Normal blade wear or bad technique?

A

Alan_Gage

Joined
Nov 15, 2006
Messages
4
I'm pretty darn new to axes and after a couple disappointing attempts with cheap axes from the local hardware stores and trying to re-handle an old head I got for free I went and ordered myself a Gransfors Bruk Scandanavian Forest Axe which showed up on my doorstep today. Very nice, very sharp, and very efficient (or at least I think so).

I gave it a trial today and I don't think I did a whole lot of chopping, the biggest log was probably 4 inches across, most of it ash (I believe). I made sure to stay away from knots (and did for the most part) and I don't think it struck anything other then wood all day. I was a little surprised with how the blade looked when I was done-

axe%20blade.jpg


axe%20blade_2.jpg


Since I'm pretty new to all this I don't know if this is normal or not. I'm not freaking out about it or anything but I'd like to know if it's just what to expect or if it's poor techniqe that's causing it. Feeling the blade it doesn't feel like chips, more like it's bent over.

I haven't tried sharpening it yet and was also wondering what would be the best way to take these out and restore the sharpness. Just go over it with a stone for starters? I've played around with sharpening some older axe heads to a decent sharpness but I don't really want to screw this one up too bad.

Thanks,

Alan
 
I would sharpen it and try again. Most new axe and knife have a layer of steel that has lost it's temper during the manufacturing final grind. This layer of steel is soft and should be filed off to get to the working steel.

when you sharpen it, make sure there's no secondary grind and make the profile to look like the original grind. It should preform a lot better.

I could be wrong.

singteck
 
From my experience with Gransfors Bruk that is not normal, I've been using one of their wildlife hatchets pretty hard for just over a year now and the blade has never looked like that. The fist day i used it i really took it for a test drive and it looked like it did before i started. I think you should contact GB directly and give them the opportunity to put it right.
 
I have used the GB SFA extensively on dry red oak, dry Scots Pine, and dry White Ash. Although it gradually dulled over hours of use, it sure didn't chip like yours. It looks like too hard rather than too soft.
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I sent an e-mail to Gransfors USA today with a link to the pictures to see what they think. If I don't hear back from them in a couple days I'll give them a call.

Also to clarify I don't think I'd call what I have "chipping". I'd define chipping as pieces missing, this is more like it's bent over. All the metal still seems to be there, just not in the right spots anymore.

It still cuts better then my other axes. :)

Alan
 
Mine did the same thing when I first took it out, not that bad though but i was chopping pine logs, splitting and kindeling. It only took 15 min. or so to resharpen and it hasn't done it since. I find the razor edge they put on the bit will not stand up to heavy force but after the first sharpening everything seems fine. Try and get yourself a sharpening puck for axes they work really well.
 
Unless the manufacturer takes the trouble to do the final sharpening by hand on a water stone (or other water cooled sharpening aids) all knives and axes will show such properties. Maybe not as bad but you will find that the edge will not hold it's sharpness until you remove that layer of metal. Just a result of mass production.

singteck
 
If all the metal is still there that means the edge rolled, that's possible on a good axe, (while chipping would denote a bad heat treatment).

Rolling may happen if steel isn't hardened enough and/or too blunt. When the edge starts rolling, if you dont sharpen to quickly, just like with most damages, particularly on striking tools, it will quickly become a lot worst,
so result doesn't see too surprising too me. That may also happen if burr isn't properly taken away (which translates into blunt edge)

If you went on using a somewhat blunt axe, on hard wood (ash), without sharpening too often and with beginner's enthusiasm (been here, done that), that's not too surprising, my splitting axes have often looked like that when I used hardware store axes for extensive splitting and didn't sharpen them. Striking cross-grain is also hard on edge.

What will tell if steel was badly treated rather then badly used is how sharp was the axe at the beginning? how often was it re-sharpened?
 
All axes will show edge wear over a period of time, Chipping would concern me unless you're throwing it and you constantly overthrow and hit rocks - I've had hawks returned for that reason. We just sharpen them up and ship them back to the customer.

You should not get edge chipping just splitting wood, though. And I agree with Singtecks ascertation that it may just be a slightly untempered edge.

Sharpening pucks are cheap and they work very, very well for all tool edges.
 
I think that the axe where to high in temp when it forge so the steel can be overheated .The mark (hole) on the axe edge on the second pic are they dirt or slaggmarks ??
Cegga
 
Thanks again for the ideas. I heard back from GB today and this was their e-mail-
I cannot tell by the picture if the temper or metal has a problem. The best
is for us to replace that piece and send it back to Sweden.
Click to expand...

When I wrote them it was worded similar to my post here. Not claiming I had a problem, just asking their opinion and sending them the pictures. I didn't want to sharpen it before I heard from them in case their were continuing problems where it come into question whether or not I did the damage by incorrect sharpening. I'd be curious to know if just resharpening it would take care of the problem but if they want to warranty it who am I to argue.

I guess I'll find out for sure when I get my new one. I'll report back

Thanks again,

Alan
 
Just don't expect a fast turn around time if you send your axe back. I sent one of mine in for a chipped corner and it tooks many weeks to get it back with no communication until i asked them what the situation was. They will most likely replace it with no worries, but just don't be in a hurry to get it back.

:D
 
Thomas Linton said:
I have used the GB SFA extensively on dry red oak, dry Scots Pine, and dry White Ash. Although it gradually dulled over hours of use, it sure didn't chip like yours. It looks like too hard rather than too soft.
Click to expand...


I have had the same experience as Thomas..... my edge never looked like that:eek:
 
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