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CagedSuperman

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Dec 14, 2021
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This year I’ve started knife making. And some things come out and some don’t. But I recently just tried 80crv2 and I think I hit the nail on the head. I posted two videos on Instagram of nail cutting and cutting through a brick with a hammering on the knife. Could anyone check out my page and give me some feedback?
A quick question too, so after heat treatment the file skates across pretty easily, after tempering shouldn’t the file catch a little since the steel is technically being softened?
[redacted]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry, I don't do social media, it pisses me off... However!
It depends on how hard you got it, and how hot you tempered it. It's entirely possible that you're blade is harder than your file. Especially if you have cheap files like me!
Have you heard of the "Brass Rod Test"?

Basically, take a brass rod and clamp it in a vice or glue it to a board or something.
Sharpen your knife.
Lay the edge of your blade on the brass rod, like you were sharpening it, then press the edge into the brass.
The edge should bend around the brass, then spring back when you let go. If it stays deformed, then it's too soft, if it chips is to hard.

Here's the first video on YouTube when I searched "brass rod test"

 
A.McPherson said:
Sorry, I don't do social media, it pisses me off... However!
It depends on how hard you got it, and how hot you tempered it. It's entirely possible that you're blade is harder than your file. Especially if you have cheap files like me!
Have you heard of the "Brass Rod Test"?

Basically, take a brass rod and clamp it in a vice or glue it to a board or something.
Sharpen your knife.
Lay the edge of your blade on the brass rod, like you were sharpening it, then press the edge into the brass.
The edge should bend around the brass, then spring back when you let go. If it stays deformed, then it's too soft, if it chips is to hard.

Here's the first video on YouTube when I searched "brass rod test"

Click to expand...
Well I quickly realized that 80crv2 needs to be hotter than 1095. I got it to non magnetic, let it cool a few seconds and quenched it. Temper cycle is 400° for two hours twice. I can’t even try the brass rod test because I can’t get a super fine edge on it. I spent 3 hours just getting an edge. Maybe after I take the edge to my grinder I’ll get a finer edge. My sharpener is not the best.
 
the correct temp is above non magnetic. does the edge pass the brass rod test ? another good test is to chop through a 2x4 twice. if it still shaves hair, you did good.
 
john april said:
the correct temp is above non magnetic. does the edge pass the brass rod test ? another good test is to chop through a 2x4 twice. if it still shaves hair, you did good.
Click to expand...
Like I said up top, I have to put the edge on the grinder because it’s not fine enough to shave with. My sharpener is not the greatest. I cuts through a nail, no chips, cut off brick, no chips. If I could post a video I would.
 
john april said:
the correct temp is above non magnetic. does the edge pass the brass rod test ? another good test is to chop through a 2x4 twice. if it still shaves hair, you did good.
Click to expand...
When I have a finer edge I’ll try the brass rod. I had a larger knife that I tried that test on with 1095. It past half way the other half did not. But that’s because of my makeshift forge was not deep enough to get the whole blade soaking.
 
Use Imjur to post photos in the thread,

There are dozens of posts on BF that show you how to do that.

No we aren't' going to go chasing your social media posts to see your photos.
You posting that address here without a paid membership is a violation of the rules that you should read.

Read through the sticky threads. There's lots of info there for you.
Find some way of temperature control.
 
12345678910 said:
Use Imjur to post photos in the thread,

There are dozens of posts on BF that show you how to do that.

No we aren't' going to go chasing your social media posts to see your photos.
You posting that address here without a paid membership is a violation of the rules that you should read.

Read through the sticky threads. There's lots of info there for you.
Find some way of temperature control.
Click to expand...
“We aren’t going to be chasing your social media “ yet in your account it has the very place to put your twatter and Facebook account……. Kid
 
CagedSuperman said:
“We aren’t going to be chasing your social media “ yet in your account it has the very place to put your twatter and Facebook account……. Kid
Click to expand...
If you want feedback, post the photos. Make it easy for us.

Off hand, why such wide blade with such short bevels ?
Thin cuts.

Get your bevel angles down to three degrees or so.
It looks like you have thirty or forty degree angles, like axes do.

Get real info on heat treating, control the temperatures, or just send out for proper heat treat.

Improve your fit and finish.


read the count's thread, lots of info there.
 
CagedSuperman said:
This year I’ve started knife making. And some things come out and some don’t. But I recently just tried 80crv2 and I think I hit the nail on the head. I posted two videos on Instagram of nail cutting and cutting through a brick with a hammering on the knife. Could anyone check out my page and give me some feedback?
A quick question too, so after heat treatment the file skates across pretty easily, after tempering shouldn’t the file catch a little since the steel is technically being softened?
[redacted]
Click to expand...
Just a few pointers that may help you out. If you don’t have one already, get yourself a caliper. They are a very handy tool to have in your shop. Your thickness behind the edge, which is about 1/4” up from your edge, should be about .03 before heat treating. If you are having a difficult time getting your blade sharp, I bet your TBE is too thick. I suggest cutting cardboard, rope, or as already mentioned, the brass rod test to see if blade is properly heat treated.
 
TheEdge01 said:
Just a few pointers that may help you out. If you don’t have one already, get yourself a caliper. They are a very handy tool to have in your shop. Your thickness behind the edge, which is about 1/4” up from your edge, should be about .03 before heat treating. If you are having a difficult time getting your blade sharp, I bet your TBE is too thick. I suggest cutting cardboard, rope, or as already mentioned, the brass rod test to see if blade is properly heat treated.
Click to expand...
The stock is only 1/8”. The main grind/bevel is at a 7° angle and the secondary bevel/cutting edge is at a 30° angle
 
CagedSuperman said:
The stock is only 1/8”. The main grind/bevel is at a 7° angle and the secondary bevel/cutting edge is at a 30° angle
Click to expand...
Using 1/8" stock gives you the opportunity to develop a good edge geometry. If your steel is an inch from edge to spine the bevel angle per side would be best ground @ 21/2 to 3 degrees. That is per side. Using this acute an angle will result in a thinner cross section and as mentioned above, a thinner thickness behind the edge which has a great deal to do with cutting ability.

There is a great deal to learn if your goal is to become a competent knife maker. Don't make the mistake of leaping ahead where you will miss out on many of the small steps that contribute to success in this craft. Regards, Fred
 
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