Noob V Etching unit

H

harrington

Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Messages
65
How you going guys,

I bought an Ester etching unit about 6 months ago and while i can get consumables here I don't know nuth'n about how to work it.
It used to belong to a well respected maker hear in Australia.

My questions are,

(1) It has 3 way toggle switch with off in the middle the other positions are on 1 and on 2 which one is AC and which is DC.
(2) Which do I use first AC or DC.
(3) Does the wheely knob thing ajust the level of volts going to the pad.

Thanks for the help.

Jamie.
 
I dont know the unit. What i would suggest is go to position1 and try etch, if it burns into the steel its your etching setting. (if you run your fingernail over the area etched and its eaten away the steel, its etching) If it only makes a mark on the steel then its the marking setting. You must etch then mark.

The adjustable knob sounds like its for voltage setting. Play around with the voltage until you get the etch depth you desire.

I pressume you have the stencils and the necessary liquids, etc.
 
harrington said:
How you going guys,

I bought an Ester etching unit about 6 months ago and while i can get consumables here I don't know nuth'n about how to work it.
It used to belong to a well respected maker hear in Australia.

My questions are,

(1) It has 3 way toggle switch with off in the middle the other positions are on 1 and on 2 which one is AC and which is DC.
(2) Which do I use first AC or DC.
(3) Does the wheely knob thing ajust the level of volts going to the pad.

Thanks for the help.

Jamie.
Click to expand...

Jamie

I can only offer general electro etch comments.

The DC setting is for etching, positive lead do the knife blade, negative lead to the electrode with the pad.

The AC setting is for marking, leaves a nice black surface oxide, brown on austenitic stainless.

I would guess the wheely knob thingy does adjust the voltage, Put a volt meter across the leads and watch it while you turn the dial.
There are different electrolytes for different steels, most will work on any steel but some produce better results on specific steels.


Normally you would etch for what ever length of time you determine to give you the depth you want, then without moving the electrode, move the switch to the AC position to deposit a layer of black in the bottom of the etched design to make it stand out.

Jim Arbuckle
 
Thanks for the help guys.
Im in the process of getting the stensils and etching fluid.
The links provided have been very helpfull.

Thanks again Jamie.
 
Jamie,

I don't know where you're getting your stencils and electrolyte, but I got my electrolyte from these guys. I'd already bought my stencils from Marking Methods.
http://www.trendmarking.com.au/

And for you Stew, I know they do stencils, but I have no idea on cost, but it would be worth a call.
 
Stewart,

I will go through Trendmarking for stencils.
I was quoted $32.00 for 9 stencils on a 60mmx225mm sheet. Jan (john) from trendmarking said you can get 2000 to 3000 etches from this.

Jamie.
 
Hmmm,

I just received my Bottle of Universal Etching Ground. It took me 5 months. I thought it will be better than nail polish to etch.

However I am envious/impressed/pissed off with wax/pissed off with nail polish (the only benefit was stealing my 16 yo son's black nail polish:eek: ) with "John Foxwell".

Thanks for your info Jamie.

John could you send me an email

jels@iprimus.com.au

I note that your email address closed.

So I get some solution and get some stencils from this place.

As I understand it an old 12v car battery or an mobile charger can work?

Stewart
 
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