Noobie Bandsaw Questions

S

Satson

Joined
Jan 12, 2019
Messages
1
Hi guys, I hope this is well received. I tried going through the stickied threads but some of the links are dead, now. I think I'd much rather just talk to some of you, instead!

My Dad used to browse the forum here all the time although I'm not sure if he posted. He loved knives and wouldn't stop buying them. Years ago he became determined to start making his own and began amassing the basic tools to cut blanks and shape handles. Unfortunately, my Dad passed two and a half years back and never got to make a single knife. Sometimes I think he liked collecting supplies for a hobby better than actually using them!

This past December I found myself hungry for a new hobby, and thought it might be a good way to honor him if I gathered up his old tools and put them to use. I always wanted to do this with him, but never got the chance.

So now I find myself a little in over my head. I watched a handful of videos, used some basic knowledge, and filled my workbench with a bench grinder, belt grinder, my Grandpa's drill press, and a benchvice. I bought some construction steel from Home Depot and quickly realized grinding was not going to suit me for cutting practice blanks given the noise and horrid air particulate. So, poking around, I found some people suggesting bandsaws or their portable counterparts. I bought a Milwuakee M12 Subcompact bandsaw and had some great results with the Home Depot steel (using the 18 TPI blade that came with it).

However, when I finally purchased some annealed 1095, I found the banbdsaw blade barely scratching the billet. I'm just not sure what direction to head from here! I believe I may need a lower TPI blade? Or perhaps did I make a goof and spend too little money on too small a bandsaw? Before I waste anymore money I'd love to get your opinion on this.

Thanks for reading, and I hope to learn a lot here!
 
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you need Carbide tipped blades the 14tpi is fine , Look for Lennox brand and Norse also makes a great product!!I always got my best results on the slow speed for this. Get an old candle to dress the blade every few inches . It will help... Stay safe & Have Fun!
 
I've had luck with the Olsen blade from amazon. With 14 tip you need to go slow so you don't lose teeth. You can get dull blades that won't cut steel at all.

I've never tried the blades suggested above but they come highly recommended here so I think it's a great suggestion.
 
PS sorry about your father. I hate to hear about people not realizing their dreams. It's great that your looking to carry on. You sound like you have a whack of tools so you have a good start. You can also buy blanks, grind them and handlemail them to get started but once you get a better blade you'll be fine.

I may be like your father. I love building things and making jigs to make work easier. Often I enjoy this more than the product. When I rode motocross I used to enjoyed working on the bikes more. Probably because I sucked and always had a twisted bike to fix.
 
I agree with Robert. Your problem is likely both the saw and blade. The M12 doesn't have a lot of power and uses a very short blade (increased heat build up). It also has a very short depth-of-cut capability. If you upgrade, and stay with a porta-band, the saw he linked is a good one. I have the same one and it's been in use for over 5 years now with no issues. The equivalent Dewalt deep cut is, by all accounts, a solid choice as well. The Milwaukee blades aren't terrible, but the Lennox Bi-Metal are better IMO. I use 18 TPI. A table is a must IMO. I use the SWAG table but you could make your own if inclined.
 
Yes the Dewalt is a solid choice as is the the Swag table. I've had one for quite a while now and have cut thousands of blanks out with it, the whole family has.

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Here's my daughter cutting those up.

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I too have had the same experience as Adam. While the Milwaukee blades work, the Lennox are better. Interestingly the Milwaukee seem to come in two grades. The Home Depot ones awh they work but... I bought some from an industrial supply place once and they were far superior to the HD ones. Also 3 to the box not just 2 like HD. I use 14 tpi for cutting steel and other metals and 10 tpi for handle material.

Big advocate on this set up. It really works and is very versatile. I use this saw setup to prep handle materials, cut pin stock, bolster stock, blades, trim excess bolster and handle stock after glue up etc. Heck if you order steel from the NJ Steel Baron I even use the saw to get into his packages. Around here it gets a work out:

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https://www.instagram.com/p/BoC64sMDEDH/

Heck its even been a photo prop:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnHmR8hhyeU/
 
I forgot to mention, that I would also highly recommend a foot switch. Had a blade (Milwaukee) snap on me once. Scary as hell, but I was able to kill the power immediately with the foot switch. Here's a pic of my set-up. Foot switch was in use on another tool at the time, but this is the only shop pic I have uploaded.

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Drag Adam it's sure purty in there! I use a light bar for a on and off switch and zip tie the trigger on the saw. I mostly sit on a stool where a foot pedal wouldn't work. Breaking a blade happens and gets your attention for sure. Broken quite a few over the years. Hardly even shrug anymore.
 
Thanks Dave. I have to keep my shop clean. I hate working in a dirty, cluttered environment but also my big ol' Rott hangs out with me in there a lot. Went down to the shop and this is where I found him. Guarding the saw!

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