchet to strap onto my belt would fit the role better, so long as I have my 3lb jersey pattern keen kutter on a 28" straight octagonal and bucksaw on my pack. Two axes isn't excessive! :p

Spoken like a true Northwesterner!
waytogo.gif
 
I'm also in the arid west (Utah) and for these same purposes I carry a sweet little collins house axe I fixed up. Many of the tasks you describe might fit a hatchet better, but if you go after a 15" pine with a hatchet you are going to have a very long day. The council boys axe mentioned above is a nice choice, I want one. And carry a hatchet too :) and 3 knives and a bow saw, and a spliting wedge. Better yet, take all of the above and a six pack and put them in your buddies pack.
 
The council boys axe mentioned above is a nice choice, I want one. And carry a hatchet too :) and 3 knives and a bow saw, and a spliting wedge. Better yet, take all of the above and a six pack and put them in your buddies pack.

I can't think of a better solution than this.

I got nuthin'.
shrug.gif
 
That's funny Forester33 :) I think I'm going to take the advice given to me and order a Council Tool Axe. But since they're so much less expensive than the GB's I was considering paying for, I may as well buy two axes, right? :rolleyes:
 
Initially it was just a joke, but now I'm seriously considering buying three of them just because of the great price point... looking at the 18" Hudson Bay for small stuff and for strapping to my pack for hunting/long hikes, the Boy's Axe for general work and to leave in the Jeep for those "just in case" situations, and a 36" Jersey pattern for the big stuff. Three axes shipped to my door for $110 it looks like!! :thumbup:
 
Initially it was just a joke, but now I'm seriously considering buying three of them just because of the great price point... looking at the 18" Hudson Bay for small stuff and for strapping to my pack for hunting/long hikes, the Boy's Axe for general work and to leave in the Jeep for those "just in case" situations, and a 36" Jersey pattern for the big stuff. Three axes shipped to my door for $110 it looks like!! :thumbup:

Not a bad assortment for sure. Those are probably my most used axe sizes too (19" GB SFA, 25" GB Scandi, and a 32" 3.5lb Keen Kutter - though the 3lb Jersey on a 28" straight octagonal might be taking its place). Only advice I have is to consider ordering from a place that will hand pick ones with good grain for you. That and maybe consider a shorter handle (32"?) for the Jersey... really depends on your height and what you're wanting to do with it though.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top