Norlund & Collins Hudson Bay WIP

Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
86
Just wanted to share some pictures of my current tinkerings. I bought the rusted and pitted Norlund voyageur a few years back, and finally had the time to work on it.

Here it is sitting in a vinegar bath to help loosen the rust out of the pits. You can see the very deep temper line. Don't mind the metal wedges, I don't plan to use them unless the heads come loose.

33u8qyt.jpg


Here's another angle:
16i9vg2.jpg


It came out very dark when I pulled it out the next day. This is what it looked like after brushing it with a brass bristled brush:
m1q1e.jpg


I also worked on the edge a bit and thinned the cheeks near the edge for a deeper bite. The steel feels a bit soft. From my understanding, this came out of the same factory as Collins and Mann so I assume they knew what they were doing:
20q16b8.jpg


I will try to mirror polish the edge in the future, but I was impatient and hung it on a vintage slim Collins boy's axe handle cut down to 19":
28vqgrb.jpg


Yes, dangerous length, but I really enjoy using a hatchet head on a longer handle. I've handled a Wetterlings large hunter axe (similar to GB SFA) and the head (1.5lbs) felt too bulky and heavy for the 19" handle. I thought a hatchet head would feel better balanced on a that length. Slimmer vintage handles are a pleasure to use and lightweight for the pack. Here is the Collins boy's axe I took the handle from, picked up at a flea market for $5:
34470uc.jpg


Here is the Norlund next to a Wolf Creek Forge camp hawk with a hardened poll:
8wz7es.jpg


As you can see, the hawk looks significantly smaller, but the weight feels about the same and this is why:
33cw74p.jpg


There's a lot of meat around the camp hawk's eye, which ensures that it will last after centuries of use (including throwing?!). Now I'm going to soak the Norlund head in boiled linseed oil before I start using it, which I've never done before. Can anyone recommend a duration? I'm thinking a couple weeks at least.

In a survival situation, I would take the hawk because it's so much easier to rehandle. However, I much prefer a small camp axe for practical use. The handle feels a lot better in the hand, it's overall better balanced, and the head has more cheeks for splitting.

Questions? Criticisms? Where's your hatchet head on a long handle? I would love to try one of the West Woods handles in the future.
 
Last edited:
Just wanted to share some pictures of my current tinkerings. I bought the rusted and pitted Norlund voyageur a few years back, and finally had the time to work on it.

Here it is sitting in a vinegar bath to help loosen the rust out of the pits. You can see the very deep temper line. Don't mind the metal wedges, I don't plan to use them unless the heads come loose.

33u8qyt.jpg


Here's another angle:
16i9vg2.jpg


It came out very dark when I pulled it out the next day. This is what it looked like after brushing it with a brass bristled brush:
m1q1e.jpg


I also worked on the edge a bit and thinned the cheeks near the edge for a deeper bite. The steel feels a bit soft. From my understanding, this came out of the same factory as Collins and Mann so I assume they knew what they were doing:
20q16b8.jpg


I will try to mirror polish the edge in the future, but I was impatient and hung it on a vintage slim Collins boy's axe handle cut down to 19":
28vqgrb.jpg


Yes, dangerous length, but I really enjoy using a hatchet head on a longer handle. I've handled a Wetterlings large hunter axe (similar to GB SFA) and the head (1.5lbs) felt too bulky and heavy for the 19" handle. I thought a hatchet head would feel better balanced on a that length. Slimmer vintage handles are a pleasure to use and lightweight for the pack. Here is the Council boy's axe I took the handle from, picked up at a flea market for $5:
34470uc.jpg


Here is the Norlund next to a Wolf Creek Forge camp hawk with a hardened poll:
8wz7es.jpg


As you can see, the hawk looks significantly smaller, but the weight feels about the same and this is why:
33cw74p.jpg


There's a lot of meat around the camp hawk's eye, which ensures that it will last after centuries of use (including throwing?!). Now I'm going to soak the Norlund head in boiled linseed oil before I start using it, which I've never done before. Can anyone recommend a duration? I'm thinking a couple weeks at least.

In a survival situation, I would take the hawk because it's so much easier to rehandle. However, I much prefer a small camp axe for practical use. The handle feels a lot better in the hand, it's overall better balanced, and the head has more cheeks for splitting.

Questions? Criticisms? Where's your hatchet head on a long handle? I would love to try one of the West Woods handles in the future.
Not bad.

For similar look here.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/why-buy-a-ct-pack-axe-or-gb-sfa.1511936/
 
I saw that thread, but those are mostly 1.5-1.75lb heads on 19" handles, which like I stated, feels a bit too head heavy and bulky for a pack axe in my opinion. It's surprising how much work a smaller hatchet head on a longer handle can do! I've split semi-wet 10inch rounds with these. Probably not the most efficient use of energy, but trade-offs, right?
 
Here's the Collin's boy's axe that I took the handle from. I filed it (yes, by hand) into a Michigan/hudson bay hybrid shape. I'm guessing that it started out at 2.25lbs and probably weights about 2lbs now. It has a beautiful high centerline and you can tell it was made with care. The edge is MUCH harder than the Norlund by the file test.
2irpu2s.jpg

9tptuh.jpg
5unz9h.jpg
 
nice, might be an ohio pattern though. looks like you have a hairline crack on the logo side in the middle of the cheek
 
I looked up Ohio and it doesn't quite seem to fit. Doesn't really matter, just naming convention. I like the way it looks and it will be a good user.

That's a scratch on the face. However, I did notice hairline cracks on the poll while filing. I'm not too worried because of the thickness of the poll. Does anyone know what causes this?
maaqlh.jpg
35co8z6.jpg
 
Bad heat treatment? It didn't have nearly enough mushrooming to have been damaged by someone using it as a hammer.
 
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